drilling the front end of completed shaft

Mr.Machinist said:
This is what i have done with great results. I mount a dial indicator either in the chuck jaws or on the chuck face. Chuck a center drill in a chuck. Indicate the center drill so the tailstock is dead center. I do this in case the chuck, shank, etc. isn't perfect. And those lines on the tailstock for centering isn't accurate enough to get dead center.
Drill a 5/16" hole 2" deep with a brad point drill. Tip for the drill...i use a grinder and put a very small radius on the corners of the drill. A sharp corner at the bottom of the hole is a weak point. The little radius helps eliminate that. The dowel pin needs the corner rounded so it fits all the way down to the bottom of the hole.
And i use 2 brad point drills. At the end of the drill its a little concave. I use that for the first 1 15/16"
I have another brad point drill that i ground so its about perfectly flat at the end and i grind off most of the point. I use this one for the final 2" depth. This eliminates a glob of glue at the bottom of the tenon.

Yes, i use bamboo for pins. Light and strong.
Turn down a 3/8" bamboo pin to .003 to .005 under the size of the hole. Cut at least 4 really small grooves along the 2" length of the pin so the extra glue can escape. I use the gorilla expanding glue that uses the glue and water to activate. Total finished pin length 2 1/2"
The tenon can be left a 3/8" for ferrule or turned down. I turn mine down to 5/16"
I allow .003 for glue. Less glue results in a better feeling/hitting cue.
Secure the pin so it can't push out as it dries.

I have been using tomahawk ferrules. Light and strong. For the ferrules i use flex gel superglue.

Waa laa. Hits great. And haven't broken anything yet.
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AMAZING
 
Mr.Machinist said:
You might be pushing the limit for a 5/16" hole 3-4 inches deep on a shaft that is 12.60 mm. I would go about 2' deep and use a 1/4" pin. And i wouldn't use it for breaking with. Not much of a point for a low deflection shaft for breaking.
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Mr.Machinist said:
Wouldn't the pin defeat your purpose for low defeflection, You drill it out then ad a pun back. It my estimation you spent a lot of time on that shaft to gain nothing
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Mr.Machinist said:
It helps. That and lighter shorter ferrules. How are other LD shafts made ? Not just smaller diameter shafts.
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deeper bores and really smart people. I'm not saying what your doing doesn't matter, but I've done some screwing around and even going 5 inches and using a light ferrule doesn't get the deflection to where some of these guys get. You've gotta give them credit.
 
Mr.Machinist said:
It helps. That and lighter shorter ferrules. How are other LD shafts made ? Not just smaller diameter shafts.
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A few of the companies are now coring the entire shaft and putting a cf tube in it so it remains strong but looses lots of weight.
Some of them talk about the design of the front end that makes it do the deflecting so the ball doesn't. Some of it is probably snake oil but some of it works.
 
Don't get lots in chasing after deflection, i have played competively for years using the most deflection i could get to my advantange The song says hold on losely and remember where it goes
 
Lowering endmass is the key to lower deflection. Fairly extensive testing was done years ago, and they determined the last 6" of the shaft is the critical area. Which checks out with everything I've learned over the years.
 
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