forearm question

Dave38

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
Any suggestions as to the best way to remove a forearm without damaging the rest of the butt? It is one that I am building and I severly messed up the forearm after I attached it to the handle section. (A runaway router:eek: )My idea is to drill a hole in the forearm, down to the bolt, then insert a soldering gun and heat the bolt, then unscrew it. There isn't any finish on it yet. Thanks for any input guys.
Dave
 
If you cut the forearm off just past the pin, you can use your cutting tools to shave off right up to the pin. Then you should be able to clean up the threads and just use the pin that's already in the handle (assuming your tenon is in the handle section. If it's reversed, you could do the same, then heat the pin to remove it.
 
Tony Zinzola said:
If you cut the forearm off just past the pin, you can use your cutting tools to shave off right up to the pin. Then you should be able to clean up the threads and just use the pin that's already in the handle (assuming your tenon is in the handle section. If it's reversed, you could do the same, then heat the pin to remove it.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I was thinking that also, but then the heat idea came and wasn't sure which would be better. Your way sounds better, especially if I can reuse the original pin. I'll try it tomorrow.
Dave
 
I've done it like that before and it worked fine. I just used something pointed to clean up the threads in the pin that was there.
 
Is it an underwrap handle?

If it is and it were mine I probably would just chuck it and start over. By the time you fudge around with it you probably have as much time in it as a new one.

Save the back for the new cue.......



<~~~hates run away routers............
 
BarenbruggeCues said:
Is it an underwrap handle?

If it is and it were mine I probably would just chuck it and start over. By the time you fudge around with it you probably have as much time in it as a new one.

Save the back for the new cue.......



<~~~hates run away routers............
Click to expand...

It's 3 redwood burl sleeves separated with ebony rings and white and black thin rings with a purpleheart core, so I'd like to save the butt if possible. The forearm has redwood burl points into ebony, but the diamater has been altered greatly in various spots along the path:( bad router,Bad!
 
Tony Zinzola said:
If you cut the forearm off just past the pin, you can use your cutting tools to shave off right up to the pin. Then you should be able to clean up the threads and just use the pin that's already in the handle (assuming your tenon is in the handle section. If it's reversed, you could do the same, then heat the pin to remove it.
Click to expand...

right on. ijust did this a week ago. worked out great
 
Dave38 said:
It's 3 redwood burl sleeves separated with ebony rings and white and black thin rings with a purpleheart core, so I'd like to save the butt if possible. The forearm has redwood burl points into ebony, but the diamater has been altered greatly in various spots along the path:( bad router,Bad!
Click to expand...


Makes it a little more understanding why you would like to do it this way.
Like mentioned....Should be no problem chucking up with the fore hanging out and clean up down to the exsiting pin.
Here is the fun part...reassembling with no sizable run out to keep everything concentric. Making sure both faces are dead nuts when you return them back together. If you have done your fun correctly it should runout with less than .001 at the reassembled joint when between centers.


<~~~has spanked more than one router for being bad......
 
BarenbruggeCues said:
Makes it a little more understanding why you would like to do it this way.
Like mentioned....Should be no problem chucking up with the fore hanging out and clean up down to the exsiting pin.
Here is the fun part...reassembling with no sizable run out to keep everything concentric. Making sure both faces are dead nuts when you return them back together. If you have done your fun correctly it should runout with less than .001 at the reassembled joint when between centers.


<~~~has spanked more than one router for being bad......
Click to expand...
Well the surgury went well yesterday, the hardest part was cleaning the pin. I used a scribe and kept heating it up with a small flame then scraping out the epoxy. came out really clean.What really sucks is I have to make a whole new forearm. I had forgot that I had the power crossfeed knob engaged. I then turned on the lathe, and engaged the leadscrew to take the first small pass on the butt after joining the 2 pieces. Needless to say, It started to go in as it was going to the left. I panicked, and it only got worst:( It was a nice piece of ebony. O well, we live and we learn(hopefully)
Dave
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top