Cue shaft and butt cutter

macguy

macguy

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
The saw machine seems to be a choice of many cue makers and It has me tempted to build one. I now use a 1/2 inch Porter Cable router with a 1 1/4 x 14 flute Woodruff (key seat) cutter. I never see a mention of this set up by cue makers. I can only speak for myself and say it produces a cut so smooth you could play with the shaft. Except for the noise of the router, ( mine runs in a sound proofed room anyway so it doesn't bother me), I think anyone would be happy with the result. Has anyone used this set up or are now using this set up also? I tried some different size cutters over the years and decided on that size. I think the weight of the cutter (it's pretty heavy 4 ounces) also adds a little fly wheel effect that adds to the smoothness of the cut. For those who like to refer to cuts per minute, this one produces, 350,000 cpm, even more then the saw machine if it even matters.
Below is a link to an example of this kind of cutter, I found on the net to show.
http://www.discount-tools.com/4375.cfm
 
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I wish those cutters were available in 1/4" shank. The only advantage the saw would have is the diameter, as far as the cut goes. You can run a faster feed with the saw machine because of the large diameter of the blade. You have more cutting surface because of the 10" diameter. Find those with a 1/4" shank and I would sure try one. Over $100 bucks is expensive for a bit though.
 
cueman said:
I wish those cutters were available in 1/4" shank. The only advantage the saw would have is the diameter, as far as the cut goes. You can run a faster feed with the saw machine because of the large diameter of the blade. You have more cutting surface because of the 10" diameter. Find those with a 1/4" shank and I would sure try one. Over $100 bucks is expensive for a bit though.
Click to expand...

The price of the one I showed is just what I found on the net as an example. I use the HSS my self that only cost about $25. You can make a few dozen cuts before it needs to be sharpened. I have several and I always have a sharp one to use. I have a jig to sharpen them, it only takes a few minutes. I am sure they come in 1/4 inch shank. I buy mine from MSC.
 
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cueman said:
I wish those cutters were available in 1/4" shank. The only advantage the saw would have is the diameter, as far as the cut goes. You can run a faster feed with the saw machine because of the large diameter of the blade.
Click to expand...

Chris, Here is a photo of the 2" 6 tooth saw blade I use to rough shape butts and shafts.
They come in a varity of thicknesses.
It will take down a 1.5" to 1.35" in one pass.
With the router running 25,000 rpm It gets 150,000 cuts per min. and leaves a very smooth surface.
 
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Joseph Cues said:
http://www.discount-tools.com/ful-2450-58.cfm
These would even be better they can be mounted on a router and if they came thicker.
Come on Chris, pull some strings. :D
Click to expand...
Joey, mah boy...
Saw...

Click on the slitting link with the little triangle to the left of it (not the triangle, just the slitting link) and pick what size you want/teeth/width/ arbor size blah blah blah. It's a buffet lol

Thanks,

Jon
 
WilleeCue said:
Chris, Here is a photo of the 2" 6 tooth saw blade I use to rough shape butts and shafts.
They come in a varity of thicknesses.
It will take down a 1.5" to 1.35" in one pass.
With the router running 25,000 rpm It gets 150,000 cuts per min. and leaves a very smooth surface.
Click to expand...
William,

I use one of those for the rough cuts also, but with a 1/4" kerf lol, thing is a monster, can cut anything, i've been using a three flute for the finer cuts, but i am going to get a thinner 6 wing (thin, so it doesn't move as much air, which on the finish cut of a shaft, could push it off, which is not good...) Post some more pics of your cues in the Gallery :)

Thanks,

Jon
 
BiG_JoN said:
Joey, mah boy...
Saw...

Click on the slitting link with the little triangle to the left of it (not the triangle, just the slitting link) and pick what size you want/teeth/width/ arbor size blah blah blah. It's a buffet lol

Thanks,

Jon
Click to expand...
Gracias Senor.
I'll check em out. They are HSS though. But, I'll check em for cutting collet slots.
 
Joseph Cues said:
Gracias Senor.
I'll check em out. They are HSS though. But, I'll check em for cutting collet slots.
Click to expand...
I'll find the Carbide ones and get the link to you later...
Yes they would be great for that, better than a band saw... :rolleyes:

Thanks,

Jon
 
WilleeCue said:
Chris, Here is a photo of the 2" 6 tooth saw blade I use to rough shape butts and shafts.
They come in a varity of thicknesses.
It will take down a 1.5" to 1.35" in one pass.
With the router running 25,000 rpm It gets 150,000 cuts per min. and leaves a very smooth surface.
Click to expand...

Where could you get that cutter Will?
I saw something similar being sold at Cuecomponents...
Any other source for it?
 
((VH)) said:
Thanks Willee.
mmmmm a little bit too pricy at CueComp....
I'm gonna try out one with a 1/4kerf and maybe crank it up to 31,000 rpm and a very slow feed rate... should be smooth enuf
Click to expand...

What I do is increase the feed speed until the router starts loading down then back off a bit. (3/4 HP router).
Makes real smooth cuts. Slow dont always relate to smooth.
With the higher RPM you should get a very smooth cut.
Just watch those fingers! <g>
 
WilleeCue said:
What I do is increase the feed speed until the router starts loading down then back off a bit. (3/4 HP router).
Makes real smooth cuts. Slow dont always relate to smooth.
With the higher RPM you should get a very smooth cut.
Just watch those fingers! <g>
Click to expand...

It might be a good idea to brightly paint the non-cutting portions of large diameter tooling such as these or sawblades. You can see the edge of the tool much better.

Do you guys have any guards on your machines? I will definetely be putting one on mine when I build it. Safety is obviously important, but especially more so on larger diamter blades.
 
iusedtoberich said:
It might be a good idea to brightly paint the non-cutting portions of large diameter tooling such as these or sawblades. You can see the edge of the tool much better.

Do you guys have any guards on your machines? I will definetely be putting one on mine when I build it. Safety is obviously important, but especially more so on larger diamter blades.
Click to expand...

Yes, just a piece of Plexiglas mounted so I can't accidentally stick my hand where it don't belong. That cutter mounted on a router is a "VERY" dangerous set up. I have seen quite a few guys doing cue work that looked like the never heard of shop safety. Dennis Searing cut half of his finger doing cue work.
 
Guys, a plexiglass guard is a must.
I know one guy here who took the guard off his taper machine.
He was cutting one day and someone came in to his shop.
He turned around and fed his left hand to the cutter.
 
iusedtoberich said:
It might be a good idea to brightly paint the non-cutting portions of large diameter tooling such as these or sawblades. You can see the edge of the tool much better.

Do you guys have any guards on your machines? I will definetely be putting one on mine when I build it. Safety is obviously important, but especially more so on larger diamter blades.
Click to expand...


You also have to be very careful with those fly cutters. I used to have half of one of those stuck in my wall from before I had my saw machine. A solid concrete wall! When they come apart, they'll destroy anything in their path. Some are not rated for "router speed" and should not be used! I'll stick to my saw machine. You get over 250,000 CPM and the 12" radius give a narrower "angle of attack" and better results.

Sherm
 
Joseph Cues said:
Guys, a plexiglass guard is a must.
I know one guy here who took the guard off his taper machine.
He was cutting one day and someone came in to his shop.
He turned around and fed his left hand to the cutter.
Click to expand...
Yeah, i heard about that,
All i have is the lexan "guard" that doubles as the holder for the vacuum line, I was testing the angle of taper (had to reset it...) and cutting a maple handle (as a test piece) taking off .125, and there might have been a few specs of dust :D. Beat that Joey... LOL
Oh yeah Joey... My tapering system was built on the off chance that i might have to taper steel... I might make a cue out of mild steel to see if it would do it lol, that would be one hell of a breaker :)

Thanks,

Jon :p
 
WilleeCue said:
Chris, Here is a photo of the 2" 6 tooth saw blade I use to rough shape butts and shafts.
They come in a varity of thicknesses.
It will take down a 1.5" to 1.35" in one pass.
With the router running 25,000 rpm It gets 150,000 cuts per min. and leaves a very smooth surface.
Click to expand...

Why use blades and not spiral flute mills(end mills or routers)? Is this the same style blade used for finish cuts?
 
slot

((VH)) said:
Where could you get that cutter Will?
I saw something similar being sold at Cuecomponents...
Any other source for it?
Click to expand...

Willie's picture,
The tools proper name, is a slot cutter. most wood-working stores will have it.

blud
 
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