Ferrule Types

Agent17

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have been intrigued reading about the numerous ferrule material you guys use.

May I ask has anyone written a detailed list of the types which show the range from 'hard hit' to 'soft hit'.

Or indeed, materials that seem to work better for the low deflection everyone seems obsessed about?

Are there definite 'go to' ferrules that everyone agrees are the best?

Thank you. :smile:
 
There was a thread on here that listed hardness of common materials. Ivory was originally omitted but is listed in a separate thread. Juma seems to be quite popular. There is no 'best' material, only favorites. Each has a strong suit. What is 'best' depends on what you require.
 
I have been intrigued reading about the numerous ferrule material you guys use.

May I ask has anyone written a detailed list of the types which show the range from 'hard hit' to 'soft hit'.

Or indeed, materials that seem to work better for the low deflection everyone seems obsessed about?

Are there definite 'go to' ferrules that everyone agrees are the best?

Thank you. :smile:

Although material is important, maybe more so is ferrule design. By designing a ferrule for what the cue maker is trying to accomplish the material plays a smaller role and the cue maker has more control. Ferrules can have thick walls, thin walls, capped, uncapped, as short as 3/8" to over 1 1/4" and everything in between to no ferrule at all. Now when you combine material with design you get the optimum predictable outcome. Predator is a good example if you have ever seen one apart. I think you can get really hung up on just looking at materials for what you are trying to accomplish.
 
There was a thread on here that listed hardness of common materials. Ivory was originally omitted but is listed in a separate thread. Juma seems to be quite popular. There is no 'best' material, only favorites. Each has a strong suit. What is 'best' depends on what you require.

Thank you, I will try to find that.

What is Juma? Some sort of plastic?

I'm not asking for a definitive 'best' answer as such. I'm just curious to see if there is a concensus of opinion on specific materials and their effect on 'feel' and cueball reaction.

I figured with all the cuemakers on here, I may hear some insights and opinions on ferrule materials based on long term experience.

Although material is important, maybe more so is ferrule design. By designing a ferrule for what the cue maker is trying to accomplish the material plays a smaller role and the cue maker has more control. Ferrules can have thick walls, thin walls, capped, uncapped, as short as 3/8" to over 1 1/4" and everything in between to no ferrule at all. Now when you combine material with design you get the optimum predictable outcome. Predator is a good example if you have ever seen one apart. I think you can get really hung up on just looking at materials for what you are trying to accomplish.

Agreed.

That is exactly what I was hoping to hear about. Cuemakers reasons for favouring certain materials, and indeed designs, if they feel it contributes positively to a particular effect.

I'm also interested to hear what players views are, although I feel cuemakers may give, shall we say, a more balanced opinion :smile:

So, the question is still out there if any cuemaker (or player) cares to offer their thoughts and experiences on ferrule material/design, and what they actually bring to the table apart from preventing the wood splitting.
 

Thank you. That is a very interesting test. And I now know there are far more ferrules than I had heard of :grin:

Although possibly the most boring video I have ever watched :boring2: :D

Now that the relative 'hardnesses' are proven, I would very much like to hear how they actually equate to real measured effects on cueball contact/feel. If any.
 
I put Ivor-x ferrules on all the cues I make. They hit solid, don't get discolored from chalk, and have never had to replace one.
 
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