Cueball Close 2 Rail

Cornerman said:
Swerve is tremendously high on this shot, if you are using english.

If you are doing a stick aiming and mostly hitting centerball, you need to bridge differently if you are having a problem pivoting. I go with an open hand on the rail for a pivot aiming system.

Which side do you normally miss? Thick side?

Fred <~~~ it's the dreaded blind back cut, off the rail

I can't speak for anyone else, but when I'm shooting off the rail, I have the most trouble with straight shots. Seems like cuts I do okay with, but mostly straight shots, I can't keep the cue ball from swerving in the first several inches of travel. Partly it's because at least on a gold crown, the shape of the rails means you can't have a level cue if the cue ball is against the rail. If it were level, your tip would be aiming above the top of the ball. I think it's the elevation that kills me, if I could play on a lower-profile rail, the swerve might not come into play so much.

-Andrew
 
Cornerman said:
Swerve is tremendously high on this shot, if you are using english.

If you are doing a stick aiming and mostly hitting centerball, you need to bridge differently if you are having a problem pivoting. I go with an open hand on the rail for a pivot aiming system.

Which side do you normally miss? Thick side?

Fred <~~~ it's the dreaded blind back cut, off the rail

that is correct Fred, thick side most of the time. Rail shots are tough for me, i just added the backward cut to it cause it even makes it harder for me.
 
Andrew Manning said:
I can't speak for anyone else, but when I'm shooting off the rail, I have the most trouble with straight shots. Seems like cuts I do okay with, but mostly straight shots, I can't keep the cue ball from swerving in the first several inches of travel. Partly it's because at least on a gold crown, the shape of the rails means you can't have a level cue if the cue ball is against the rail. If it were level, your tip would be aiming above the top of the ball. I think it's the elevation that kills me, if I could play on a lower-profile rail, the swerve might not come into play so much.

-Andrew

thats like the bar box tables, man you have to elevate on them which makes it even harder, i have been executing this shot on my table and getting use the shot what i am doing is making shure i have the correct aim before i pull the trigger.
 
TheConArtist said:
I always have problems with these kinds of shots, take in mind i am using point and pivot to aim, and when i do this i always aim low on the cueball you know like Francisco and i cant do this cause the cueball. What kind of tips or what do you guys do when the cueball lays frozen on or to close 2 the rail. Do you guys just rely on a good stroke and smooth follow thru.? Thanks.

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Much shorter stroke on these shots. 1.5 inches at the very most. No english, just top center of the cue ball. Make the ball, you can use a little bit of speed adjustment for position, but you can't hit this type of shot hard and expect results that you can count on.

Yes, you would have to use another type of aiming system on this shot. Point and Pivot won't work here.
 
TheConArtist said:
that is correct Fred, thick side most of the time. Rail shots are tough for me, i just added the backward cut to it cause it even makes it harder for me.

Depending on how you actually aim, click one more point to the thin side. It's most likely throw that gets you on this.

Fred
 
Cornerman said:
Depending on how you actually aim, click one more point to the thin side. It's most likely throw that gets you on this.

Fred

Click One more point to the thin side, will do.

*headed downstairs to test all the advice thanks guys.
 
CaptainJR said:
Much shorter stroke on these shots. 1.5 inches at the very most. No english, just top center of the cue ball. Make the ball, you can use a little bit of speed adjustment for position, but you can't hit this type of shot hard and expect results that you can count on.

Yes, you would have to use another type of aiming system on this shot. Point and Pivot won't work here.

I agree with Captain JR. Shorten up your stroke a lot and keep your cue level. Keep a deadeye on your contact point. Good luck.
 
TheConArtist said:
never took that into thought, interesting. What kind of shaft do you have Billy Bob?

I have a Predator 314 with dime shaped Moori Q (hard) tip. But if you have been playing a long time with a regular cue, switching to a low deflection shaft can take a year or more to adjust to.

I would suggest just hitting the same exact shot 100 times.
 
Not to sound like a smarty pants but you might consider paying closer attention the the patterns, the shot you chose to shoot in this instance may not be the easiest way out..


an easy way to make these type shots is to mark the rail with your tip on your first stroke, the "chalk line" will aide you in keeping your stroke on track for final delivery, I see players do this all the time, granted you still may miss, but if you lined it up correctly and you do this I believe your odds of pocketing the shot will go up...


2wld4u
 
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