Subscribed for thoughts on this topic.1-Put more attention. Towards flushing the corner castings. I think I have a handle on this one but will accept any advice anyone can give.
Subscribed for thoughts on this topic.
Thanks OP,
Keith
I looked at and played on a GC5 that was for sale. It played good and looked good for the most part. Three "proud" castings didn't do anything positive for the looks of the table and made me cautious when cueing over them. It seems like that is something that would be noticed and corrected at the factory.My GC 4 pockets do the same. They don't contact the facings anywhere but still are "pushed" in about an 1/8" on the corners of the pockets where the tips are.
I'd rather have my castings flush, but do t see how it's conceivably possible, since everything bolted up so we'll and there was no play up or down when putting together the box and skirts so to speak.
Well actually all the facings don't need to be removed, the cloth just needs to be unstapled at the end and possibly a few staples underneath to loosen the end of the cloth, expose the facing and cut a little bit off of it with a razor blade, like maybe an 1/8th inch in my case and then replace and staple the cloth. One guy I talked to said that maybe I can do it without taking the rails off, but if not then he recommended leaving the whole rail ass'y and castings put together and flip it over so you can loosen a few of the bottom staples. I haven't gotten around to trying anything yet.I used all the methods described to get the castings and the ears as flush as I could. The castings will not sit perfectly flush or at 1/16” as described by the Brunswick rep. So you actually have to do a touch of rail trimming where the casting meets the rail. I tried the boiling of the liners to get them flexible and although that worked temporarily it did not entirely fix the issue with the dog ears wanting to stick out. Part of the issue is when you cover the rails you pull the material back towards the throat of the rail where it meets the casting. This creates a gap between the rail and the liners. So what I found that works is if you loosen the two Allen bolts a little and then bend the ears in (a very mild fold sorta speak) and tuck the edge as of the liners under the facings then tighten the bolts up it comes really close. Then I just put a drop of super glue where the ears meet the castings. Seemed to work for me. Another poster said he couldn’t tuck them in. If that’s the case then the facings that were put on protrude too far back. And therefore the only thing I can think of is that the facings must be replaced and moved forward a touch. That sucks because it means recovering the rails.
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Well actually all the facings don't need to be removed, the cloth just needs to be unstapled at the end and possibly a few staples underneath to loosen the end of the cloth, expose the facing and cut a little bit off of it with a razor blade, like maybe an 1/8th inch in my case and then replace and staple the cloth. One guy I talked to said that maybe I can do it without taking the rails off, but if not then he recommended leaving the whole rail ass'y and castings put together and flip it over so you can loosen a few of the bottom staples. I haven't gotten around to trying anything yet.