Discoloration in an inlay

[Rod]

Question for you guys. I have an old Meyer cue, looks similar to a palmer. I sent it out to be refinished. When it come back two MOP diamond inlays look discolored on one edge, like a stain or something. However no stain was used.

I was told it could be some dust from stripping or finish got below the cracked inlay. The inlays may need to be replaced but that is unknown at this point until I send the cue back. I didn't think it possible to see anything beneath a MOP inlay since its not clear or opaque to my knowledge.

Have any of you guys ever had similar happen? Just curious and wanted to ask first before I proceed.

Here is a pic of both, although one only has a slight problem. Both are to the left side.

Rod

 

[rhncue]

Question for you guys. I have an old Meyer cue, looks similar to a palmer. I sent it out to be refinished. When it come back two MOP diamond inlays look discolored on one edge, like a stain or something. However no stain was used.

I was told it could be some dust from stripping or finish got below the cracked inlay. The inlays may need to be replaced but that is unknown at this point until I send the cue back. I didn't think it possible to see anything beneath a MOP inlay since its not clear or opaque to my knowledge.

Have any of you guys ever had similar happen? Just curious and wanted to ask first before I proceed.

Here is a pic of both, although one only has a slight problem. Both are to the left side.
Rod

This is very common with mother-of-pearl. The inlay itself is usually much thinner than other inlays. Since the cue is on a radius the outer edges of the inlay are sanded thinner than the middle. Mother-of-pear is translucent and what you are now seeing is the wood or glue beneath the inlay showing thru.

Dick

 

[Arnot Wadsworth]

Inlay Problem

It looks to me like the original glue that was used to secure the Mother of Pearl (MOP) inlay dried up and created a void. The new finish probably picked up some color from the wood and migrated into the void. The person refinishing the cue would not have foreseen that happening.

The only question left is "How do I fix it"? The only way I know is to replace the inlay with a new one. The next question will be "will the new inlay match the original inlays"? You might have to replace all the inlays to get a perfect match.

I no longer do any repair work because it often turns into a lose - lose situation. Thing come up are nobody's fault and result in hard feelings for all concerned.

 

[Rod]

Thanks for your help guys. Now I have a much better picture of what happened. I suspected the MOP inlay match could be a problem since I had a similar problem happen years ago. The MOP was a milky sort of color not bright and sharp/clear like the old one.

I may have it repaired but it would have been nice to know before it was shipped back to me. Knowing what you guys know would you have it replaced or leave it? It doesn't have to be a perfect match, very close would be ok.

Rod

 

[TellsItLikeItIs]

Question for you guys. I have an old Meyer cue, looks similar to a palmer. I sent it out to be refinished. When it come back two MOP diamond inlays look discolored on one edge, like a stain or something. However no stain was used.

I was told it could be some dust from stripping or finish got below the cracked inlay. The inlays may need to be replaced but that is unknown at this point until I send the cue back. I didn't think it possible to see anything beneath a MOP inlay since its not clear or opaque to my knowledge.

Have any of you guys ever had similar happen? Just curious and wanted to ask first before I proceed.

Here is a pic of both, although one only has a slight problem. Both are to the left side.

Rod

When that cue was originally made, the cutter used to do the inlay pocket was not centered on the cue. That caused one side of the inlay to be thicker than the other side. When the original maker turned the cue, he was certainly aware of that, and had a feel for how much he could turn it down without the inlay becoming transparent. MOP is transluscent, not transparent. That inlay is so thin on one side you can read the Lords Prayer through it.

The person that refinished it could not possibly have know this, (obviously, since you did not know it either). He proceeds to strip and sand, then the situation becomes apparent. Uh oh! Only way to correct it (done correctly) is to replace the inlays & refinish that area of the cue. It may even be necessary to replace them with ones that are just a few thousandths larger (or as Arnot suggested, possibly have to replace all of them to get a proper match. That's a decision for the person that does the job to make. I no longer do repairs on other brand cues either. The aggravation & potential for hard feelings just do not justify the dollars received.

 

[TellsItLikeItIs]

Thanks for your help guys. Now I have a much better picture of what happened. I suspected the MOP inlay match could be a problem since I had a similar problem happen years ago. The MOP was a milky sort of color not bright and sharp/clear like the old one.

I may have it repaired but it would have been nice to know before it was shipped back to me. Knowing what you guys know would you have it replaced or leave it? It doesn't have to be a perfect match, very close would be ok.

Rod

Personally, I would live with it. That is, unless you are going to have it done correctly. "Very close" to one person may be not so close in your eyes.

 

[Rod]

Thanks once again. Another problem could be other inlays could be a problem once sanded again. Yet another could be the runout of the cue, its straight but three or four thousands could spell trouble.

As a once amature machinist I know it could be shimmed in the chuck but I'm not ready for another problem waiting to happen. Well, replace them all is an option but sounds to costly.

Rod

 

[TellsItLikeItIs]

Thanks once again. Another problem could be other inlays could be a problem once sanded again.

I'll preface this with my previous opinion: "I would live with it". Yes, new inlays could be a problem, but at least you do have the existing inlays/pockets to guage the new work by. If the new inlay pockets were cut XX thousandths deeper, you would know you are that much below the existing finish dimension of the cue. Once the new inlays are in place, turn a couple thousandths off the cue and you should be home free. One thing you should be aware of though, MOP is available only in certain thickness. What's available may not be thick enough to correct the situation.

Yet another could be the runout of the cue, its straight but three or four thousands could spell trouble.
As a once amature machinist I know it could be shimmed in the chuck but I'm not ready for another problem waiting to happen. Well, replace them all is an option but sounds to costly.
Rod

Correct. Turning the cue again could open up a new can of worms. Sounds like you have enough to go fishing with as it is. Shimming to change the turning center(s) on a cue should not be attempted by the faint of heart. It sounds easy, it can be done, and it does work, but it does involve several tedious adjustments. I have tried it a couple times. Being stubborn/determined/bullheaded/whatever, I refused to quit after the first try. Now that I'm older and have a few more grey hairs, (from doing repairs btw I don't do it. Shimming is one method of correcting points that are not even. If my points run out, I chuck the work (chuck as in throw it in the trash) Excuse the pun please.