Ferrule Replacement

plainbutt

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Which ferrule would a cue repairman typically install on inexpensive cues as a players?

What would be your preference for a lighter and more durable ferrule as the original one has cracked.

Screw on or slip on? I knew of a repairman several years ago that only installed the threaded ones but never knew why.

How much durability would be lost if the ferrule was shortened? Would their be any advantage?

Bottom line what would you install if it was your everyday player?
 
My opinion

Which ferrule would a cue repairman typically install on inexpensive cues as a players?

What would be your preference for a lighter and more durable ferrule as the original one has cracked.

Screw on or slip on? I knew of a repairman several years ago that only installed the threaded ones but never knew why.

How much durability would be lost if the ferrule was shortened? Would their be any advantage?

Bottom line what would you install if it was your everyday player?

First question is how do you want the cue to play? If you want a harder hit you could use Ivorine and if softer you could use XTC or PVC. As far as a threaded ferrule I have done both methods and if done properly neither will fail. One advantage i see to shortening a ferrule would be weight reduction. It will shorten the overall length of your cue since your shaft already has a ferrule on it.
 
Which ferrule would a cue repairman typically install on inexpensive cues as a players?

What would be your preference for a lighter and more durable ferrule as the original one has cracked.

Screw on or slip on? I knew of a repairman several years ago that only installed the threaded ones but never knew why.

How much durability would be lost if the ferrule was shortened? Would their be any advantage?

Bottom line what would you install if it was your everyday player?

IMHO you mix and match the word "players". My first impression was that you were referring to a "Players" brand cue, but then you ask "would you install if it was your everyday player?". My guess is that most on here are like me (nah, make that similar to me :wink:) and would install the ferrule of their choice, knowing the hit characteristics they like and which ferrule/tip combination is likely to give that to them.

For a customer, if I don't know how they play and don't have the opportunity to watch them, then I ask a few questions about what they are currently using and what they would like to change, if anything.

Then I pick something out for them and they try it out If they don't like it, we try something different.

My 2 cents,

Gary
 
In my case,I've been using the Porper injection-molded ferrules on import cues when the original ferrule was threaded on.

If it's a tube type like the old-school Meucci,I use Juma,but have also used the Atlas MP and Elforyn. Word is the quality of the Elforyn has plummeted,so I'll keep using the Juma and Atlas stuff.

If the shaft has a linen or melamine based ferrule on it,I generally don't have to replace them,but have done so on request.

When I change those,I try to use the same stuff or as close as I have.

The Ivorine 3 was good stuff,but no longer available,same as the original Aegis.

Ivorine 4 is unbeatable for durability,but can be ugly and requires carbide tooling.

I still prefer ivory,but have only done one ivory ferrule for a customer in the last 4 years,but I keep blanks on hand.

Some shafts that come to you for ferrule replacement or to change the hit may have a material on them that can't be replicated,such as the coveted Micartas or the stuff on the early Predators.

In cases like that,try to help the customer make an informed decision,based on playability,durability,looks,and in some cases price.

The customer also might want to just try and keep it as close to original as possible too. Tommy D.
 
In my case,I've been using the Porper injection-molded ferrules on import cues when the original ferrule was threaded on.

If it's a tube type like the old-school Meucci,I use Juma,but have also used the Atlas MP and Elforyn. Word is the quality of the Elforyn has plummeted,so I'll keep using the Juma and Atlas stuff.

If the shaft has a linen or melamine based ferrule on it,I generally don't have to replace them,but have done so on request.

When I change those,I try to use the same stuff or as close as I have.

The Ivorine 3 was good stuff,but no longer available,same as the original Aegis.

Ivorine 4 is unbeatable for durability,but can be ugly and requires carbide tooling.

I still prefer ivory,but have only done one ivory ferrule for a customer in the last 4 years,but I keep blanks on hand.

Some shafts that come to you for ferrule replacement or to change the hit may have a material on them that can't be replicated,such as the coveted Micartas or the stuff on the early Predators.

In cases like that,try to help the customer make an informed decision,based on playability,durability,looks,and in some cases price.

The customer also might want to just try and keep it as close to original as possible too. Tommy D.

I have never heard or experienced that with the Elforyn.
Atlas says the MPI is being discontinued.
Ivorine 3 is back. How it compares to what was in the past I don't know.
I like the Juma too. It is cheap and durable, and looks nice.
Genuine ivory speaks for itself as long as it is good quality, which is not hard to find if you know where to look. I don't stock it though.
 
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