Dial indicator or dro

I have that DRO, except I used the 500mm size, on my Taig-based lathe on the Z (long) axis. It's ideal for setting the end of the ferrule to "0" and then taking only .001-.002" off for facing purposes. I have no problem with the size of the readout on mine.
 
 

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I like that it is made foe a taig crosslide. Looks like you would have to remove the lock for the MidAmerica

 
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I like that it is made foe a taig crosslide. Looks like you would have to remove the lock for the MidAmerica

I've not used that DRO but just looking at the pics, it looks like it mounts nearest the tailstock . The lock wingnut for facing is in the middle. I think it would work, but it might make for tight quarters when locking down for facing. It's interesting, not horribly priced either.
 
I like that it is made foe a taig crosslide. Looks like you would have to remove the lock for the MidAmerica

No when i added it to the the previous lathe I epoxied an allen wrench so the lock screw was easily accessible . i just didn't like the indicator size, too small for my old eyes to read lol it might work for you
 
No when i added it to the the previous lathe I epoxied an allen wrench so the lock screw was easily accessible . i just didn't like the indicator size, too small for my old eyes to read lol it might work for you
Probably older than you. Back hurts,cant see. Sad cause i still like shooting pool
 
I don't have a taig style lathe, but I did go with a DRO on my metal lathe I make cues on.

I looked into these cheap-o style DRO you linked and my biggest concern with them was the accuracy. On the listing, they claim accuracy to 0.002, in my opinion that's piss poor accuracy as far as machining cues goes, especially when you need joints and pins to be realistically below 0.001. So an accuracy of 0.002 doesn't come close to cutting it. And if you're going to double check with a caliper every single time you do something, why even bother with DRO?

I went with a cheaper chinese full size DRO head-unit, and slimline glass scales. It costed like $500 all said and done, but it's claimed accuracy is 0.0002, which is MILES more accurate than 0.002, and I've tested and confirmed my DRO is more accurate than my dial indicators.


So, my personal opinion is the DRO you linked is more of a toy if you're trying to do real precision machining. Either go with a cheaper, but more accurate chinese DRO, or just use graduation dials and calipers and save the headaches of toy-level technology. I am sure a lot of other people looked into these and came to the same conclusion, which is why you don't see them on everyone's lathe.
 
I don't have a taig style lathe, but I did go with a DRO on my metal lathe I make cues on.

I looked into these cheap-o style DRO you linked and my biggest concern with them was the accuracy. On the listing, they claim accuracy to 0.002, in my opinion that's piss poor accuracy as far as machining cues goes, especially when you need joints and pins to be realistically below 0.001. So an accuracy of 0.002 doesn't come close to cutting it. And if you're going to double check with a caliper every single time you do something, why even bother with DRO?

I went with a cheaper chinese full size DRO head-unit, and slimline glass scales. It costed like $500 all said and done, but it's claimed accuracy is 0.0002, which is MILES more accurate than 0.002, and I've tested and confirmed my DRO is more accurate than my dial indicators.


So, my personal opinion is the DRO you linked is more of a toy if you're trying to do real precision machining. Either go with a cheaper, but more accurate chinese DRO, or just use graduation dials and calipers and save the headaches of toy-level technology. I am sure a lot of other people looked into these and came to the same conclusion, which is why you don't see them on everyone's lathe.

I agree with the accuracy and precision concerns of the digital micrometers used in these diy dros (I have a few for my taig). I switched back to dials for some key measurements.
 
I agree with the accuracy and precision concerns of the digital micrometers used in these diy dros (I have a few for my taig). I switched back to dials for some key measurements.
Yeah, I'd also like to correct myself. The initial measurements to perform the movement on the lathe will be using the graduation dials, then confirmed with a caliper on the workpiece. So, you're ending up using 2 other devices to confirm the DRO does it's job every single time. Just doesn't make sense to use DRO unless the DRO is the most accurate form of measurement on the machine.

Sorry, just wanted to clarify so I don't sound like more of an idiot than I already can be.
 
Dial indicators for the win!
Dial indicators for the win!
Hard to beat a rock solid dial indicator.

I still use my Mitutoyo on my carriage for when I am lazy and don't feel like turning on the techy crap, little stuff like ferrules and whatnot.

But when I am roughing out tapers and stuff similar, having a DRO saves soooooo much time haha. Just move the cross-slide and I know it's exactly where it say's it's gonna be, take my rough cut, then 2 finishing cuts and throw a caliper on it just to satisfy myself and it's within 0.001 every single time, which for a 30" taper on wood, on a 1940s atlas lathe is almost remarkable. Almost.. lol
 
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