Difficult Draw Shot

Tennesseejoe

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
draw shot.png

I find this a difficult draw shot to make consistently. The red dot cue ball is the starting point. The plane cue ball is the target after cutting the 8 ball in the upper left pocket. The objective is to make the 9 ball in the upper right pocket.

Do you find it difficult and how do you shoot it?
 
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straightline

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Depends how much slack on the pocket. Low outside as recommended is high percentage if you don't slam it or feel like you have to slam it. Oddly Lassiter is attributed with saying, "The correct" way to shoot this is rail first with some low inside. Different cloth back then I guess. The ball goes across the table perpendicular and the the inside which is now running english takes it up table. You can do this with the diagrammed shot by going rail first with draw alone. The ball should hit above the side pocket and spin itself the rest of the way. Experiment to get a feel for which side of the 9 you land.
 

MitchAlsup

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
View attachment 660110
I find this a difficult draw shot to make consistently. The red dot cue ball is the starting point. The plane cue ball is the target after cutting the 8 ball in the upper left pocket. The objective is to make the 9 ball in the upper right pocket.

Do you find it difficult and how do you shoot it?
Like another, I would go down table and 3-rail the CB to the other side.
Then it is a simple follow shot.
 

tim913

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Not a difficult shot .. low, low right even low inside if you’re comfortable with that. If you’re having trouble move CB closer and increase the distance as you get more confident. Most players miss this shot because they hit it too hard and rattle the pocket .. not a power shot
 

Lawnboy77

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Yeah I would go down table with inside high and let the running English get me 3 rail position. Using outside draw on a ball froze to the rail can be real tricky on the tight pocket tables of today. I like inside on those shots frozen where the OB has to travel a couple of diamonds.
 

philly

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I would play it to side rails towards nine ball. also to prevent scratches. Also i would(always) use more than tip right english and adjust how low i go. Sometimes you dont need much low to get 2 rail good route.
I agree.
The rails are your friends.
Depending on how I am feeling about my stroke that day I might even use a tip of low left to insure the
cue ball's movement to the opposite rail as the left spin will move the ball a touch right when hitting the rail.
 

td873

C is for Cookie
Silver Member
For me, the softer stroke draw shot is the right answer. It's a pretty flat angle that isn't really conducive to a 2 rail shot (which you would have to hit pretty hard and then the ball has a tendency to jaw up). Shooting softer, you give the ball a really good chance to go in (picking up natural roll) even if it's slightly mis-hit. And pulling shape is easy with this shot. Just don't over hit it. You can hit it a lot softer than you think.

-td

 

VarmintKong

Cannonball comin’!
What’s up Joe?

Have you ever tried Bert Kinister’s 6 pointed star? This shot comes up in almost every variation after the first one (just a diamond up).

Your post is very pertinent to my current development as I’ve been struggling similarly with this type of shot. Especially, when a ball is frozen to the rail.

Now I’m gonna talk completely out my rear, so grain of salt brother?
-I find with less angle the more I rely on the vertical axis and as the cut angle increases side has more influence.
-I am not confident using a lot of outside when the ball is frozen to the rail. I try to tell myself, “smooth, smooth,” but if I over hit cuz I’m trying to move the ball too much the object ball inevitably rattles off the point... or worse.
-Is there an optimum distance where the object ball is from the rail that is needed for sidespin to take effect? I’m much more confident using outside when the ball is a ball or even half ball from the rail. I know it still takes, but does it take as much? For example, your shot with straight low I’ll get a diamond to diamond and a half max past the side pocket. With low outside I’ll get just past 2 diamonds. If I were to take that object ball and move it a half ball or ball off the rail with maybe a little more cut angle where could I get? Guess I’ll have to set it up and learn.
-Did you try follow with inside to come around 3 or 4 rails through center table for the 9 in the bottom pocket? With a frozen ball I’m almost more confident in that shot at this stage in my development, although I think the right way to play it is low and outside; less table to travel.

Thanks for the timely post and gettin’ me thinking.
 

MattPoland

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I think you need to be able to play any shot with any English. Or I should say with the English the shot needs for cueball control. I prefer using English for position not for pocketing.

So I assume you’re either having trouble with aiming the shot or you’re having trouble executing the draw.

For aiming, I remember when I’d try to hit the edge of the ball on rail shots. There was an AHA moment for me when I realized rail shots are not 90 degree cuts. From behind the cueball, the contact point is not the edge of the object ball. The contact point is inside the ball some. I started making more rail shots by aiming them like any other cut and no longer treating them like they are any different or special.

For executing the draw, I think all the old guidance applies. Hit low on the ball and follow through. And if it’s not working, it’s probably because you’re cue tip is not hitting the cueball precisely where you intend to. Where the tip hits the cueball demands a precise effort. So many people stroke their cue with a very general effort and their tip contact drifts. They don’t realize just how much care, intention and precision stronger players put into their tip contact.
 

bbb

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
For me, the softer stroke draw shot is the right answer. It's a pretty flat angle that isn't really conducive to a 2 rail shot (which you would have to hit pretty hard and then the ball has a tendency to jaw up). Shooting softer, you give the ball a really good chance to go in (picking up natural roll) even if it's slightly mis-hit. And pulling shape is easy with this shot. Just don't over hit it. You can hit it a lot softer than you think.

-td

:love:
excellent post and nice shooting.... (y)
 

buckshotshoey

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
For me, the softer stroke draw shot is the right answer. It's a pretty flat angle that isn't really conducive to a 2 rail shot (which you would have to hit pretty hard and then the ball has a tendency to jaw up). Shooting softer, you give the ball a really good chance to go in (picking up natural roll) even if it's slightly mis-hit. And pulling shape is easy with this shot. Just don't over hit it. You can hit it a lot softer than you think.

-td

I like it when someone posts a video instead of talk. Thank you.
 

ChrisinNC

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
View attachment 660110
I find this a difficult draw shot to make consistently. The red dot cue ball is the starting point. The plane cue ball is the target after cutting the 8 ball in the upper left pocket. The objective is to make the 9 ball in the upper right pocket.

Do you find it difficult and how do you shoot it?
If that 8-ball is frozen on the side rail and/or they are tight pockets, the bottom outside could very likely result in a rattle/miss.

If frozen, I would opt for high inside and come around 3/4 rails for the 9-ball in the other lower corner pocket.
 

SmoothStroke

Swim for the win.
Silver Member
You must to be able to hit the the shot every way known to mankind and back again.
Draw light or extreme power, any amount of English, lay it up, 1 rail, 2 rails, 3 rails, less or more english. etc.
The King of strokes for this shot is digging under the cueball and dropping in on the opposite side
of the short rail, that's your true tester, if you can stroke that you can draw stroke all other options blindfolded.

This is a stroke drill worked in 4 increments and distance from short to 3/4 length table.
Whatever is easy, how I, or anyone would play it, is irrelevant.
You must have the ability to send your cueball anywhere when called upon.
You must have complete Stroke Control and technique.

When you own the strokes there are no questions, only choices, because you are capable
of doing anything you want with the cue ball.
You only get one chance at a shot.
I've never heard an opponent say,,,, Hey buddy you dogged that stroke
set it up and try it again.
 

straightline

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
For me, the softer stroke draw shot is the right answer. It's a pretty flat angle that isn't really conducive to a 2 rail shot (which you would have to hit pretty hard and then the ball has a tendency to jaw up). Shooting softer, you give the ball a really good chance to go in (picking up natural roll) even if it's slightly mis-hit. And pulling shape is easy with this shot. Just don't over hit it. You can hit it a lot softer than you think.

-td

Lots of cool stuff on your channel. (y)

Found this in the sidebar as well. Never seen or thought of this one:


It really emphasizes and zones the touch aspect of the draw shot.
 
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