Right now i break with a 21oz. Falcon jump/break cue.What effect will taking the weight bolt out have on the hit of the cue?Any recommendations or alternatives?
cue question
- Thread starter pooljunkie73
- Start date
B
Beavis
Guest
If you take it out, make sure you replace it with a lighter one. Just taking the bolt out could change everything as far as balance.
Poolhalljunkie 73,
Some folks sell cues with weight bolts, so you can change them out.
I construct my cues with all of the wood weights in mind, [ weighing each and every piece], then come with a mid-body pin [an all thread the proper lenght and weight] that will keep the cue at the proper weight and keep the balance point perfect. If you change the so called "weight bolt", you change the, weight, balance and the over all performance of the cue.
Some folks just build cues and get the cash, and never think about how the cue will play with or without weight bolts, or how it affects the customer, much less gaining a re-peat customer.. I would never buy a cue with that option. They"do not" care. It's just about the money to them.
Think about the weight cue you want. Then test the cue if and when possible.
CUE WEIGHTS,
Not long ago, I had a call from a "high end" cuemaker. He said he was matching shafts up to a cue. [He was blending the shafts to the butt]. I thought he meant, weighing the shafts for a given weight of the ordered cue. Another words a total weight of the assembled cue, at 19.5 cue with either shaft. He said one shaft was ordered at 12.5MM and the other was ordered at 13.0 MM. I ask if he would weigh and size the shafts acordingly, . His reply, "hell" I'll send them both, ones a little lighter and smaller than the other, this makes no differance. This guy claims to be a great cue maker. Please!!!!
Both shafts should weight out the same, ever at differant sizes. Your only talking about .6 or 7 tenths or so of an oz. [ not hard to do, just takes some time weighing many, many shafts]. I weigh and mark each shaft after each cut. No big deal.
That's how I do it. This is the way it should be done in my opinion, for custom cues.
Example, 19.5 oz, cue. with a 13MM and a 12.75MM shaft. The cue butt would weigh in at about 15.7 the first shaft should top out at 3.8 oz's along with the second one, even though it's smaller than the other one........
I hope this helps you folks understand about weight "BOLTS"...
blud
Some folks sell cues with weight bolts, so you can change them out.
I construct my cues with all of the wood weights in mind, [ weighing each and every piece], then come with a mid-body pin [an all thread the proper lenght and weight] that will keep the cue at the proper weight and keep the balance point perfect. If you change the so called "weight bolt", you change the, weight, balance and the over all performance of the cue.
Some folks just build cues and get the cash, and never think about how the cue will play with or without weight bolts, or how it affects the customer, much less gaining a re-peat customer.. I would never buy a cue with that option. They"do not" care. It's just about the money to them.
Think about the weight cue you want. Then test the cue if and when possible.
CUE WEIGHTS,
Not long ago, I had a call from a "high end" cuemaker. He said he was matching shafts up to a cue. [He was blending the shafts to the butt]. I thought he meant, weighing the shafts for a given weight of the ordered cue. Another words a total weight of the assembled cue, at 19.5 cue with either shaft. He said one shaft was ordered at 12.5MM and the other was ordered at 13.0 MM. I ask if he would weigh and size the shafts acordingly, . His reply, "hell" I'll send them both, ones a little lighter and smaller than the other, this makes no differance. This guy claims to be a great cue maker. Please!!!!
Both shafts should weight out the same, ever at differant sizes. Your only talking about .6 or 7 tenths or so of an oz. [ not hard to do, just takes some time weighing many, many shafts]. I weigh and mark each shaft after each cut. No big deal.
That's how I do it. This is the way it should be done in my opinion, for custom cues.
Example, 19.5 oz, cue. with a 13MM and a 12.75MM shaft. The cue butt would weigh in at about 15.7 the first shaft should top out at 3.8 oz's along with the second one, even though it's smaller than the other one........
I hope this helps you folks understand about weight "BOLTS"...
blud
Thanks for the help guys.That was a very informative post Blud, i won't take it out, i'll wait to try a lighter break cue.
Thanks folks,
I am just trying to help the pool playing public, understand about cues and explain the inter workings of cues, along with things about pool in general. We all can learn at any age.
There is a lot more to building quality cues than what meets the eye. Not everyone goes in depth or too the lenghts I do, when building cues.
As I said before, some are in it for the cash only. Yes, guys, I do make money, but the quality comes first. If you have a quality product, the cash will follow.
blud
I am just trying to help the pool playing public, understand about cues and explain the inter workings of cues, along with things about pool in general. We all can learn at any age.
There is a lot more to building quality cues than what meets the eye. Not everyone goes in depth or too the lenghts I do, when building cues.
As I said before, some are in it for the cash only. Yes, guys, I do make money, but the quality comes first. If you have a quality product, the cash will follow.
blud
I loved my Bludworth Sneaky Pete that I had years ago. It was definitely one of the best playing cues I've ever had. I now play with a Tim Scruggs/Predator shaft and love it. Blud, upon request will you fit a Predator shaft to one of your cues. I'm not doubting the playability of your own shaft, but for a person that is used to the Predator and likes the hit, could/would you do that if they ordered a cue from you? Thanks.