Good air filter?

Filters are good

But work more effectively near the gun. That gives the air time to cool down. I used to paint cars and needed a moisture trap at both the compressor and at my belt. The belt trap collected way more moisture than the trap further upstream! High volume users need to install an air chiller in line to cool the air to avoid moisture staying a vapor. It looks like an air conditioner but only cools the air that is compressed. That device gives amazing results. But I find to spray a few cues now and then I do not need such extremes. I did find when I tried to insulate my compressor to quiet it down, I added more heat to my compressed air and I had more moisture problems. Just wanted to add my two cents.
 
I HAVE A REALLY GOOD ONE, that i could let go if your intrested? it has a cooling line and everything i bought it for my new air compressor (which i recently sold) and i havent really used it much. i paint motorcycles in the summer and used to be a painter in a body shop and its probably one of the best ive ever had PM me if your intrested ill trade for something ie. couple pieces of wood whatever, im not using it.
 
A little expensive..but IMO desiccant is the only way to go. I'm in the same boat here.....enclosed my compressor to kill the noise and added to the heat which added to the moisture. I have one coming right out of the tank to try to keep the lines clean and I have another going to the spray area. It may be over kill but I also use an in-line desiccant trap at the bottom of the gun.
 
I provide large equipment to various industries (my day job). I have lots of experience with large air systems for plant air. Norgren makes some nice moisture seperator/air filter combinations that work very well. I have lots of their F17 series in operation today that have been running for over 20 years. They are available with automatic moisture relief valves that will spit out the water automatically eliminating the need to have to manually dump your water. These may be an alternative. You can find them here:

http://www.norgren.com/usa/
 
Thnx for all the tips so far.
How about filtering the air before it gets to the tank?
 
filtering

Joey: If you mean filtering the air right out of the compressor, that is not efficient because the heat of compression insures that the moisture is a vapor and it will pass through filters, unless you can cool it down sufficiently for the vapor to turn back into a liquid. That is why a moisture trap on my belt captured way more water than one right next to the tank. The air is cooler the further it is from the compressor. It is given time to release some of that heat to the surrounding air when it has to travel through the hose and piping to reach me and the spray gun. Then the moisture can drop out and be collected. If it is allowed to pass unfiltered it will cause your spray gun to spit and sputter.
You can make your own cooler if you can get a large coil of 3/8 copper tubing to connect between the compressor and your spray gun, have a fan blow cool air over the wound up coils to allow the compressed air to transfer its heat to the ambient air. Then have a water separator in the line between this coil and your spray gun. A lot of the moisture will get trapped. Never all of it, but way more than if you used just the trap and no cooler. I did try this in the past and it worked. But anyone just spraying a few cues should not need all of these precautions unless you are in a warm and very humid environment. Belt clips are made for water separators and short 4 foot hoses to go from that to your gun. That should be all that most cuemakers will ever need. And of course drain moisture from the tank just before you spray.
 
olsonsview said:
Joey: If you mean filtering the air right out of the compressor, that is not efficient because the heat of compression insures that the moisture is a vapor and it will pass through filters, unless you can cool it down sufficiently for the vapor to turn back into a liquid. That is why a moisture trap on my belt captured way more water than one right next to the tank. The air is cooler the further it is from the compressor. It is given time to release some of that heat to the surrounding air when it has to travel through the hose and piping to reach me and the spray gun. Then the moisture can drop out and be collected. If it is allowed to pass unfiltered it will cause your spray gun to spit and sputter.
You can make your own cooler if you can get a large coil of 3/8 copper tubing to connect between the compressor and your spray gun, have a fan blow cool air over the wound up coils to allow the compressed air to transfer its heat to the ambient air. Then have a water separator in the line between this coil and your spray gun. A lot of the moisture will get trapped. Never all of it, but way more than if you used just the trap and no cooler. I did try this in the past and it worked. But anyone just spraying a few cues should not need all of these precautions unless you are in a warm and very humid environment. Belt clips are made for water separators and short 4 foot hoses to go from that to your gun. That should be all that most cuemakers will ever need. And of course drain moisture from the tank just before you spray.
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Props.
thanks
 
You can get a multi stage turbine pretty reasonably these days. It blows warm dry air. I bought an accuspray 2040 for 600.00 used but in good condition. Totally self contained. Just a thought.
 
turbine always

Yes a turbine is the way to go .No water, always the same pressure, and low noise.....We installed a keiser compressor at the cabinet shop that I manage, with a refrigerant air dryer, surgical quality air they call it ,but very expensive.........For turbine you need a good hand piece gravity feed is best.......Ray
 
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