Does everything need to be cored?

SSDiver2112

SSDiver2112

Escott Cues
If weight control is not an issue are there some woods that don't really need to be cored?
I am not using a full-length core. I am coring each part: forearm, handle, and butt. I am sure a consistent core density will affect the hit so that would also be a factor.

The cue I am working on right now got me thinking. It will have a leather wrap, so the handle is just a maple dowel. I cored it along with the other pieces. I started wondering why I was coring out a piece of maple, only to fill it with a piece of maple. Maybe there is still a benefit to opposing the grains to help reduce warpage?

The maple/maple question came first which led to, if so what about others?

Am I overthinking? Just core everything for consistency? An inquiring mind wants to know.

Thanks,
Scott
 
ratcues said:
Short answer. No. Not everything needs to be cored but there are consequences with some species.
Click to expand...
Not looking for a short cut, I have no problem coring everything. I'm just trying to figure out how to not ruin a cue by trying not to waste time and at the same time not wasting time on unnecessary procedures. if that makes sense.

JoeyInCali said:
There are more species more stable than maple as underwrap.
Click to expand...
That surprises me. I picked maple since it is used so much, plus not liking hiding a beautiful wood under a wrap. Maybe Bocote, purpleheart, or rosewood would be a good choice, but I am just guessing. If so, does that mean they would not need coring?
 
Yes and no...No and yes
There are reasons to core and reasons not to core.
Natural weight is one reason not to core, but might be a reason to core.
It can all be so confusing at times.
One thing I will say about coring....if a properly administered core is properly glued into the the host wood it's hard to beat the stability of said pieces of cored woods.
Turn the grains 90 degrees to each other.
 
ratcues said:
My answer had nothing to do with short cuts. You can build a cue with BEM and not core the forearm. It was done for many, many years. I bet 99% of those cues lived a long healthy life. I've made a living for the past 30 years repairing the other 1%....
Click to expand...
Hey Ryan.... Just curious what type of repairs you find most common on the other 1% so I can make sure I don't fall into that category! ;)
 
I was final sanding a birdseye cue once and noticed it flexing pretty bad. Gave it a good pull and it split in half. Highly figured birdseye, especially if they're large eyes, will always get cored by me. The issue is that the grain is running sideways around the eyes, and if it goes far enough through, it becomes a bad weak spot.
Small eyes and not extremely concentrated, you can get away with not coring. Just my opinion.
 
Sheldon said:
I was final sanding a birdseye cue once and noticed it flexing pretty bad. Gave it a good pull and it split in half. Highly figured birdseye, especially if they're large eyes, will always get cored by me. The issue is that the grain is running sideways around the eyes, and if it goes far enough through, it becomes a bad weak spot.
Small eyes and not extremely concentrated, you can get away with not coring. Just my opinion.
Click to expand...
If you're cutting points in you "might" be able to get away with it. But same as you my rule of thumb has always been coring BE even I am cutting in points.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top