Dust Extractor

Chili Palmer said:
Honestly, just get the dust deputy and a 5 gallon bucket. When people ask if it works I will open the wet/dry vac and show them a piece of paper inside then turn it on and stick the hose in a large trash bag full of sawdust from my planer for about 10-15 seconds and then open the wet/dry vac again and you can still see the paper. It's not HEPA quality exhaust but it definitely keeps the crap out of the wet/dry vac and in your case you can exhaust it out that window and you get less filter replacements and no dust in the room ;)

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The duct is six inches diameter. So incorporating that into the system wouldn’t work. I was thinking if the duct went into a tub and then back out to the fan the heavier debris will stay in the tub.
 
SSDiver2112 said:
The duct is six inches diameter. So incorporating that into the system wouldn’t work. I was thinking if the duct went into a tub and then back out to the fan the heavier debris will stay in the tub.
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Yep, that would work to an extent. I only recommended that because of the type of fan you're using and would be worried that fan would get full of dust and crap out. I can't tell if there's a filter in front of it?
 
Sheldon said:
I would not trust any system that didn't remove stuff to someplace outside of my shop. This makes heating/cooling a bit harder, since you're replacing instead of recycling air.
I don't care what kind of filters you have, it is probably letting some stuff through.
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What do you use when say, sanding a shaft? Is it a wide openning, like the length of the shaft, that goes into you're duct work and then outside?
 
GoldCrown said:
Nice set up...
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Given I already have the desktop unit I'm wondering if I could make a hood for the back of the unit that goes into 4 inch flexible tubing that I vent out of the house. Given it's in the basment that would pretty much be my max size I think, I'd have to drill a hole and put on a dryer vent.
 
Having used cyclonic and other systems in my shop, I would never use anything with a cloth bag. It just spews dust everywhere and every time you turn it on and the bag pops, it just floods the area with dust. Your cyclone units with a pleated filter do a fantastic job.
 
muskyed said:
Having used cyclonic and other systems in my shop, I would never use anything with a cloth bag. It just spews dust everywhere and every time you turn it on and the bag pops, it just floods the area with dust. Your cyclone units with a pleated filter do a fantastic job.
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Mine does a great job. The cyclone catches all of the big stuff and the pleated filter catches the small stuff. The cleaning mechanism for the pleated filter works well and the fines end up in the bag under the pleated filter. After using it for a full year, and then moving to a new house, when I swept the floor around the unit, I got close to nothing to pick up. Having that and also an air filtration system directly over my workspace seems to do a pretty great job. I do still wear a respirator and agree with John that nothing is 100% if you are recycling the same air versus exhausting it.
 
dendweller said:
Sending it outside is probably better
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If you send it to the outside You also need fresh air coming in or else you create a vacuum. And then at some point the blowing outside no longer has the effect you desire because it depressurize's the area. As much air from the outside needs to come in as you're sending out to get the full effect. So if you use a dryer vent on the outside, you need one on the inside to allow air to come in. And when you're not using your system, the flaps will shut down and your heating and cooling won't be so bad.
 
I've just had an epiphany! For the shop I'm just finishing, I just assumed my makeup air for exhaust would come from outside and challenge my HVAC system (dedicated to the shop) to keep up. So I made the shop its own loop. I felt that the wild temperature and humidity variations of the incoming air would be a problem. Then, after reading this thread, I realized that since the makeup air is always flowing towards the shop, and then to outside, that the makeup air could come from inside the house, which is already at a stable temperature and humidity. DUHH!!!
 
tg_vegas said:
I've just had an epiphany! For the shop I'm just finishing, I just assumed my makeup air for exhaust would come from outside and challenge my HVAC system (dedicated to the shop) to keep up. So I made the shop its own loop. I felt that the wild temperature and humidity variations of the incoming air would be a problem. Then, after reading this thread, I realized that since the makeup air is always flowing towards the shop, and then to outside, that the makeup air could come from inside the house, which is already at a stable temperature and humidity. DUHH!!!
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The ventilation from the house won't be enough, at least you hope not. My boss owns a 3 story cabin and has wood burning stoves for heat. One of the stoves has proper ventilation via dual wall exhaust - the inner space is ventilation. The other stove he installed and he put a 3" hole through the logs for incoming ventilation, even with that there is still a gust of wind when he opens the door. If you have enough ventilation coming from the rest of the house it would mean you have serious air leaks in the home. I would suggest a separate vent in the room you're working in but, then it becomes an issue of heating/cooling that room.
 
tg_vegas said:
I've just had an epiphany! For the shop I'm just finishing, I just assumed my makeup air for exhaust would come from outside and challenge my HVAC system (dedicated to the shop) to keep up. So I made the shop its own loop. I felt that the wild temperature and humidity variations of the incoming air would be a problem. Then, after reading this thread, I realized that since the makeup air is always flowing towards the shop, and then to outside, that the makeup air could come from inside the house, which is already at a stable temperature and humidity. DUHH!!!
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If you pulled air from the house you would need makeup air coming into the house and then the house hvac would have to work harder. Maybe best to keep it to the small shop area.
 
Still zeroing in..... Question... I'm looking at a unit that requires a 20amp breaker. Can the garage door opener outlet(20) be tied into? Would be professionally done not a DIY.
 
If your garage door opener is on a designated 20 amp circuit then you shouldn't have a problem. I would be sure it's not tied together with the other garage outlets.
 
Hard Knock Cues said:
If your garage door opener is on a designated 20 amp circuit then you shouldn't have a problem. I would be sure it's not tied together with the other garage outlets.
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The other outlets are on 15 amp breakers. The 20amp door lift is dedicated. Also it needs a NEMA 5-20 receptacle.
 
GoldCrown said:
Still zeroing in..... Question... I'm looking at a unit that requires a 20amp breaker. Can the garage door opener outlet(20) be tied into? Would be professionally done not a DIY.
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As a person who has worked in the architectural/engineering world I can tell you that your 20amp circuit is designed for 20amps and can't handle any more. As DIY guy who hasn't caught his house on fire - will you be opening the garage door when you're operating that unit?

And as a realist, I suggest you ask that question to the person doing the install and who's license is on the line ;)
 
Chili Palmer said:
And as a realist, I suggest you ask that question to the person doing the install and who's license is on the line ;)
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Gotcha...Absolutely will consult and have it done professionally. Was only having conversation here. The garage door will be up and not touched when using the vac. I never work with the door down.
 
Hard Knock Cues said:
If you pulled air from the house you would need makeup air coming into the house and then the house hvac would have to work harder. Maybe best to keep it to the small shop area.
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So closing the door to the shop (which lacks any hvac vents), running the exhaust out one side and an intake on the other, would solve the hvac problem? Of course the shop would quickly become outside air temperature?
 
kling&allen said:
So closing the door to the shop (which lacks any hvac vents), running the exhaust out one side and an intake on the other, would solve the hvac problem? Of course the shop would quickly become outside air temperature?
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Correct, and if the door has good weather stripping it would also help keep dust out of the house. If you have fresh air intake in the shop with the door not sealed properly then the house hvac could pull dust into the house.

If say I'm sanding Sheetrock in one room I would seal the door with tape and cover all hvac vents so two things happen 1. Air is not coming into the room and pressurizing it. 2. The hvac return is not sucking it out of the room.
If possible I'd put a fan in one window blowing out and open another window for fresh air.
It's kind of the same situation.
 
Hard Knock Cues said:
If your garage door opener is on a designated 20 amp circuit then you shouldn't have a problem. I would be sure it's not tied together with the other garage outlets.
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Spoke to an electrician.... said it will most likely work but it's not proper. I stop here... If I move forward it will be done to code for every reason.
 
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