GC III - Seeking info from those who've done it

remhab

remhab

Registered
Been looking for a used table for over a month now and the thing that looks best to me - after studying up here - is an 8' GC III. An ex hall owner has 4 or 6 9' II & III's and 2 8' III for sale. They're all dissambled and in storage - I didn't know much when I looked at 'em. The're all packed and stacked so I couldn't see much without moving lots of heavy stuff. What I did see was a couple of the 8' rails - felt and formica looked good - but I didn't know to look for problems with the floating nuts or pocket & apron fastners - do now 'cause of AZ. Rubber felt OK to my still uneducated thumb. Slate stored standing on edge - looked at 2 of 3 pieces of slate - one had a small fresh scratch less than 2'' long and not 1/32 wide or deep - other fine. Could see only edges of all other pieces which looked ok. Aprons have "character" - lots of scratches and dents from life in a hall - but were sound and still have good gloss. Couldn't see much of the legs - way in the back - but they appeared ok. No finish left on pocket casting or feets but sound - rail trim looked bad do to lack of finsih. All cabinets assembled and stacked so I couldn't see much. Critical parts are all labled so they should get back together as intended. No pockets or gully parts for any of the tables. Stored in southern Florida in an unconditioned space.

Now some questions. Any problems I should look for do to storage? Tables are nearly 100 miles from me so if I go for one - after further inspection - I'd move it myself using a 6 x 12 uhaul trailer - how do I arrange and secure the slate for the move. Table will stand on a tile floor - should it have anything tween the feets and the floor? Use the $65 or $125 pockets? Really don't like the formica rails - the're not bad worn - just plastic and I don't like it. What are my chances of finding a second set of rails that I could reveneer and edge trim in wood? How do you remove the formica? Wouldn't it attempt on the orginal rails in case of snafu! Might even make new rails starting with bought out sub rails. Is there a source for K-55 subs or would I have to go with K-66 subs? Got good wood working tools/skills.

Thanx in advance for helpin out a newbee.

remhab

ps: tables are on craigslist - florida - space coast - listed 11/22
 
Gc

How much for the table on craigs list? I have two over sized GC 3 in storage... 8' for sale in good shape...if ur gonna use a trailer to haul slates I suggest using a trailer like the one glen is using to haul tables and parts...its modified' with tall sides so u can stand the slates up and strap em in...
-
Rob.M
 
Uhaul trailer, straps on every rail to lock into place, one at a time so that you have multiple straps holding everything together in place. If you get a 12 trailer, you can also leave the frame together for easier transport and if you strap it up good and tight, will help back up the slate. Not that it moves much unless you are hitting alot of bumpy roads or are going 4wheeling. Wrap the rest in blankets, a little duct tape on the outside will help keep things together on the inside, then strap 'em down, and hit the road.
Key ingredient....straps,straps straps..... and thread the straps through the eyes in the hooks, they will bind better and not slide on the rails.

Area rugs are common on tile floors to put the table on, you can also use carpet remnants, rubber pads, and a variety of other things put down on the forums in the past. You can always contact Ken Hash and see what he has available for rails as well.
Good thing about GC's, you always have a good variety of options when you want to do something different to them.
 
Hey Cue

Would go with the 12 because it's got bigger doors, height, and cargo area than the smaller cargos and is the same $. Planned on lots o' straps and/or 1 or 2 x wood screwed to the trailer floor to keep the slate and cabinet from moving. Padded with cut up carpet squares. Having trouble deciding weather to go flat or on edge - stacked or singles - on the floor or on 1 or 2 x - seems folks have been successful lots ways. Maybe I'm making too big a deal of it - but I've never moved slate before and sure don't want to damage it. Definately would wrap the rails, legs and stringer - but just throw in the aprons - don't think they could get more beat up looking! Haven't decided to buy one of these yet - still looking - but the info will help with whatever I go for.

Thanx for your input,

remhab
 
moving a CGIII

remhab said:
Don't have the $ resources to custom build a trailer to haul 1 table. Looking to work with what's available. Iowa is way to far away for me to consider.

Below is the link to these tables. Owner is asking $850 - says firm.

http://spacecoast.craigslist.org/spo/1477396779.html
Click to expand...

I just recently bought a GCIII and moved the whole thing in my 2001 Ford Escape, but no passenger. Placed a blanket between each slat flat in the back, re-assembled at home , and no problems encountered
Regards
Walter
 
I move 9' tables all the time in my Chevy z-71.
Strap the slate down and put the table over it, wrap and tape the rails and blinds, or wrap the rails and put them on to the back seat, strap things down and you can still cover it afterwards if you want.
I get the 12' trailers when I need to because it's easier to get out of when you're putting the table in...lol
A little more room to move around in, more room to give yourself when your strapping things down, and you can add more gameroom stuff at the same time if they have racks, chairs, etc....
I have a 16' trailer that I use most of the time with a drop ramp on it, but I pretty much set it up as a mobile shop as well in the front, so I'm basically using 12-13 feet for table space.
I added in steel tubing and more anchor points and tubes for feather strips over head, with drop shelves to put more sets of rails and other pieces, but the same principles apply regardless.
If you have room to put them into a truck, then do that since the suspension is easier on a long drive for your slate, if not get a trailer that pulls better because of it's size, and you'll appreciate having just that little bit of extra room to work with.
If you go with laying them flat on the floor, put some 2x4's at least under it, (3-4 works) and if you have some packing blankets pad each slate, then you can run a strap or two around everything to lock it down together to keep it from moving on you on the road.
And it's alot easier to pick up slate if you have somewhere to get your fingers under than on a flat surface-
screwing down the 2x4's is a good call when standing it up on the wall.
Sounds like you have it all dialed in already, now go find your table!:grin:
 
Thanx to both Cue's.

Yea, I think I've got a good idea of how I'll go about a move. As you said, now, just find a table!

My mind hurts thinking about the alternatives - and nothin's shown up close to me that gets my heart beat up - the gc iii's a hundred miles off in my first post still seem like an ok deal - but by the time I get pockets and finish on the castings - I'll still have real beat-up blinds and plastic finish rails! I've seen ads for 2 different Metalists about 150 miles from me - both with plastic on the rails and neither had pictures to send - one wants to be paid before I could look under the cloth. There's also 2 different Sport Kings I've only seen ads about - one looks like new in old pics - its apart with slate crated and a current photo of 1 rail looks as good as the old pic. The other King - I think its a King - is all painted up with rock graphics and is for sale as "art work" I guess - after I spoke with her, the owner didn't keep a comitment to call back with size/model confirmation info and to set up a visit when I went thru her area this weekend - her choice of time and day - craigslist flake! Nuf of this -

'preciate your input

remhab
 
Something will come along eventually. Give it time.
If you go after something just to fill a need to have a table you may be disappointed in the long run.
 
remhab said:
Thanx to both Cue's.

Yea, I think I've got a good idea of how I'll go about a move. As you said, now, just find a table!

My mind hurts thinking about the alternatives - and nothin's shown up close to me that gets my heart beat up - the gc iii's a hundred miles off in my first post still seem like an ok deal - but by the time I get pockets and finish on the castings - I'll still have real beat-up blinds and plastic finish rails! I've seen ads for 2 different Metalists about 150 miles from me - both with plastic on the rails and neither had pictures to send - one wants to be paid before I could look under the cloth. There's also 2 different Sport Kings I've only seen ads about - one looks like new in old pics - its apart with slate crated and a current photo of 1 rail looks as good as the old pic. The other King - I think its a King - is all painted up with rock graphics and is for sale as "art work" I guess - after I spoke with her, the owner didn't keep a comitment to call back with size/model confirmation info and to set up a visit when I went thru her area this weekend - her choice of time and day - craigslist flake! Nuf of this -

'preciate your input

remhab
Click to expand...

Hi remhab, I have had some hard times with the GC III's,I'd stick with the Sport King before settling for a GC III. The receptacles that the rail bolts and castings go into on the GC III are pretty cheesy compared to the older GC's or the Sport King.The design of the corner castings on the GC III is not as good either.Just my experience....
 
Dartman
9 Ball

Thanx to both for your input. This is a great forum!

I'm not going to jump on a table to satisify a need for sure. Don't really need a table - just really want one! I'm trying to do due diligence before the buy - studing up here is part of that.

I've seen some discussions here about problems with the gc iii and how to correct - if the damage is not too bad - again part of the learning process for me - for both what to look for and how to fix it.

Never touched on a Sport King that I can recall - and gotta say I don't much care for it's painted blinds and - I think - legs. Much prefer the look of wood. The sport king seller says it's rails are wood - a plus for me - and I understand formica is more durable. The table available appears to be too nice an orginal to mess with stripping and refinishing the blinds and legs. Were both wood and formica rail finish options on the sport king? May take the ride to look at this.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top