Difference between Break and shooter?
- Thread starter Mc2
- Start date
Mc2 said:
On break cues the shaft is usually a little thicker and stiffer. The tip is generally harder than you would use on a playing cue. On jump cues the tip is very hard. Usually close to phenolic in hardness. This makes it much easier to jump. The information that I have read indicate that a lighter cue can be moved quicker and this is more important in breaking. The joint does not appear to matter too much as I have seen almost any joint configuration used
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The best jump cues (in my opinion) deflect the cueball like CRAZY. The best break cues deflect the ball very little. I don't like jump/break cues because there always has to be a compromise. I would rather have the best tools for both jobs.
The best jump/break would probably be fairly light, with a very hard tip and a heavy ferrule. Close to 14mm and whatever taper you are comfortable with.
The best jump/break would probably be fairly light, with a very hard tip and a heavy ferrule. Close to 14mm and whatever taper you are comfortable with.
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Thanks for the info guys. I am getting ready to put an initial taper on some purple heart shaft wood and wasn't sure if it should be straight taper or pro taper. If I leave at 14mm as suggested for break I should be ok with pro taper. If defleection is desired for jump then a maple shaft with smaller diameter pro taper should work fine. I think I will agree they should be two seperate cues.
thanks, Jimbo.
thanks, Jimbo.
RBC
Deceased
Mc2
I think you might be confused a little.
Sheldon mentioned that break cues need very little deflection and jump cues need allot of deflection. What he is referring to is cue ball deflection, not shaft deflection.
Your 14mm purple heart shaft will have a ton of cue ball deflection, where as your narrow maple shaft would have much less cue ball deflection. In this case the large purple heart would make a better jump shaft while the thinner maple shaft would be better for breaking.
I happen to agree completely with Sheldon. I carry a seperate jump cue that is thick and heavy at the tip end, and it jumps like crazy. I also carry a break cue with a stock OB-1 cue shaft and a hard Talisman tip. I can break the balls very hard with this cue and still hit the rack very square and have good cue ball control.
Royce Bunnell
www.obcues.com
I think you might be confused a little.
Sheldon mentioned that break cues need very little deflection and jump cues need allot of deflection. What he is referring to is cue ball deflection, not shaft deflection.
Your 14mm purple heart shaft will have a ton of cue ball deflection, where as your narrow maple shaft would have much less cue ball deflection. In this case the large purple heart would make a better jump shaft while the thinner maple shaft would be better for breaking.
I happen to agree completely with Sheldon. I carry a seperate jump cue that is thick and heavy at the tip end, and it jumps like crazy. I also carry a break cue with a stock OB-1 cue shaft and a hard Talisman tip. I can break the balls very hard with this cue and still hit the rack very square and have good cue ball control.
Royce Bunnell
www.obcues.com
Thanks RBC. that is quite different then what I was thinking. I understand shaft deflection. Are you saying that the cue ball will actually give or change shape easier with stiffer shaft? The cue ball will depress down into the table and bounces up? Is this what you mean by cue ball deflection?
thanks, Jimbo.
thanks, Jimbo.
one thing you want is a light jump cue, stay away from the cues with stainless joints. the stainless adds about an ounce to the cue.