Cue questions

[Surly]

My husband and I have decided to buy some cues, and a I have a few questions. I had decided on a McDermott MG2 until I saw that it had a wood to wood joint.

-Didn't I read somewhere that a wood to wood joint should be avoided?

-Should I switch the tip to a Moori?

-Do I need a cue cube or other such device to 'prepare' my tip for play?

-How do you say Lucasi? :embarrassed2: Is it like Posse, or is it like Stacy?

 

[spliced]

My husband and I have decided to buy some cues, and a I have a few questions. I had decided on a McDermott MG2 until I saw that it had a wood to wood joint.

-Didn't I read somewhere that a wood to wood joint should be avoided?

-Should I switch the tip to a Moori?

-Do I need a cue cube or other such device to 'prepare' my tip for play?

-How do you say Lucasi? :embarrassed2: Is it like Posse, or is it like Stacy?

Wood to wood joints are very popular and do not need to be avoided. Many prefer them. McDermott makes an excellent joint.

Use the tip that comes with your shaft at first. Try a moori tip and other tips on other peoples cues before deciding on your own preference. You may like the single layered tip that comes on your shaft better than a layered tip like a Moori.

Lucasi cues were named after the owner, Jim Lucas. I think its posse.:grin:

 

[Surly]

I see...

I've heard nothing but good about McDermott...

I'll have to reconsider. Again.

 

[StevenPWaldon]

Fullsplice summed it up pretty well. If you don't have access to a friend with a Moori tip, don't sweat it. It sounds like you're pretty new to cues as it is, so anything that you'll get will be perfectly fine. If for some reason the tip isn't satisfying you, then go ahead and change it. Otherwise, any cue from a reputable manufacturer (McD, Joss, Schon, Lucasi, etc. etc.) will be more than adequate for a long time.

Joints are very much overrated in terms of objective playability. Give 5 different cues/joints to any pro-level player, and they will run out regardless of whether the joint is phenolic, wood, stainless, ivory, etc.

Posse.

My husband and I have decided to buy some cues, and a I have a few questions. I had decided on a McDermott MG2 until I saw that it had a wood to wood joint.

-Didn't I read somewhere that a wood to wood joint should be avoided?

-Should I switch the tip to a Moori?

-Do I need a cue cube or other such device to 'prepare' my tip for play?

-How do you say Lucasi? :embarrassed2: Is it like Posse, or is it like Stacy?

 

[Cornerman]

-Didn't I read somewhere that a wood to wood joint should be avoided?.

You probably read that from a manufacturer who doesn't make a wood-to-wood joint.

If it helps, even my break stick is a threaded wood joint like the McDermott has.

--Should I switch the tip to a Moori?

The stock McDermott tip is pretty good usually. Ask again when it's time to change it. Normally, the answer is that you don't need to change to a Moori. You might want to, but you don't need to.

-Do I need a cue cube or other such device to 'prepare' my tip for play?

Maybe. I'd go with a tapper and roll the tip, as opposed to scuffing or tapping. Scuffing will only tear down your tip faster than you need to.

-How do you say Lucasi? :embarrassed2: Is it like Posse, or is it like Stacy?

Neither posse or stacey. LOL!!!!

I have no idea. The guy who owns the company is Jim Lucas. So I say Lucas with an 'ee' sound on the end with the accent on the first sylablle.. That would be the Latin way. LOL!!! Not because that's what it is, but because I think he's trying to make it exotic sounding, so I rebel and make it sound not-so-exotic.

--------------------------------------
Brachauchenius Williston 1903 "short neck"

brak-aw-KEEN-ee-uhs (Gr. brakhys "short" + Gr. aukhen "neck" + -ius) (m) named to indicate "the shortest-neck plesiosaur known" at the time, with only 11 very short neck vertebrae in addition to the atlas/axis, in a neck only about 75% as long as the skull. The cervical vertebrae lack the ventral foramina (openings) found on most other plesiosaur vertebrae and support single-headed ribs (Pliosaurus had doubled-headed cervical ribs). The skull is distinctive for its broad, triangular, mosasaur-like shape, ending in a point, unlike other large pliosaurs such as Liopleurodon and Pliosaurus, which have skulls that taper abruptly in front of the nostrils into a narrow blunt snout. The large teeth have striations that branch toward the root, unlike the straight grooves on the teeth of Jurassic pliosaurs. Known from three nearly complete skulls with mandibles, and two partial skeletons (the holotype (USNM 4989) preserves 35 presacral vertebrae with ribs). Brachauchenius is a very large form (estimated to reach up to 11 m. (36.5 ft.) long based on a 1.53 m. skull (FHSM VP321)), and thus one of the last of the great mega-predator pliosaurs, dating from the Cenomanian-Turonian (early Late Cretaceous).

Vertebrae: 13 cervicals / ?2 pectorals / 20+ dorsals
Length: (estimated) up to 11 m. (36.5 ft.); skull: up to 1.53 m. (5 ft.)); mandible: up to 1.84 m (6.1 ft.)

Type Species: Brachauchenius lucasi [LOO-ka-sie] Williston 1903: for Frederick Augustus Lucas (1852-1929), at the U.S. National Museum (Smithsonian) "who has does much valuable work in American paleontology." Pliosauroidea Brachaucheniidae Late Cretaceous (Cenomanian- Turonian) NA.

-------------------------------------------------------------

Fred

 

[Surly]

Thanks, fellas. I'm set now.

 

[pooltchr]

For the record, the people at Cue & Case pronounce it
Lou-Kah-See with emphasis on the second sylable.

Steve

 

[mullyman]

I'm going to agree with everyone that has posted so far and I'd like to add that the tip doesn't matter at this point. I'm assuming that you are new to the game and new to cues so at this point in your career you probably wouldn't notice a difference between a LePro or a Moori so sticking with what is on there should be fine........unless you're unlucky enough to get one with a bad tip on it in which case you probably wouldn't notice that either. I'd let a higher level player take a look at your tip after you have a few hours under it.
MULLY

It's pronounced just as pooltchr says; Lou-kah-see

 

[Nineballchamp]

McD

My recommendation to you would to buy an "ultimate tip tool" for shaping, burnishing and tapping. I use mine every day for general tip maintenance. Who ever said wood to wood is bad, is well, frankly smoking crack. The only thing I prefer over wood to wood is ivory to wood . Stick with it and then try to hit some with a metal joint and you will see what people are talking about as far as feel and responsiveness goes. In my opinion, the "feel" is greatest with a wood to wood joint. Ultimately, you have made the right choice.

 

[mullyman]

My recommendation to you would to buy an "ultimate tip tool" for shaping, burnishing and tapping. I use mine every day for general tip maintenance. Who ever said wood to wood is bad, is well, frankly smoking crack. The only thing I prefer over wood to wood is ivory to wood . Stick with it and then try to hit some with a metal joint and you will see what people are talking about as far as feel and responsiveness goes. In my opinion, the "feel" is greatest with a wood to wood joint. Ultimately, you have made the right choice.

Ivory to wood? I don't think I've ever seen that one.
MULLY

 

[Nineballchamp]

ivory joint

You've never heard of an ivory joint screwing into a wood shaft? Hmmmmm, well..

 

[brilliance]

hi

McDermott is using Triangle tips by default. Moori tips are on their high performance shafts.

 

[softshot]

I had decided on a McDermott MG2 until I saw that it had a wood to wood joint.

I have an M64E a little more expensive than the MG2 but I flat out love it.. free lifetime maintenance anything goes wrong including tips wrap ferrules fixed for shipping cost forever..

if your shaft warps they replace it for free forever..

your choice is sound and meets my personal recomendation for a first cue...

pay more than $100 get something made of wood from a reputable manufacturer ..

 

[mullyman]

You've never heard of an ivory joint screwing into a wood shaft? Hmmmmm, well..

An ivory joint screw? The screw is ivory? No, never heard of one like that.

We may be crossing lines on what we mean here. In your original post you said "ivory to wood." which means that the joint screw is ivory and it goes into a wood threaded hole. I've just always been under the impression when we're talking about joints (wood to wood, steel to brass, etc...) that we're talking about the screw itself and not the collar. Am I wrong on that?
MULLY

 

[Jallan]

An ivory joint screw? The screw is ivory? No, never heard of one like that.

We may be crossing lines on what we mean here. In your original post you said "ivory to wood." which means that the joint screw is ivory and it goes into a wood threaded hole. I've just always been under the impression when we're talking about joints (wood to wood, steel to brass, etc...) that we're talking about the screw itself and not the collar. Am I wrong on that?
MULLY

Butt material to shaft material is my understanding. The pin is thrown in after. Wood to wood with a 3/8x 11 steel pin. At least thats how I know it to be.

 

[Hail Mary Shot]

one more thing Surly. careful on handling your cue. you dont wan't any dents or warping on it only after a month's use. don't put and whip it just anywhere and avoid those low table lights. lastly, don't put too much grip or pressure while holding it at the shaft end, as if you are bending it unconsciously. have it secured as to avoid dropping it.

 

[nthamix]

ivory to wood

An ivory joint screw? The screw is ivory? No, never heard of one like that.

ivory joint + wood shaft = ivory to wood... i think that's what he was saying...


B.

 

[Cornerman]

An ivory joint screw? The screw is ivory? No, never heard of one like that.

He was talking about a standard ivory joint, which is an ivory collar, flat-faced joint. That flat-faced joint is what is known as wood-to-wood in the pool world. I know, it's always been an odd misnomer.

But, in case you thought you were thinking that he was saying something that didn't exist (ivory screw), Jerry McWorter's collection cues (Amboyna Retrospective being the first) all feature ivory pins.

Fred

 

[mullyman]

He was talking about a standard ivory joint, which is an ivory collar, flat-faced joint. That flat-faced joint is what is known as wood-to-wood in the pool world. I know, it's always been an odd misnomer.

But, in case you thought you were thinking that he was saying something that didn't exist (ivory screw), Jerry McWorter's collection cues (Amboyna Retrospective being the first) all feature ivory pins.

Fred

Oddly enough when I hear someone say wood to wood joint I picture a wood pin and a wood thread.....then again if I really think about that I haven't seen a wood pin on anything other than a 3 cushion cue in a long time.....and definitely not on a McDermott. hehe!!

It was just when he said ivory to wood it struck me as odd that a cue would have an ivory screw.........and I'm sure those McWorter's aren't meant to be played with on a regular basis. hehe!!
MULLY

 

[Cornerman]

Oddly enough when I hear someone say wood to wood joint I picture a wood pin and a wood thread.....then again if I really think about that I haven't seen a wood pin on anything other than a 3 cushion cue in a long time.....and definitely not on a McDermott. hehe!!

I'm with you on this. But, the pool world is bigger than you and me.

I hear people describe the wooden pin exactly as that: Wooden pin. Most of the billiard cues have the wooden pin threaded out of the shaft. However, Kyle Van Den Bosch of Mariposa Cues has the wooden pin out of the butt(see attached). It seems to work for him. I'd be scared.

It was just when he said ivory to wood it struck me as odd that a cue would have an ivory screw.........and I'm sure those McWorter's aren't meant to be played with on a regular basis. hehe!!
MULLY

Surprisingly, that ivory pin seemed more durable than a wooden pin. I wouldn't be surprised if he or someone didn't start making a normal playing cue with one. http://mcwortercues.com/pg_amboyna_collection.html#

Fred