Early Impressions Of The Diamond Professional

Cuebuddy said:
On the Diamond, try taking some speed off the break.
Instead of 80% taker down to 60%.

Try this in a few locations and see what happens. The way I discovered it was being to lazy to hinge the break cue and just breaking with a pricey playing cue.
I figured I would just open them up, not taking a chance on damaging the playing cue.

Low and behold, 1,2 sometimes 3 on the snap.
Click to expand...

Nick Varner told me to take speed off the break years ago. I've done this on the new Diamond. What usually happens is the wing ball goes and the 1-Ball goes over towards the side pocket. Sometimes it goes, sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes it hits the point and goes back towards the rack and other times it hits past the pocket and then goes downtable.

Either way, I rarely have a runnable rack. Something bad always happens. No shot, snookered, balls in the way, etc, etc.
 
DrCue'sProtege said:
Nick Varner told me to take speed off the break years ago. I've done this on the new Diamond. What usually happens is the wing ball goes and the 1-Ball goes over towards the side pocket. Sometimes it goes, sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes it hits the point and goes back towards the rack and other times it hits past the pocket and then goes downtable.

Either way, I rarely have a runnable rack. Something bad always happens. No shot, snookered, balls in the way, etc, etc.
Click to expand...
Make the head ball then. Copy Filler, Gorst, Ko squared...
 
DrCue'sProtege said:
Nick Varner told me to take speed off the break years ago. I've done this on the new Diamond. What usually happens is the wing ball goes and the 1-Ball goes over towards the side pocket. Sometimes it goes, sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes it hits the point and goes back towards the rack and other times it hits past the pocket and then goes downtable.

Either way, I rarely have a runnable rack. Something bad always happens. No shot, snookered, balls in the way, etc, etc.
Click to expand...

I think you put too much thought/weight into running racks off the break. I am a 700 ish fargo and this is the last thing on my mind. What DOES matter is when you DO get in the balls that you don't screw up and run the rack. If anything, not making balls off the break gives you a good chance to work on your tactical play. I realize thats not something you can quantify like racks ran which you can tell people about it but it is equally important. I can't remember a time in my life where I got frustrated while practicing that I couldn't make balls off the break and run racks, I just play the table how it lays and while still getting to work on the shooting side of the game once you get in the balls.
 
DrCue'sProtege said:
Nick Varner told me to take speed off the break years ago. I've done this on the new Diamond. What usually happens is the wing ball goes and the 1-Ball goes over towards the side pocket. Sometimes it goes, sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes it hits the point and goes back towards the rack and other times it hits past the pocket and then goes downtable.

Either way, I rarely have a runnable rack. Something bad always happens. No shot, snookered, balls in the way, etc, etc.
Click to expand...
Welcome to amatuer pool.
 
straightline said:
I have yet to be in the same building as a Diamond anything. 5 BIH outs is conceivable on Chinese tables even. I'm no player but 10 ball is no Holy Grail either. Anyway my only interest in tables is as learning tools. And my interest in beating anyone at any level is right around zero. Also why I criticize various institutions. Nothing personal. It's all academic.
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Congrats on saying nothing. You sound like an academic
 
miramachine said:
I think you put too much thought/weight into running racks off the break. I am a 700 ish fargo and this is the last thing on my mind. What DOES matter is when you DO get in the balls that you don't screw up and run the rack. If anything, not making balls off the break gives you a good chance to work on your tactical play. I realize thats not something you can quantify like racks ran which you can tell people about it but it is equally important. I can't remember a time in my life where I got frustrated while practicing that I couldn't make balls off the break and run racks, I just play the table how it lays and while still getting to work on the shooting side of the game once you get in the balls.
Click to expand...
If they allowed it I would like this two or three times.
 
DrCue'sProtege said:
Nick Varner told me to take speed off the break years ago. I've done this on the new Diamond. What usually happens is the wing ball goes and the 1-Ball goes over towards the side pocket. Sometimes it goes, sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes it hits the point and goes back towards the rack and other times it hits past the pocket and then goes downtable.

Either way, I rarely have a runnable rack. Something bad always happens. No shot, snookered, balls in the way, etc, etc.
Click to expand...
just played 4 sets with a fairly good player, didn't run any racks, please come and hide sharp objects.
 
DrCue'sProtege said:
Nick Varner told me to take speed off the break years ago. I've done this on the new Diamond. What usually happens is the wing ball goes and the 1-Ball goes over towards the side pocket. Sometimes it goes, sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes it hits the point and goes back towards the rack and other times it hits past the pocket and then goes downtable.

Either way, I rarely have a runnable rack. Something bad always happens. No shot, snookered, balls in the way, etc, etc.
Click to expand...
Record a video of you breaking so we can roast evaluate you.
 
DrCue'sProtege said:
If the 60W bulbs don't help then that is the next step.
Click to expand...
Use 100W-equivalent LED bulbs, which means 1,500 lumens, and generate only 16 watts.

Also you are probably breaking with your shoulder (pectorals and some bicep muscles) and not your hand (supinator and abductors) which give you that acceleration and snap. For the supinator think of the force of quickly twisting a screw-driver to tighten a screw. For the abductors think of grabbing a beer bottle by the neck and trying to rip the cap off with your looped index finger.

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the wattage limits is for the old incandescence bulbs. and led is about a quarter of that. a 100 watt equivalent led is only 23 watts.

its basically a heat thing for the fixtures.

the high k number gives more natural light, can be blueish to some, less yellow like the old bulbs. i use 5000k.
 
nataddrho said:
Use 100W-equivalent LED bulbs, which means 1,500 lumens, and generate only 16 watts.

Also you are probably breaking with your shoulder (pectorals and some bicep muscles) and not your hand (supinator and abductors) which give you that acceleration and snap. For the supinator think of the force of quickly twisting a screw-driver to tighten a screw. For the abductors think of grabbing a beer bottle by the neck and trying to rip the cap off with your looped index finger.

View attachment 894319 View attachment 894321
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why would supinating be a good thing
 
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