Let's go a little deeper here to get a better visual of your problem.
All Gen2 Predator-built shafts use a phenolic insert for the 'big' pin.
The Radial pin falls into this category.
If you have a metal Radial pin, there is no way you're wearing out the shaft's threads
unless that pin has some aftermarket burrs on it.
On the other hand, if you have a 314-2 that was built for you from partial to match your cue
and it does not have a phenolic insert (wood threads) AND...you have a G-10 Radial pin in the cue,
your shaft may well be on it's way to being toast, the internal threads I'm speaking of.
What a lot of people don't realize is that the 'G' in G-10 indicates GLASS.
G-9, G-10, G-12, etc. etc. all have ground glass in their composition.
Imagine all those microscopic glass shards eating away at your wood as you're screwing your cue together.
Interestingly, not all G-10 pins do this to the same degree. I believe that it has to do with the
cutting/grinding of the pin when it's being made and how it's finished.
Dick is absolutely correct in that your issue can be addressed, whatever side of the joint it's on.
Even if your cue has a metal pin, you may want to consider a pheno-insert. They're bullet-proof.
KJ