Getting a table soon, need some help.

stolz2

stolz2

Kid Mack
Silver Member
I finally got my girlfriend to agree on me getting a table. Only bad part is it will have to be a bar box. I want to make the pockets tight, would 3.5 inches be to tight? Or should I go with just under 4 inches?

Also does anyone know of "cheaper" brands that are still decent i dont have a whole lot of money to spend but also dont want to end up with a real junker table... something that will be good for 2-3 years until i can save up for a good big track table.

Also what is a good cheaper alternative to simonis 860 or is there?

And my main concern is what demensions does my room need to be bare minimum to fit a bar box in?

Thanks, Mack
 
Hope this helps...

Go to olhausen's webcite they will have a room dimension chart on there. I do not know if they can shim a pocket to those specifications. YOu might have to have custom rails, which can get pricey if possible at all. There are several alternative to simonis, championship to name one, you would have to talk to the guys who are doing the work. Tiger makes a good cheap table. However, you might consider getting a used dyomo or valley. A good used table would be better than a new cheap table. The rails on cheap tables really diminish the playability. Just remember you get what you pay for. Shop around, do your homework don't buy a piece of crap you will regret it.

Later,
Marcus


stolz2 said:
I finally got my girlfriend to agree on me getting a table. Only bad part is it will have to be a bar box. I want to make the pockets tight, would 3.5 inches be to tight? Or should I go with just under 4 inches?

Also does anyone know of "cheaper" brands that are still decent i dont have a whole lot of money to spend but also dont want to end up with a real junker table... something that will be good for 2-3 years until i can save up for a good big track table.

Also what is a good cheaper alternative to simonis 860 or is there?

And my main concern is what demensions does my room need to be bare minimum to fit a bar box in?

Thanks, Mack
Click to expand...
 
I would probably go with under 4 inches. BUT, if you do get 3.5, then if u can run racks on it, youll have no problems with normal tables.

General rule of thumb is that you want 5 feet of space between the table and a wall. Even then its a bit tight so if you have more room, then even better.
 
seiyaryu55 said:
I would probably go with under 4 inches. BUT, if you do get 3.5, then if u can run racks on it, youll have no problems with normal tables.

General rule of thumb is that you want 5 feet of space between the table and a wall. Even then its a bit tight so if you have more room, then even better.
Click to expand...

To be more precise, in case you are skimpy on space and trying to make it work.........most cue sticks are 56", a little less than 5'. What you need is slightly more than 5' from the play side of the cushion to the wall. So, if a cue ball is frozen to the rail, and you're shooting in a direction perpendicular to that rail, (the tip of the cue against the cue ball right at the rail), then you need 56" (length of stick) plus stroke length from there. 5'2" - 5'4" from the play side of the cushion is probably bare minimum.
 
Teacherman said:
To be more precise, in case you are skimpy on space and trying to make it work.........most cue sticks are 56", a little less than 5'. What you need is slightly more than 5' from the play side of the cushion to the wall. So, if a cue ball is frozen to the rail, and you're shooting in a direction perpendicular to that rail, (the tip of the cue against the cue ball right at the rail), then you need 56" (length of stick) plus stroke length from there. 5'2" - 5'4" from the play side of the cushion is probably bare minimum.
Click to expand...

ya maybe i will just get a good used table.

Thanks, Mack
 
you don't want to go with anything less that 4 inches on the corners.

i wouldn't go less than a little under 4.5 if i were you.

reasong being that you will NOT learn how to cheat the pocket. you want the table to be tighter than most for your shotmaking, but not so tight that you don't learn how to cheat the pocket. there are some shots that CAN ONLY BE DONE by cheating the pocket and you will not learn these.

i can guarantee that someone that practices on 4.5 pockets will beat someone who only practices on 3.5 pockets.

VAP
 
Stolz2

If you want the Championship cloth to play like Simonis 860, when your re-clothing the table, have the cloth pulled as tight as possible. It will make the table lighting fast. I learned that about two weeks ago lol. Plus i have heard it makes the cloth last longer.


As for the table, if you have a pool hall in your area that uses 7ft Valley's see about buying one from them. Or ask them if they know of anyone who is selling used tables.
 
stolz2 said:
I finally got my girlfriend to agree on me getting a table. Only bad part is it will have to be a bar box. I want to make the pockets tight, would 3.5 inches be to tight? Or should I go with just under 4 inches?

Thanks, Mack
Click to expand...
A bar box with pockets shimmed to 4 in or less is going to take a bunch of plastic! That is probably going to play a little odd, wouldn't even consider it myself. Changing to longer rails will run the cost up, maybe if you have to change the rails anyway it would be worth doing. 4 1/2 inch for corner pockets is plenty tight IMHO.
 
One other thought..

A bar box will be a bit more expensive than a regular table due to the fact that you are paying for the internal machinary that collects coins and releases the balls. You might consider getting a 7 foot olhausen reno. This is a great table that you can pick up for about 1800 dollars.

Marcus
 
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