Glue to use and tips for a predator ferrule change.

Kimmo H.

Kimmo H.

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
What glue do you cue makers use for ferrule replacement for predator shafts?

I have a 314'2 that needs the ferrule replaced, I already have some Tomahawk ferrule material en route. I have the required tools and know how to make my own ferrules fit right as I work as a machinist. I havent done a predator ferrule before, and thats why I'm asking for a bit of help :smile:
Is there anything special to a ferrule chnge like this? Fitment should be something in the 0.05mm range loose, I suppose? Should I make a small hole on the end of it to relieve pressure from the hollow when gluing on the new ferrule? When removing the old ferrule, I just turn it down slowly until it tears right off without touching the shaft itself?

I really want to do stuff like this myself as I have all the equipment needed so please help me out here a little :embarrassed2:

You can also PM me if you dont want to post here :wink:

I'll post some pics once I get to it, it will take a while as the material comes from overseas etc. but eventually there will be some pictures of the repair work :rolleyes:
 
There was a great article on predator and Ob ferrules and I'm sure a lot of people will chime in on their favorite glues and epoxies for the ferrule. Predator ferrules are completely different from any other and are not level as they have 2 levels and a hollow tenon. I pulled this from that great article on here. Hope this helps.

Cue repair / articles
http://www.kendocues.com/Websted/Cue_repair___articles.html
 
I recommend using Isoplast for the ferrule, it's the lightest and strongest material out there. It will maintain the low deflection quality of the shaft very close to original design. I use west systems 105/205 to glue these on. Don't use any 5 minute glue on this repair, as the glue is the only thing that really holds the ferrule on.
Dave
 
Dave38 said:
I recommend using Isoplast for the ferrule, it's the lightest and strongest material out there. It will maintain the low deflection quality of the shaft very close to original design. I use west systems 105/205 to glue these on. Don't use any 5 minute glue on this repair, as the glue is the only thing that really holds the ferrule on.
Dave
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Please quantify this portion of your statement, with some physical, or structural comparison. Not to mention, there are several different grades of "isoplast," that vary in terms of strength, color, availability, cost, etc.
Regards.
j2
 
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I will experiment with the Tomahawk ferrule first and I'm feeling pretty confident in it judging from the online reviews on it :)

Will see how it holds up as this particular application is known to be quite the test for ferrule material durability. I ordered some Devcon 2ton epoxy for the installation, thanks to the recommendation of the same kind gentleman who sold me the actual material used.

I'll keep this thread posted once I get all the required materials here. Untill then, please feel free to point out anything you may see as valuable information to consider in a job like this. I have heard quite a few horror stories about 314'2 ferrules so I'm listening very carefully to any guidance provided to me from more experienced workers :wink:
 
j2pac said:
Please quantify this portion of your statement, with some physical, or structural comparison. Not to mention, there are several different grades of "isoplast," that vary in terms of strength, color, availability, cost, etc.
Regards.
j2
Click to expand...

I am not about to get into a pissing contest with someone who is marketing a product. I was simply answering a members question to the best of my ability based on my experience.
My experience has shown, while machining your material, and the isoplast I have realized that the strings or ribbons coming off the cutter are harder to break and or pull apart with the isoplast than they are with your material. That shows strength. The weight of your material is also heavier than the isoplast, which when doing a low deflection replacement, as the OP is doing, is a VERY important detail, low weight, high strength, low deflection. Not saying anything bad about your product, but when doing a low deflection ferrule replacement, some materials are better suited than others, and I don't see yours as a direct replacement and still maintain the original design. Your product is good, but you should know what it's limitations are and sell accordingly, rather than using a blanket approach that it fits all applications, then get defensive when someone suggests a different opinion.
Dave
 
Dave38 said:
I am not about to get into a pissing contest with someone who is marketing a product. I was simply answering a members question to the best of my ability based on my experience.
My experience has shown, while machining your material, and the isoplast I have realized that the strings or ribbons coming off the cutter are harder to break and or pull apart with the isoplast than they are with your material. That shows strength. The weight of your material is also heavier than the isoplast, which when doing a low deflection replacement, as the OP is doing, is a VERY important detail, low weight, high strength, low deflection. Not saying anything bad about your product, but when doing a low deflection ferrule replacement, some materials are better suited than others, and I don't see yours as a direct replacement and still maintain the original design. Your product is good, but you should know what it's limitations are and sell accordingly, rather than using a blanket approach that it fits all applications, then get defensive when someone suggests a different opinion.
Dave
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Wow Dave, pissing contest, defensive...really? I simply asked you for some clarification, based on a blanket statement that you made, regardless of your experience, which I do NOT question, because in fact, I DO know my product. I have looked at the numbers regarding Isoplast, and there are several different variations as I stated. Some do appear to be minimally lighter, and some do not. Most versions also do not appear to show the strength gain that you claim. You told the OP to use a certain material without explaining some VERY important details, such as cost, the particular grade, availability, etc...which is why I asked you for a few specifics. I am sorry that I ruffled your feathers, but when you suggest that I don't know my product, or it's "limitations," you kind of ruffle mine. The cue-makers that have used my product for Predator or LD replacements have been nothing but happy, based on my experience concerning their feedback. :cool:
Best regards.
Joe P.
 
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