paul fanelli said:
Cutting a cue for a wrap should not require refinishing. A problem could arise because certain finishes tend to chip and will not leave a clean shoulder at the end of the wrap, but any competent repairer/cuemaker can avoid this. The only other problem is if the cue is not straight, making it difficult to maintain the same depth of cut for the entire wrap, but slight warping can be compensated for with extra work.
paul
Paul,
With all due respect sir, the edges of the channel, [both ends of the wrap area] do need to be coated, including the under-wrap area.
Your correct in saying the edges might chip, so be extra carefull when you machine these ends.
When building a cue, I machine the channel area, with each pass made over the length of the handle, this allows all of the cues woods, to be exposied to the elements equally.
When the cue needs it's last coat, I then machine in the square shoulders on each end, of the channel. Then coating the cue with it's last coat, I paint over the wrap area completely. This helps seal the handle from moister.
After machining wraps for Pete's, I recoat the edges and under-wrap area as well. If you don't re-coat the new" edges, these can chip very easily, if bumped on the tables edge.If your going to do it, why not complete the job?It only takes a little longer and it's done correctly.
For a coated pete your wanting to install a wrap on, just tape off the cue and leave about 1/16th above and below the wrap area, and coat the under-wrap area, with a good clear coat. When it's dry, come back and wet sand the ends,[lightly] and then buff out the top and bottom ends of the wrap area. They will look great, and have good protection, including the undre-wrap area. Now you got extra insurance, for the under-wrap area.
blud