Cue tips
- Thread starter PETROBOY
- Start date
Depending on the stiffness of the shaft a Tom Haye soft or medium.
Als Einstein Examina abnahm, fragte ihn einmal ein Student: "Sie stellen in diesem Semester ja genau die gleichen Fragen wie beim letzten Mal." Darauf Einstein: "Das ist wahr. Nur die Antworten sind diesmal anders."
Als Einstein Examina abnahm, fragte ihn einmal ein Student: "Sie stellen in diesem Semester ja genau die gleichen Fragen wie beim letzten Mal." Darauf Einstein: "Das ist wahr. Nur die Antworten sind diesmal anders."
Blue Diamond
Opinions differ
Heard Ronnie uses Talisman
http://www.147academy.com/index.php?option=com_k2&view=item&id=237:the-perfect-tip
Opinions differ
Heard Ronnie uses Talisman
http://www.147academy.com/index.php?option=com_k2&view=item&id=237:the-perfect-tip
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Been rumored recently he has a special run of Elks from the Tweeten factory, different process and no chalk.
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I think it maybe a blue diamond on there now, its a Riley cue and its the original tip and I believe thats what they use. My tip is in good condition I wanted to upgrade because I thought it was a cheap tip but after I investigated I think I may just shape mine alittle better and use what I have, Thanks guys.
Here is my take on the subject:
I love Triumph, distributed by Tweeten. I have tried a few other types, but I have absolutely no reason to ever change at this point. I have known people who seem to try some new "latest and greatest" tip every time. No one seems to have heard of Triumph. It is real one piece leather (don't know what animal) backed with sort of a hard rubber pad, originally a French manufacture. Not a big French fan in general myself and I don't know if this tip is still manufactured there, but I bought a 50 pack over 25 years ago in England, still have a few left because I fell away from the game for quite a long time. As I play quite often now, I bought a new pack of 50 last time I was up in Toronto. The new and the old play exactly the same. I have never had a "bad" tip from Triumph. Most of the guys in my club don't like them because they feel too "hard" and people seem to have a hard time getting screw and side, can barely do a stop shot. I find them very responsive and they give me exactly what I ask for. Screw is not just a guess, the cue ball moves where I want it to move. The hit makes a distinctive "thwack!" kind of cracking sound rather that the dull "thud!" that comes from softer tips that absorb the impact.
Most of the guys in the club prefer Blue Diamond which I understand is supposed to be a durable mix of natural and synthetic leather but I think that they tend to play "soft" to my feel although they are supposed to be "hard" as far as shaping and durability goes. What I mean by "playing soft" is that I can probably get a greater amount of draw or screw out of a Blue Diamond tip but where the cue ball actually is going to stop is anybody's guess. The Blue Diamond grabs the cue ball well but to me, it feels "spongy" so how much back spin I actually impart to the cue ball seems to be just a wild guess and you might get it correct, you might be strong, or you might be weak.
But most importantly, here is something that I remain amazed by; The guys in the club seem to be afraid of changing their own tip. Everyone seems to think that it takes an "expert" like you would get a mechanic to work on your car engine. It's not very complicated: all you need is a utility razor knife (with a BRAND NEW blade every time you change the tip), some "gel" type super glue, some masking tape (to prevent damage to the shaft and ferrule), some coarse sand paper (some people like a rough file), and a "Scotch Brite" pad for the final clean up of the shaft, ferrule, and edges of the tip. Personally, I finish by polishing with a coat of natural beeswax, but you don't have to go that far. I have changed tips for a couple of the guys where the existing tip is like a dot on the end of the shaft....you could look at it face on and literally see the circle of the brass ferrule around the tip. (I have never liked the fiber ferrules that the Canadians seem to prefer.) It always astounds me that the most important part of the most important implement of the game gets virtually ignored by so many people.
I bought my first cue about 25 years ago and I put on my first tip about 24 years and 11 and a half months ago. Since then (not counting the decade and a half I was away from the game), I change to a new tip about every two months, three months tops. Regular shaping and roughing with the coarse sand paper will wear it down that quickly playing three, four days a week. And if you are NOT shaping and roughing the tip regularly, you are probably not controlling your cue ball very well either. If you cannot see a distinct "shoulder" on the tip (the edge of the unused portion of the tip.....in other words, if the "dome" of the tip starts immediately at the ferrule) then you should have changed it quite a while ago.
To me, if you are not changing and maintaining your own cue tip, you are like a skydiver who relies on someone else to pack their parachute: an accident is certain to happen fairly soon and it is not going to be pretty when it does.
I love Triumph, distributed by Tweeten. I have tried a few other types, but I have absolutely no reason to ever change at this point. I have known people who seem to try some new "latest and greatest" tip every time. No one seems to have heard of Triumph. It is real one piece leather (don't know what animal) backed with sort of a hard rubber pad, originally a French manufacture. Not a big French fan in general myself and I don't know if this tip is still manufactured there, but I bought a 50 pack over 25 years ago in England, still have a few left because I fell away from the game for quite a long time. As I play quite often now, I bought a new pack of 50 last time I was up in Toronto. The new and the old play exactly the same. I have never had a "bad" tip from Triumph. Most of the guys in my club don't like them because they feel too "hard" and people seem to have a hard time getting screw and side, can barely do a stop shot. I find them very responsive and they give me exactly what I ask for. Screw is not just a guess, the cue ball moves where I want it to move. The hit makes a distinctive "thwack!" kind of cracking sound rather that the dull "thud!" that comes from softer tips that absorb the impact.
Most of the guys in the club prefer Blue Diamond which I understand is supposed to be a durable mix of natural and synthetic leather but I think that they tend to play "soft" to my feel although they are supposed to be "hard" as far as shaping and durability goes. What I mean by "playing soft" is that I can probably get a greater amount of draw or screw out of a Blue Diamond tip but where the cue ball actually is going to stop is anybody's guess. The Blue Diamond grabs the cue ball well but to me, it feels "spongy" so how much back spin I actually impart to the cue ball seems to be just a wild guess and you might get it correct, you might be strong, or you might be weak.
But most importantly, here is something that I remain amazed by; The guys in the club seem to be afraid of changing their own tip. Everyone seems to think that it takes an "expert" like you would get a mechanic to work on your car engine. It's not very complicated: all you need is a utility razor knife (with a BRAND NEW blade every time you change the tip), some "gel" type super glue, some masking tape (to prevent damage to the shaft and ferrule), some coarse sand paper (some people like a rough file), and a "Scotch Brite" pad for the final clean up of the shaft, ferrule, and edges of the tip. Personally, I finish by polishing with a coat of natural beeswax, but you don't have to go that far. I have changed tips for a couple of the guys where the existing tip is like a dot on the end of the shaft....you could look at it face on and literally see the circle of the brass ferrule around the tip. (I have never liked the fiber ferrules that the Canadians seem to prefer.) It always astounds me that the most important part of the most important implement of the game gets virtually ignored by so many people.
I bought my first cue about 25 years ago and I put on my first tip about 24 years and 11 and a half months ago. Since then (not counting the decade and a half I was away from the game), I change to a new tip about every two months, three months tops. Regular shaping and roughing with the coarse sand paper will wear it down that quickly playing three, four days a week. And if you are NOT shaping and roughing the tip regularly, you are probably not controlling your cue ball very well either. If you cannot see a distinct "shoulder" on the tip (the edge of the unused portion of the tip.....in other words, if the "dome" of the tip starts immediately at the ferrule) then you should have changed it quite a while ago.
To me, if you are not changing and maintaining your own cue tip, you are like a skydiver who relies on someone else to pack their parachute: an accident is certain to happen fairly soon and it is not going to be pretty when it does.
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HI Ronnie uses Special Elk Master Tips with no Chalk on them
GO to www.thesnookerforum.co.uk under what tips does osullivan play with
Cheers Leonard