Differences between Diamond & Valley 7 footer

[JoeyA]

What are the playing differences and things you do differently on each table?

The Valley bar tables seem to have wider corner pockets and the cue ball is normally a seemingly heavier cue ball than what is normally found on Diamond tables.

How about the side pockets? What are the differences in pocketing balls between the two tables?

Any special advice for playing on Valley Bar Tables as compared to playing
on Diamond Bar Tables.

Thanks,

JoeyA

 

[Neil]

What are the playing differences and things you do differently on each table?

The Valley bar tables seem to have wider corner pockets and the cue ball is normally a seemingly heavier cue ball than what is normally found on Diamond tables.

How about the side pockets? What are the differences in pocketing balls between the two tables?

Any special advice for playing on Valley Bar Tables as compared to playing
on Diamond Bar Tables.

Thanks,

JoeyA

Joey, measure the pocket opening on a Diamond and a Valley. You will be surprised at what you find out. The Valley pocket seems larger because it takes balls easier due to the shorter shelf and the angle of the pocket.

I don't find the heavier ball to be near as much a problem as some places that make the tables so fast that it's like playing a pin-ball machine. Diamonds, before the blue label, all banked short. So, position play had to be re-learned on them also. Also, at least around here, the diamonds sit up higher than the valleys do. So, you have to readjust your stance a little.

 

[DAVE_M]

What are the playing differences and things you do differently on each table?

The Valley bar tables seem to have wider corner pockets and the cue ball is normally a seemingly heavier cue ball than what is normally found on Diamond tables.

How about the side pockets? What are the differences in pocketing balls between the two tables?

Any special advice for playing on Valley Bar Tables as compared to playing
on Diamond Bar Tables.

Thanks,

JoeyA

It depends on what kind of Valley we are talking about and other equipment.

If it's a Valley with thick napped cloth and a heavy ball set, I use less English as it's harder to move the rock.
If it's a Valley with Simonis cloth and a heavy ball set, I use less English and hit everything pocket speed so I don't lose the rock.
If it's a Valley with Simonis cloth and a good ball set (Aramith), I play as normal, but try to control the rock with more precision as the pockets are massive.

There was a pool hall in north Louisiana that had 6 valley's. Two had Simonis 760, two had Valley Teflon cloth, and two had napped cloth. Each table played worlds apart. The one tournament I played in there, I ended up losing my first match on a napped table, won my way through the losers bracket (5 races to 3) on the Simonis tables, and lost in the finals on a napped table.

 

[LuckyStroke]

I played on a valley last night that I think had championship cloth. It played pretty well, but if you played the cb with any spin it took off, no spin and it died. I eventually got the hang of it and won my match. It did, however, have the green label valley cue ball and it was beat to hell. Damn thing couldn't even roll straight in the ball return

 

[nobcitypool]

In general, the Diamonds will play faster, will be shorter off the rail and the deeper shelves will cause balls to rattle out that go in on the Valleys all day long. Play more shots at pocket speed until you get used to the pockets.

 

[Ken_4fun]

Diamonds to me seem to bank funny.

Mostly, to the point of almost always, they seem to bank short.

Fairly consistent, but short.

I recommend you practice banks on them.

Ken

 

[Jude Rosenstock]

I usually play on 9-foot tables (both Brunswick and Diamond) and I find the Diamond 7-footer simply feels like a smaller version of what I'm used to. I can't quite put my finger on it but the pockets are more true, the banks are more true, the rolls are more true. At least they're "more true" from my own personal perspective on how a table should play (I'm sure others may have differing opinions). The Valleys I've played on are less consistent. This is often due to the fact that they're always older. Some of those tables can be 20 years old, maybe more. As well, the competitions I've played on Valleys are often not "top tier" events so no Simonis, less attention to leveling, less attention to rail-reaction. In sum, when I see Diamonds, I know the organizer is very concerned with equipment. When I see Valleys, it's likely they're less concerned.

 

[mel_smOg]

played on Valley yesterday and they are much much slower than diamonds, and accept balls easier!

 

[Aaron_S]

I think it depends on the age of the table. If it is more than a few years old, the Diamond will play a TON shorter than a Valley. I often use double-the-distance for banks, and I find that I have to aim 4-6" long for cross corner/cross side banks. The rails are also much hotter on those older Diamonds - a little bounce off the rail may travel twice as far as you are used to. On a positive note, I think the pockets are perfect. My advice is to hit some kicks, banks, and 2/3/4 rail position shots prior to matching up or competing on one.

Aaron

 

[JoeyA]

Joey, measure the pocket opening on a Diamond and a Valley. You will be surprised at what you find out. The Valley pocket seems larger because it takes balls easier due to the shorter shelf and the angle of the pocket.

I don't find the heavier ball to be near as much a problem as some places that make the tables so fast that it's like playing a pin-ball machine. Diamonds, before the blue label, all banked short. So, position play had to be re-learned on them also. Also, at least around here, the diamonds sit up higher than the valleys do. So, you have to readjust your stance a little.

Also, at least around here, the diamonds sit up higher than the valleys do. So, you have to readjust your stance a little

It depends on what kind of Valley we are talking about and other equipment.

If it's a Valley with thick napped cloth and a heavy ball set, I use less English as it's harder to move the rock.
If it's a Valley with Simonis cloth and a heavy ball set, I use less English and hit everything pocket speed so I don't lose the rock.
If it's a Valley with Simonis cloth and a good ball set (Aramith), I play as normal, but try to control the rock with more precision as the pockets are massive.

There was a pool hall in north Louisiana that had 6 valley's. Two had Simonis 760, two had Valley Teflon cloth, and two had napped cloth. Each table played worlds apart. The one tournament I played in there, I ended up losing my first match on a napped table, won my way through the losers bracket (5 races to 3) on the Simonis tables, and lost in the finals on a napped table.

Whew! I am going to keep a sharp eye out for you. See you February 15th.

I played on a valley last night that I think had championship cloth. It played pretty well, but if you played the cb with any spin it took off, no spin and it died. I eventually got the hang of it and won my match. It did, however, have the green label valley cue ball and it was beat to hell. Damn thing couldn't even roll straight in the ball return

TKS

In general, the Diamonds will play faster, will be shorter off the rail and the deeper shelves will cause balls to rattle out that go in on the Valleys all day long. Play more shots at pocket speed until you get used to the pockets.

Play more shots at pocket speed until you get used to the pockets. TKS

Diamonds to me seem to bank funny.

Mostly, to the point of almost always, they seem to bank short.

Fairly consistent, but short.

I recommend you practice banks on them.

Ken

I recommend you practice banks on them.

I usually play on 9-foot tables (both Brunswick and Diamond) and I find the Diamond 7-footer simply feels like a smaller version of what I'm used to. I can't quite put my finger on it but the pockets are more true, the banks are more true, the rolls are more true. At least they're "more true" from my own personal perspective on how a table should play (I'm sure others may have differing opinions). The Valleys I've played on are less consistent. This is often due to the fact that they're always older. Some of those tables can be 20 years old, maybe more. As well, the competitions I've played on Valleys are often not "top tier" events so no Simonis, less attention to leveling, less attention to rail-reaction. In sum, when I see Diamonds, I know the organizer is very concerned with equipment. When I see Valleys, it's likely they're less concerned.

The Valleys I've played on are less consistent.

played on Valley yesterday and they are much much slower than diamonds, and accept balls easier!

Pretty much my experience except for the side pockets.

I think it depends on the age of the table. If it is more than a few years old, the Diamond will play a TON shorter than a Valley. I often use double-the-distance for banks, and I find that I have to aim 4-6" long for cross corner/cross side banks. The rails are also much hotter on those older Diamonds - a little bounce off the rail may travel twice as far as you are used to. On a positive note, I think the pockets are perfect. My advice is to hit some kicks, banks, and 2/3/4 rail position shots prior to matching up or competing on one.

Aaron

My advice is to hit some kicks, banks, and 2/3/4 rail position shots prior to matching up or competing on one.