DC motor for the Hightower deluxe

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olsonsview

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I am in the process of installing a 1/2 hp DC motor, replacing my AC, original equip motor. The new motor is significantly bigger, it is a Boston Gear motor, made by Baldor. TEFC and shunt type. I can cut the shaft down from 5/8 to 1/2 inch and use the original pulley, but I am wondering if I should instead try and switch to a 3/8 inch or 1/2 inch wide link belt? Has anyone on the forum done this? The original 1/4 inch belt seems kinda puny. And link belts have a reputation for dampening vibrations. I would have to machine a pulley to replace the one Chris installs in his large bore head, I suspect that should be no problem. I hope some people can make some useful comments. And Chris: if you read this, what are your thoughts? Love the Deluxe lathe by the way! It is a great sidekick to my large metal lathes.
I am also using a KB speed control. I picked all this up for about $100 on Ebay this past week. I was going to get that Penn motor, but heard so many bad things about it, and the poor service that the seller gives, I decided to go heavy duty. I may not be able to do wraps anymore, but that is OK, I have a Cue Companion I can do that with.
Anyone have any ideas or comments? I am open to discuss this.
And more importantly: Merry Christmas and Happy New Year everyone !!!
 
olsonsview said:
I can cut the shaft down from 5/8 to 1/2 inch and use the original pulley, but I am wondering if I should instead try and switch to a 3/8 inch or 1/2 inch wide link belt? Has anyone on the forum done this? The original 1/4 inch belt seems kinda puny. And link belts have a reputation for dampening vibrations. I would have to machine a pulley to replace the one Chris installs in his large bore head, I suspect that should be no problem. I hope some people can make some useful comments.
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I don't think it would be worth the effort. Unless you took other steps to reduce vibration the gains would likely be minimal. Increase the mass by filling the U-channel similar to the way that Taig does, employ some type of vibration dampening to the mounting system of the lathe bed and then the change in belt might be worthwhile.

olsonsview said:
I am also using a KB speed control. I picked all this up for about $100 on Ebay this past week. I was going to get that Penn motor, but heard so many bad things about it, and the poor service that the seller gives, I decided to go heavy duty. I may not be able to do wraps anymore, but that is OK, I have a Cue Companion I can do that with.
Anyone have any ideas or comments? I am open to discuss this.
And more importantly: Merry Christmas and Happy New Year everyone !!!
Click to expand...

You should be able to adjust your KB DC drive to operate at low enough speed to do linen wraps. The low RPM might be pulsed depending on the model and it takes a little while to get accustom to but works none the less. There are circuit board mounted potentiometers for minimum and maximum speeds and if your eBay unit didn't come with a manual they are available for download.

You have a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year as well...
 
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Vibration control needs to start at the source. Alot of electric motors are just not that well balanced from the get go.
Start with a motor that is balanced, quiet , smooth running with the drive pulley on.
Then go from there.
The belt distance is not enough to warrant going to the bigger link belt.
 
olsonsview said:
I am in the process of installing a 1/2 hp DC motor, replacing my AC, original equip motor. The new motor is significantly bigger, it is a Boston Gear motor, made by Baldor. TEFC and shunt type. I can cut the shaft down from 5/8 to 1/2 inch and use the original pulley, but I am wondering if I should instead try and switch to a 3/8 inch or 1/2 inch wide link belt? Has anyone on the forum done this? The original 1/4 inch belt seems kinda puny. And link belts have a reputation for dampening vibrations. I would have to machine a pulley to replace the one Chris installs in his large bore head, I suspect that should be no problem. I hope some people can make some useful comments. And Chris: if you read this, what are your thoughts? Love the Deluxe lathe by the way! It is a great sidekick to my large metal lathes.
I am also using a KB speed control. I picked all this up for about $100 on Ebay this past week. I was going to get that Penn motor, but heard so many bad things about it, and the poor service that the seller gives, I decided to go heavy duty. I may not be able to do wraps anymore, but that is OK, I have a Cue Companion I can do that with.
Anyone have any ideas or comments? I am open to discuss this.
And more importantly: Merry Christmas and Happy New Year everyone !!!
Click to expand...

I would not start turning down the shaft on the motor as stated earlier. That is what kills a motor faster than aanything is vibrations. If you start messing with the factory shaft thats connected to the windings the bearings are sure to fail faster than design intended. You are much safer to open up the pulley with a reamer after getting it close with a boring bar.
 
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I agree with the last post. The way to go is to bore out your existing pulley to fit the new 5/8 motor shaft.
 
I may bore out the pulley

But I left out a detail, the motor is used and has some wear on the 5/8 inch shaft. It is center drilled however, and I have an accurate metal lathe. I was thinking of grabbing the rear of the armature with my chuck of my metal lathe. The armature shaft is extended beyond the bearing by at least an inch, so I will not touch the bearing mounting surface. Also, I plan to use the center drilled front of the armature on a live center in the tailstock. I would of course disassemble the motor in order to do the shaft reduction. I was an auto and truck mechanic in the old days, so the task does not seem too bad. The DC motor is very similar to the old generators. I am not that old to have a lot of generator experience, but I repaired a few.

Chris: do you see any advantage to a wider belt? I think maybe the belt is the weak link, and that may be good, to prevent damage to any other lathe components. A belt is cheaper than most other components. I remember learning that lesson in the old mechanic days. When I increased horsepower of a motor something would break down the line. everything must work together. I am only going to a DC because I want smooth variable speed, and constant power output. The controller has that ability. Thanks for the ideas so far guys, keep them coming?
 
olsonsview said:
But I left out a detail, the motor is used and has some wear on the 5/8 inch shaft. It is center drilled however, and I have an accurate metal lathe. I was thinking of grabbing the rear of the armature with my chuck of my metal lathe. The armature shaft is extended beyond the bearing by at least an inch, so I will not touch the bearing mounting surface. Also, I plan to use the center drilled front of the armature on a live center in the tailstock. I would of course disassemble the motor in order to do the shaft reduction. I was an auto and truck mechanic in the old days, so the task does not seem too bad. The DC motor is very similar to the old generators. I am not that old to have a lot of generator experience, but I repaired a few.

Chris: do you see any advantage to a wider belt? I think maybe the belt is the weak link, and that may be good, to prevent damage to any other lathe components. A belt is cheaper than most other components. I remember learning that lesson in the old mechanic days. When I increased horsepower of a motor something would break down the line. everything must work together. I am only going to a DC because I want smooth variable speed, and constant power output. The controller has that ability. Thanks for the ideas so far guys, keep them coming?
Click to expand...
I can't see the belt needing a large size than it is. If you go larger you have to also modify the headstock pulley.
 
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