Cues without clear coat

pk552502

New member
I'm finding that I prefer wood cues without clear coat. I love the feel of the natural wood instead of the feel of the clear coat. Call me old fashioned, but I don't like a fiberglass or carbon fiber cue, so it has to be made of wood. OK if it has clear coat and with a leather or linen wrap, that is fine. But what's even better is a cue with no clear coat. I have a cue with a leather wrap and no clear coat and I'm gravitating toward that combo.

My preferences may change but I'm on the lookout for natural wood cues with perhaps an oil finish. They seem to be scarce. Anyone else share this preference?
 
I have no problem with a clear coat over the butt, I think it helps to preserve the cue from weather influences but I could be wrong on this.
Most wooden shaft only have a clear coat a few inches near the joint so where it matters, you feel the wood.
I have an Ash snooker cue that does not have a finish on it, I prefer the feel of the traditional pool cue/shaft.
 
I had a room mate in college that played lead guitar for a couple of touring bands. He also had studio recording credits. He played a bare neck Kramer. He sanded the finish off himself.

You can have whatever finish you like on whatever cue you like. You can do it yourself or have a cue repair man do it.

If you are Earl, you can just wrap it in duct tape.
 
Clear coat or none…….doesn’t matter to me. All my cue are regularly maintained using Renaissance Wax.
The shafts for every cue I own are totally free of any nicks or dents, smooth as satin and still perfectly straight,
which includes my Palmer cue that’s almost 60 years old. My Runde Schon completed in early ‘85 still looks new.

Not a single person that’s seen, touched or played with any of my cues hasn’t been impressed by the condition of
my cues’ shafts. I use two 200 ml cans of Renaissance Wax annually refinishing shafts for my friends. When their
shafts get nicked or dented, steam treatment helps raise the wood, then 3000 grit sandpaper and 2-3 coats of wax.

Craftsmen Cues in Birmingham, England makes an even better cue wax but don’t ship it except during the winter
months. Approx. 7-8 yrs. ago I had a large order of 20 tins get ruined from heat. The wax liquified and didn’t reconstitute
after refrigeration. $450 order was ruined but the manager, Simon Brown, gave me a refund but said he wouldn’t ship to the USA in the future due to the transit time (10 days) unless an order was shipped during the winter moths to avoid damage.

I stumbled across Renaissance Wax shortly after my last order with Craftsmen Cues was ruined by summer heat. The wax is used by The Museum of Natural History and Smithsonian to restore and preserve certain wood artifacts, like picture frames, chests, etc. it is a marvelous cue wax to use and absolutely blows away all the other cue shaft products. Try it & fall in love.
 
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All my cue are regularly maintained using Renaissance Wax.
Its not car wax:

Wax Renaissance.jpg
 
Almost any wax with a carnuba base will woo. I used to use Classic Car Wax 30 years ago. Just avoid wax with too much crap in them which all waxes have. Don’t let the wax sit too long drying. Renaissance Wax is like 3-5 mins. Use a really sift cloth briskly removing the wax. I actually have to wear a baseball batting glove, one of my son’s many old ones, to avoid blistering my fingers from rubbing the cue shaft very fast hand tight to ensure the wax is quickly and evenly removed. And I still blister my palm and finger pads when I do several cue shafts at the same time. If you know anyone in Fresno, tell them to find me at Sierra Billiards and ask to see any of the shafts in my 6x12 cue case. Then ask that person to call you with their impressions. They can examine every shaft I and I guarantee they’ll give a two thumbs up review on my shafts condition.
 

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