Haas machining training videos

Ive used haas mills and lathes throughout my career we have 5 mills and one lathe at my current job
Threads are neat

Guy i worked with had the most genious method of knowing the rpm and feed

Usually youd have to guess an rpm you knew would work and divide the feed into it to make it work the feed has to be equally divisible by the pitch or the timing will be off and the tap will cross thread itself

One inch 8 tap
Id fiddle with a calculator for a bit
97 rpm divided by 8 well that gives 12.125
we want to have no decimals generally for tapping feed
So then id try 96 rpm divided by 8, givez 12 which will work


But the easiest way is the feed rate is always 10ipm
And the rpm is the pitch

.25-20 is 200 rpm 10feed
1-8 80 rpm 10feed
3/8-16 160 rpm 10feed
1/2-13 130 rpm 10feed
Its not the fastest, but it will ALWAYS work

And it gets a little more complicated though with mwtric taps you have to convert

I just did a 30mm x 3.5 tap
So now you need to convert only the pitch 3.5
I always multiply, gives less digits than dividing
1 mm equals .03937
.03937 x 3.5= 0.137795 so you can round that to .138

Then you divide that .138 by 1 and it makes 7.24637681159

And we just move the decimal back one place and our rpm is 72 feed is still 10

I dont know all the actual logic to that calculation, i just know it works because i have written down all the examples of my metric tapping and it works
 
Threading is different on a lathe

On a mill, the rpm and feed have to be in tune
For a lathe you can choose any rpm, as long as its not too fast to whip the part out of the machine,burn the insert, or crack it, theres usually a massive window of where your ok in the middle

I just always use 100rpm because i know if its inconel or is its aluminum, itll work, not the fastest but it works
My background is in job shops not mass production

8 threads per inch the feed is .125
The feed is whats important on a lathe
12 tpi is .0833

4 tpi is .25

Divide the pitch by 1


16tpi÷1 =.0625
 
And even crazier is multiple start threads :0
I only did one but it was a 6.5 inch od 130 inches long

32 mm trapezoidal double start
You gotta double the feed, and run 2 threads
The second ia offset out from the original start point by the feed

Really kool, but a real big pima as well
 
Texas Carom Club said:
And even crazier is multiple start threads :0
I only did one but it was a 6.5 inch od 130 inches long

32 mm trapezoidal double start
You gotta double the feed, and run 2 threads
The second ia offset out from the original start point by the feed

Really kool, but a real big pima as well
Click to expand...
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Thanks for posting, I would like to see more Machinists comment in here.

I recall going thru some mathematics and safety items before ever being allowed to touch a lathe or mill. I could thread steel on a full size lathe when I was a teenager back in the stone ages.

Post more often and Thanks again, Dave.
 
CuesDirectly said:
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Thanks for posting, I would like to see more Machinists comment in here.

I recall going thru some mathematics and safety items before ever being allowed to touch a lathe or mill. I could thread steel on a full size lathe when I was a teenager back in the stone ages.

Post more often and Thanks again, Dave.
Click to expand...

we only had 80 inchs between centers, so we had to do this bastard in 3 sections
had to eye ball it to pick up the lead as they say, swoop in , swoop out
so much push off, it was a deep thread, probably half inch per side,
and i dont even have a steady rest, it just barely fit through the spindle by .05 lol


picture.php


picture.php
 
Texas Carom Club said:
we only had 80 inchs between centers, so we had to do this bastard in 3 sections
had to eye ball it to pick up the lead as they say, swoop in , swoop out
so much push off, it was a deep thread, probably half inch per side,
and i dont even have a steady rest, it just barely fit through the spindle by .05 lol


picture.php


picture.php
Click to expand...

Awesome job, square threads? Wow good.
 
Texas Carom Club said:
Threading is different on a lathe

On a mill, the rpm and feed have to be in tune
For a lathe you can choose any rpm, as long as its not too fast to whip the part out of the machine,burn the insert, or crack it, theres usually a massive window of where your ok in the middle

I just always use 100rpm because i know if its inconel or is its aluminum, itll work, not the fastest but it works
My background is in job shops not mass production

8 threads per inch the feed is .125
The feed is whats important on a lathe
12 tpi is .0833

4 tpi is .25

Divide the pitch by 1


16tpi÷1 =.0625
Click to expand...

We divide one by the pitch to get the decimal.
 
kevoka said:
Wow - this is so cool.

I am super curious what this piece was used for.
Click to expand...

Gate valve of some sort
I too would like to see it in action
I just googled industrial gate valve

It mighta went to something like that



https://changwoncity.files.wordpres...380ed9998_ed94bcecbc80ec9db4ebb0b8ebb88c3.jpg

The brass nut thats on it was machined and just did the id and thread
It was finished and ive done several of them and they always have an undercut and some splines that prevents you from grabbing the back od which is perfect holding space
But no i gotta hold it from the big dia thats mayb 1 inch thick
Always works out but its like , come on some times lol
 
Last edited:
Theres a few shops in my area that we take thier small work and do it
They could fit that valve in the photo inside the bore of the parts they do , minus whats sticking out the top
Its pretty kool seeing lart scale machining like that
Vtl's built right into the foundation
 
Today im working on a 3 piece job ive done before
Nitronic 60 material which isnt real bad on its own
But its been cold treated
Each piece sat in liquid nitrogen for 8 hrs
Makes it much more difficult to machine

Where do they come up with this stuff hahah
 
Some lathes have a code for multi start threads and it sorts out the start position all by itself. Other times you have to arrange and make the start point earlier to get the radial position. When you have multi start threads and the helix angle gets increased, you need the shims to incline the cutting tool to the appropriate helix angle, or else the leading edge of the threading insert will rub and ultimately fail. This is especially on 8 start helix like what is used to drive a gear off a moving shaft, like the old unscrewing bolsters for timed injection moulding tools.
There is a lot of really great videos out there on almost everything , except how to make very precise collets.
 
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