Discolouration of Cocobola

[rhncue]

A spray bomb is just a regular spray can that the stuff comes in, that's another reason In don't recomend, because it's kind of a half bout way to do a finish on a cue. It also comes in quarts though. Like I mentioned that was just something I did so I could use the cue, and I'm not really setup properly for the finish yet.

The sealer I guess It would depend on what type, and any sanding that May need done, if it needed sanding that is. but you really just want to seal it good as far as I know, and, if It were me I would use just enough to get It done and get full coverage, but that's just me, and Like I mentioned when it comes to the finish on cues, that's something I'm still working on Myself. I tried a epoxy coat one time and did'nt like the way it sanded, so I am either looking for a different brand, or a different product altogether. I believe that when spraying auto finishes there are some good primer/sealers for that, but I have no idea If any are of use on wood, or clear enough to clear cote over. I know a couple of people around here that may be able to help me with that question, but waiting till I get into the auto finish to find out. If they have stuff that sticks to the newer bumpers then something would probably work on cues, but if It can be bought in clear may be another thing altogether.

The finish is My last big hurdle Myself, I'll have more I'm sure, but right now that's My weakest area, and where I'm at. I suspect that when I get a spray booth setup, I will have more answers, but right now I'm afraid I really don't. There are plenty that could answer better then I.

The shelac and poly, no I did not know that, but never tried it. the poly finish I mentioned, I had tried going right over the cue, and as I mentioned the results were not up to par in My opinion. I'm not real sure how/if someone could make the stuff work, or what sealer would be good with It.

That link you posted- Those little spray bottles look like they could be handy in the right situations, depending on the kind of work someone did, or possibly even touch-up/punchout work.
I use to work with a buddy that owned a bussiness painting custom homes & doing comercial work years back, and We noticed those little refillable spray bottles when the paint stores started carrying them. They looked like they would be nice for getting in tight areas, and keeping the over spray down, but we used an HVLP for our detail work, it worked great with minimal overspray anyhow, and got into most spots we needed, so we never did try one of those out.

Sorry I could'nt be of more help. Maybe in a different area I could've, but I could take many lessons on finishing cues Myself, as you can see There really is alot more to it then meets the eye, and each method seems to have it own share of problems.

If no one steps up to the plate, then I suggest doing what your doing and keep running searches, and reading everything you can on the different areas, and experiementing. Lot of info on the web if you can tap into some good sites. Who knows Maybe you will find a method that works, and no one else has used on a cue yet. Good luck, hope it works out well for you.

Greg C

The choice of sealer depends on the type finish you are spraying over it. The sealer I use I spray one heavy coat and wait an hour or so and then start building my finish. If I wait longer than four hours then I must wait till the next day and then scuff the sealer before spraying over it or there is a chance that the finish won't stick as the sealer by then has got to hard.

You look for a number of qualities in a sealer that will make the finish easier to apply and last. The three things that are absolutely imperative in a sealer for it to be of any use are: 1. It needs to be clear so that what is underneath still shows (grey automotive primer isn't much help). 2. It must aggresively adhere to the substrate. This includes different woods, plastics, phenolics and metals. 3. It must create a surface and be chemically balanced so that the finish will aggresively adhere to it.
These three things are imparitive for the sealer to be of any use at all to a cue-maker. Other things such as ease of application and clean up and availability are plusses but not imperative for use.

Dick

 

[Cue Crazy]

The choice of sealer depends on the type finish you are spraying over it. The sealer I use I spray one heavy coat and wait an hour or so and then start building my finish. If I wait longer than four hours then I must wait till the next day and then scuff the sealer before spraying over it or there is a chance that the finish won't stick as the sealer by then has got to hard.

You look for a number of qualities in a sealer that will make the finish easier to apply and last. The three things that are absolutely imperative in a sealer for it to be of any use are: 1. It needs to be clear so that what is underneath still shows (grey automotive primer isn't much help). 2. It must aggresively adhere to the substrate. This includes different woods, plastics, phenolics and metals. 3. It must create a surface and be chemically balanced so that the finish will aggresively adhere to it.
These three things are imparitive for the sealer to be of any use at all to a cue-maker. Other things such as ease of application and clean up and availability are plusses but not imperative for use.

Dick

Thanks Dick,

Your a stand-up guy, and I apprietiate the step in the right direction. I don't think I'll be putting any gray primer on anything except My old beat up truck maybe , but can I ask One question If you don't mind sir. I don't expect any product names, but Am I to assume that there May actually be product that's clear and will work as sealer from where I get My auto urethane, or is that something I'm going to have to order? I am concerned about all the issues you mentioned, and most may be somewhat determainable by the can, sales rep., or one of the paint & body guys I know, except for whether or not it will stick to and seal wood? The only way I could see them knowing that is if someone had reconditioned a truck with a wood bed at one time, and even then, possible they may have used more traditional products not related to their field. Thanks Greg C

 

[bushka]

thanks for the detailed reply !!

By the way whats a Spray Bomb ??

Also for the sealer coat how many coats would be recommended before
i start piling on the finish coat?

(I bet you already know this) but I also read in some other wood working websites that Polyurethane finishes will not adhere to certain types of shellac

Hello, I missed something, What type of cue is this and where was it made?

William

 

[rhncue]

Thanks Dick,

Your a stand-up guy, and I apprietiate the step in the right direction. I don't think I'll be putting any gray primer on anything except My old beat up truck maybe , but can I ask One question If you don't mind sir. I don't expect any product names, but Am I to assume that there May actually be product that's clear and will work as sealer from where I get My auto urethane, or is that something I'm going to have to order? I am concerned about all the issues you mentioned, and most may be somewhat determainable by the can, sales rep., or one of the paint & body guys I know, except for whether or not it will stick to and seal wood? The only way I could see them knowing that is if someone had reconditioned a truck with a wood bed at one time, and even then, possible they may have used more traditional products not related to their field. Thanks Greg C

The stuff I use is called "Koa Wood Insulater". It is really a great sealer. Works very well with oily woods such as Cocobolo with no bleeding of the oils into the finish. It is dry to the touch in less than two minutes and has very good adhesion. It is a two part epoxy that is thin and is sprayed onto the cue with a normal gun.

Now that was the good points. It also has bad points. It has a rather short shelf life. The manufacturer says it should be used within six months but actually it lasts over a year. The manufacturer is in Greenville S.C. but they have a minimum order of 300.00. They only have one store that carries their product and that is in Fl. around Daytona I believe. You can call the manufacturer and get more information from them. What they primarly make are paints for airplanes. Their name is Axon Products and tel. # is 864 299-2819. They can give you the information on where to purchase and whatever else you would like to know. You can google Axon and get information from their site.

Dick

 

[Cue Crazy]

The stuff I use is called "Koa Wood Insulater". It is really a great sealer. Works very well with oily woods such as Cocobolo with no bleeding of the oils into the finish. It is dry to the touch in less than two minutes and has very good adhesion. It is a two part epoxy that is thin and is sprayed onto the cue with a normal gun.

Now that was the good points. It also has bad points. It has a rather short shelf life. The manufacturer says it should be used within six months but actually it lasts over a year. The manufacturer is in Greenville S.C. but they have a minimum order of 300.00. They only have one store that carries their product and that is in Fl. around Daytona I believe. You can call the manufacturer and get more information from them. What they primarly make are paints for airplanes. Their name is Axon Products and tel. # is 864 299-2819. They can give you the information on where to purchase and whatever else you would like to know. You can google Axon and get information from their site.

Dick

Thank You very Much Sir, way more info then I expected, and I really do apprietiate the help, You truelly are one of the good ones. I'm very close to daytona, so that May be the product for me to try, If I can find the location of the store. We have an old family friend that is a pilot with his own plane as well as he had a father that built private planes as a hobby in a old railroad building that he had moved onto his property. As a kid I was always amazed by this little plane he was building In that thing, and loved to hang out over at their place. We know a few that work in the industry here in town also, so one of them may be aware of it's location. My dad once did many years ago also, altough that was a long time ago. If none of them know, or i don't see them before i'm ready to shoot spray, then it should be easy enough to call and find out thanks to the # you provided. Anyway, Thanks again, Greg

 

[Robvandam]

Hello, I missed something, What type of cue is this and where was it made?

William

Its a cocobolo plane cue made by a US custom Cue maker i shal not name names here.

What actually happened is that the finish was done in the US and since i am located in asia, it could be due to the climate change or whatever but the original Finish Cracked up on me.

I was also unable to contact the cuemaker, and thus since it wasnt a very expensive custom to begin with, i decided to embark on refinishing the cue myself ... heh heh ..

 

[bushka]

Its a cocobolo plane cue made by a US custom Cue maker i shal not name names here.

What actually happened is that the finish was done in the US and since i am located in Asia, it could be due to the climate change or whatever but the original Finish Cracked up on me.

I was also unable to contact the cuemaker, and thus since it wasnt a very expensive custom to begin with, i decided to embark on refinishing the cue myself ... heh heh ..

Thanks for the reply. The reason I asked the question, over the last two years I have been seeing a number of import cue from Asia that appeared to be Cocobolo or even rosewood and were not what they appeared to be. When I started to refinish these cues I found out that they had been stained to hide the unsightly properties of the wood that was used. The technique used was very good. I thought that maybe you had the same problem. The way I over came the problem I have outlined was to stain the wood and then quickly apply super glue as a sealer before the stain drys completely, I then applied stain to the super glue sealer and put another coat on top.

William