Cutting phenolic
- Thread starter Dave38
- Start date
kinda, phenolic heats up quick and holds heat so low rpm and heavier on the feedrate, !0-13 tpi shold be fine
The all purpose metal and plastic blades will cut it but it will dull them.
One blade should cut that up, but it will be the end of the blade for cutting wood, so replace it when done. I think I use 6 tooth blades, but am too lazy to walk to the garage to count them right now with how I feel. Anyone else ever cracked or dislocated a rib just from sneezing while leaned over in an awkward position?
One blade should cut that up, but it will be the end of the blade for cutting wood, so replace it when done. I think I use 6 tooth blades, but am too lazy to walk to the garage to count them right now with how I feel. Anyone else ever cracked or dislocated a rib just from sneezing while leaned over in an awkward position?
Yes I broke a rib last year from a cough. Was on medical for 3 weeks for it.
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Personally I'd use a chop saw with a 10", 60T blade, ATB, no rake... should cut like butter.
Talked to Suffolk Machinery this Friday and they recommend the same blade for phenolic as the one for hardwoods of 2" thicknesses. Its a bi-metal blade made for cutting metal and the teeth are a wood cutting type @6tpi. I ordered 3 and we'll see how it goes.
Dave
Dave
So, I received the blades, and installed and set one up yesterday and started the cutting process. Those blades cut thru the phenolic like butter. I included some pictures. The guy at Suffolk Machinery was awesome to deal with and very knowledgeable and highly recommend them. I have included some pics of the phenolic with a quick finish and also of my breaker which I used the same phenolic on, I love the color and the 'grain' that it has. It actually can matchup sometimes with the grain of the wood. The wood in the cue is Goncalo Alves
Dave
Dave
Like the color Dave. Looks really nice.
rack runner
Registered
hey dave! nice. any particular brand of phenolic rod ?
No idea, was a 3" dia. 'log' I bought off ebay years ago...have not seen anything like it since. It was rolled canvas
rack runner
Registered
Aside from obsessing over Daves phenolic, we are collectively glad that you are okay also!
Quoting myself....
had some time to actually measure the "log" this evening.
was wrong about dimensions. 3-3/4" dia x 33"
Is there an advantage over cutting blanks from a flat slab? As in looks better?
If someone wanted a solid phenolic butt, it might be interesting to have it all wood grain looking?
For ferules, sleeves, etc, is the "grain" obviously different/more impressive?
Just trying to think this through. Probably never make enough cues to use it up.
Chris, glad to hear you are good!
smt
had some time to actually measure the "log" this evening.
was wrong about dimensions. 3-3/4" dia x 33"
Is there an advantage over cutting blanks from a flat slab? As in looks better?
If someone wanted a solid phenolic butt, it might be interesting to have it all wood grain looking?
For ferules, sleeves, etc, is the "grain" obviously different/more impressive?
Just trying to think this through. Probably never make enough cues to use it up.
Chris, glad to hear you are good!
smt
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what I did, and recommend is to mark off the center in a 1.5" box as rolled phenolic rod, the center is the strongest, and gives the best visual, IMO. Cut the sides in large enough slabs to work it to the inner box size of 1.5" then you can cut the slabs for ferrules, tips, and inlay material and the center will be turned round for butt, and joint material. I cut a 6" piece off first, and did the above to then have an idea if it was worth all the cutting time, and the blade costQuoting myself....
had some time to actually measure the "log" this evening.
was wrong about dimensions. 3-3/4" dia x 33"
View attachment 597108View attachment 597109View attachment 597110
Is there an advantage over cutting blanks from a flat slab? As in looks better?
If someone wanted a solid phenolic butt, it might be interesting to have it all wood grain looking?
For ferules, sleeves, etc, is the "grain" obviously different/more impressive?
Just trying to think this through. Probably never make enough cues to use it up.
Chris, glad to hear you are good!
smt
Glad i asked, that makes perfect sense, something a person might not think of
when setting up to cut "the easiest way".Roller table on saw strokes 52" so dogging it to the sub-plate i use for veneer trimming would make it like a mini-sawmill.
To keep it from rolling while cutting off-center.That said, i'm sort of trying to figure out if it would make more sense to sell it to someone who needs the round.
Rolled tube and some sizes rolled rod are available new, plus all the drops and slices of really thick flat stuff from machine shop auctions.
When you sawed a slab off a side, did it bow at all? (stress relief?)
Was there anything about the "grain" or the material that you thought would be special enough to search it (round) out again?
If same volume of flat material and a round were offered at same price, which would you choose? (assume same volume useful after sawing up & trimming the round)
I don't want to sell it and later think "wow - that effect cannot be gotten any other way & it is really special".
Thanks for being willing to comment on your hard earned experience.
smt
Rolled canvas phenolic log, 3-3/4" dia x 33" long, pix previous post, is FS on Practical Machinist site.
smt
Rolled canvas phenolic log
3-3/4" dia x 33" long 17.6 lbs Mfg unknown 3.75" rod ground from flat laid canvas phenolic seems to cost aprox $12.xx/inch current sources. This is rolled, cannot find current source similar size. May have more appeal to cue makers or furniture builders; However if rolled is needed for a...
www.practicalmachinist.com
smt