Easier way to increase depth of wrap relief than hand sanding, on a warped butt?

T

tg_vegas

Well-known member
I've got a project I'm working on for a friend's cue; one that he is very attached to.

The linen wrap was a mess. He wanted it removed and replaced with an exotic leather wrap and refinish the rest of the cue. I was able to remove the linen and refinish the rest of the butt nicely. Now, on to the installation of the leather.

The relief for the leather needs to be more than the existing relief for the old linen. Simple fix, right? Not so fast. It turns out the butt has from .050 to .080 of runout. If I try to take .015 off the butt with my lathe, the warp will make the cut very one-sided and I'll have leather that fits perfectly in some parts of the butt but stands proud in others.

The only solution I can think of is that I just hand-sand the butt recess the old-fashioned way.

Any of you experts have a better solution?
 
tg_vegas said:
I've got a project I'm working on for a friend's cue; one that he is very attached to.

The linen wrap was a mess. He wanted it removed and replaced with an exotic leather wrap and refinish the rest of the cue. I was able to remove the linen and refinish the rest of the butt nicely. Now, on to the installation of the leather.

The relief for the leather needs to be more than the existing relief for the old linen. Simple fix, right? Not so fast. It turns out the butt has from .050 to .080 of runout. If I try to take .015 off the butt with my lathe, the warp will make the cut very one-sided and I'll have leather that fits perfectly in some parts of the butt but stands proud in others.

The only solution I can think of is that I just hand-sand the butt recess the old-fashioned way.

Any of you experts have a better solution?
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Good morning
A new handle would have been nice but that's beside the point.
Are you trying to do this between Centers?
Do you have a steady rest?
Do you use a taper bar ot do you plan to offset the tailstock?
Possibilities versus your own abilities and capabilities will be the Task!
 
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There's not good way that I know to do this with the cue spinning between centers. You could try to chuck up at each side of the wrap channel and see if it's concentric enough that way to be able to cut to depth and do the rest of the handle with 80 grit sandpaper.
Or you could replace the handle..
 
I've got taper bar and offsetting tailstocks and numerous steady rests. I've tried about all I can think of for ideas.

When I tried the steady rest idea, I put a 4-jaw steady rest on either side of the wrap channel and still had massive runout in the middle. The whole center of this butt is a bit of a bananna.

I considered replacing the handle but the warp is present in the forearm as well.

I think I'm just going to have to use some 80 grit and be patient. Good news is I only need about .015-.025 off.

As others have mentioned in other posts, sometimes it is best to just reject the job. This guy is a good friend so I thought I'd help him out.
 
tg_vegas said:
I've got taper bar and offsetting tailstocks and numerous steady rests. I've tried about all I can think of for ideas.

When I tried the steady rest idea, I put a 4-jaw steady rest on either side of the wrap channel and still had massive runout in the middle. The whole center of this butt is a bit of a bananna.

I considered replacing the handle but the warp is present in the forearm as well.

I think I'm just going to have to use some 80 grit and be patient. Good news is I only need about .015-.025 off.

As others have mentioned in other posts, sometimes it is best to just reject the job. This guy is a good friend so I thought I'd help him out.
Click to expand...
Great on the taper bar.
Put a collet above the wrap, hold that in your chuck, and have a collet inside the spindle for the joint. That might be your most accurate route.
I would not use this method in offsetting the tailstock.
 
If he's a good friend then let him know you need to cut the cue and install a new underwrap and charge accordingly.
Even if he's not a good friend and just a good customer let him know you need to cut the cue and install a new underwrap.
All of the above as long as the forearm isn't part of the warp.
If that's the case, put some linen back on it and hand him the cue.....end of story!
 
BarenbruggeCues said:
If he's a good friend then let him know you need to cut the cue and install a new underwrap and charge accordingly.
Even if he's not a good friend and just a good customer let him know you need to cut the cue and install a new underwrap.
All of the above as long as the forearm isn't part of the warp.
If that's the case, put some linen back on it and hand him the cue.....end of story!
Click to expand...
For my sanity, what is an underwrap?
 
The easiest way I see to do what the customer asked is to sand it, between centers. Turn it pretty slow and use long enough pieces of sandpaper to where you can apply pressure pulling the paper with both hands. OR,,,,,,, You don't HAVE to spin it, take your time and do most of the work on the high side of the warp, effectively sanding some of the warp out...
 
Renegade_56 said:
The easiest way I see to do what the customer asked is to sand it, between centers. Turn it pretty slow and use long enough pieces of sandpaper to where you can apply pressure pulling the paper with both hands. OR,,,,,,, You don't HAVE to spin it, take your time and do most of the work on the high side of the warp, effectively sanding some of the warp out...
Click to expand...
Sand between centers or chucked up near the A-joint?
 
Thanks for all of the advice, I'm going to just sand it down manually and take my time with it. The warp is too bad to spin it.
 
Hard to do a job that you well know it's going to be bad. :) Starting over is so hard to do :)
 
Ended up chucking very close to the wrap ends, turning the shaft a bit too far to get the warp out, and building it back up round with West Epoxy. Sand to diameter and ended up with a nice consistent wrap channel. Wrap went on easy then. Customer happy to pay for extra time and almost all of the warp is gone from the butt.

Thanks for the advice
 
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