"Ferrules Like New," Can't Get There!

Raildriver

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Any suggestions on getting ferrules like new would be geatly appreciated. Especially difficult appears to be the linen-based type which always seem to have deep leftover deposits:rolleyes:. Thanks, Raildriver.
 
Raildriver said:
Any suggestions on getting ferrules like new would be geatly appreciated. Especially difficult appears to be the linen-based type which always seem to have deep leftover deposits:rolleyes:. Thanks, Raildriver.

As far as I know there is no material made for specifically for ferrules. We use material meant for other operations and staying clean is useually not a peresquite. Much of the material being used for ferrules is somewhat porus ( Ivorine 111 and Aegis 11 are examples ). When installing these they must be sealed or they will load up with a bunch of black spots. When installing a tip, if any sandpaper is used, then the ferrule must be resealed or it will load up and can't be cleaned without excessive sanding. Bottom line is to make sure they are sealed before use and to reseal after tip installation.

Dick
 
What would you suggest to seal them with Dick? I do my own tips and can't stand a dirty ferrule, have no lathe, and no repair guy anywhere close. So need something I can put on that doesn't need much spinning.
 
ive never tried it but seems like i read somewhere that pearl drops tooth polish worked well on them. Ive used the mr clean magic eraser on mine and it does a pretty good job too.
 
I'd say as far as recleaning that It really depends on the condition of the ferrule as to what means It takes to get them clean, but I aggree with the sealing part as mentioned. some materials you have to seal before you even sand because the sanding dust will get into the pores and stain the ferrule as Dick mentioned, and some material just come with black specks in It Due to manufacturing dificulties, or the fact that material was originally made for something that was not dependent on color consistency.

Sealer, I have used both the shaft sanding sealer mix, and Ca. I prefer the Ca. This info is more for the cue repair person though, not something that a player should do to their cue.

I use the magic "E" cleaners ocasionally for tuff cleanings, but use a cleaning mixture I came up with also in conjuction with it, and it does as much of the work as the eraser does.


Greg
 
To clean the Ferrule a dab of toothpaste on your thumb and work it into the ferrule. The chalk litterally dissolves, wipe clean with a paper towel. and seal with shaft sealer or even cue silk if you don't have anything else.
The IVOR-X ferrules are the cleanest that I have used. Chalk doesn't hardly stick to them.
 
cuemaker03 said:
Melimine (LBM) stays very clean, try those.
LBM or glass melamine?
Glass melamine stayed much cleaner than LBM. LBM already looks like the old white chalk off the bag from Atlas.
Ivor-X stays the cleanest though.
www.Ivor-X.com
 
I could have sworn I posted here before....:confused: ...anyways I found the best for me is too use Bleche-White...the stuff for cleaning tires...just a little dab on a napkin spin it with the napkin around the ferrule...just don't get any on the wood...follow up with some water on another napkin...then seal the ferrule with sanding sealer or Q-slick....this is what I've been doing on my personal cue and it doesn't get as chalked up as fast....BTW never use chalk that worn to the point of putting the infamous blue ring on ferrules....LOLz
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cubswin said:
What would you suggest to seal them with Dick? I do my own tips and can't stand a dirty ferrule, have no lathe, and no repair guy anywhere close. So need something I can put on that doesn't need much spinning.
I use super glue thin. I would be willing to clean and seal them for you. Give me a call, if you want to come over and have it done, sometime around the 25th or so. I'll be at the SBE this weekend. :)

Tracy
 
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