Has any one tried West System Epoxy 206 on cues.

[Newton]

I came over this system locally by accident and it has some effects which
might make it usable for cues. It has a long/slow cure so I would need the cue
continuos spinning and use a heat gun to smooth it out.

So before I go for a test run I was just curious if some one has tried this and
in case where you or you're customer happy with the finnish ?

Any Pros/Cons ?


Kent

 

[JBCustomCues]

I came over this system locally by accident and it has some effects which
might make it usable for cues. It has a long/slow cure so I would need the cue
continuos spinning and use a heat gun to smooth it out.

So before I go for a test run I was just curious if some one has tried this and
in case where you or you're customer happy with the finnish ?

Any Pros/Cons ?


Kent

A lot of cue builders use West System in cue including myself.

 

[Mc2]

I came over this system locally by accident and it has some effects which
might make it usable for cues. It has a long/slow cure so I would need the cue
continuos spinning and use a heat gun to smooth it out.

So before I go for a test run I was just curious if some one has tried this and
in case where you or you're customer happy with the finnish ?

Any Pros/Cons ?


Kent

I assume that you are talking about using west system for clear coat. If so I have used the 207 to seal a cue up. Works great. I didn't need to heat it up as it is thin enough. I would use any west system for the top coats as it will yellow from what I understand. You can purchase cue coat or cue finish epoxy from a few different stores on line.

http://www.cuecomponents.com/cuecofiep.html

Jim.

 

[JBCustomCues]

I dont know anyone who uses West System 105 resin and 205 or 206 hardner as a clear coat.. Now West System 105 resin and 207 hardner is the special coating specialy formulated to be self leaveling for under coating.

 

[Newton]

I assume that you are talking about using west system for clear coat. If so I have used the 207 to seal a cue up. Works great. I didn't need to heat it up as it is thin enough. I would use any west system for the top coats as it will yellow from what I understand. You can purchase cue coat or cue finish epoxy from a few different stores on line.

http://www.cuecomponents.com/cuecofiep.html

Jim.

Thanks for the feedback guys.
I found this locally in a woodworking shop selling products for wood turnery and those boys.
They claimed it was used for clear coat but I guess it would not
work for our use then.
I'm aware of the other solutions for cue clear coat, but I'm trying to find a local
supply so I don't have to order from the US adding a lot in S&H charges.

Kent

 

[Newton]

I assume that you are talking about using west system for clear coat. If so I have used the 207 to seal a cue up. Works great. I didn't need to heat it up as it is thin enough. I would use any west system for the top coats as it will yellow from what I understand. You can purchase cue coat or cue finish epoxy from a few different stores on line.

http://www.cuecomponents.com/cuecofiep.html

Jim.

Jim,

I had finally got some time to check the different versions and it seems like
the already mentioned 207 is supposed to be UV resistant but if long time
exposure of sun us expected it is recommended with some extra steps.

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/207-special-clear-hardener/

The cue coat is not available locally so it has to be bought from the US
so this is the reason for looking at something else

Kent

 

[Cue Guru]

I use 206 for assembly, but not for finish. I prefer the slow cure as I feel it allows for deeper penetration with the delayed cure time. I could be delusional as well...

If your local supplier can get West products, have them order in the special clear hardener (forget the number) if you want to use it as a finish. I think you will never acheive that crystal-clear finish with epoxy that you get with automoticve clear coatings however... Since you are in Norway, it is probably easier for you to get Sikkens products. Try some Sikkens clear coat if you can. I love that stuff but it is impossible to get in the US.

CueComponents (mentioned above) has that West Clear hardener in stock so you can get the number from there.

 

[Newton]

I use 206 for assembly, but not for finish. I prefer the slow cure as I feel it allows for deeper penetration with the delayed cure time. I could be delusional as well...

If your local supplier can get West products, have them order in the special clear hardener (forget the number) if you want to use it as a finish. I think you will never acheive that crystal-clear finish with epoxy that you get with automoticve clear coatings however... Since you are in Norway, it is probably easier for you to get Sikkens products. Try some Sikkens clear coat if you can. I love that stuff but it is impossible to get in the US.

CueComponents (mentioned above) has that West Clear hardener in stock so you can get the number from there.

Thank you for your feedback.

I would check up the Sikkens since I have access to a semi finnished/almost done spray booth.
However I was hoping not to spray due to the mist. And also it would be nice
to don't do so many repetitions of spraying to build up the thicknes.
Do you know how the Sikkens is in respect of hardness?
Does it check easy because it's to hard or is it a little soft ?

I have not put on any clear on any cues yet, so I'm trying to prepare for it
and find some local sources for a product which would work

Thanks
Kent

 

[Cue Guru]

Thank you for your feedback.

You are welcome!

I would check up the Sikkens since I have access to a semi finished/almost done spray booth.

Perfect! You do not want to spray these finishes without proper containment.

However I was hoping not to spray due to the mist.

Again, proper containment and proper respirator for you is essential! Also, I suggest an HVLP gun, as it uses less air pressure and moves more paint (clear) to the target. Since it is just a small item, you can reduce the spray pattern and be very efficient with this. I used a small 'door jam' gun when I painted guitars and I did it in a home-made "phone booth"...

And also it would be nice
to don't do so many repetitions of spraying to build up the thickness.

REAL paint finishes build up quite quickly. Also, it is like an epoxy, and can be buffed the following day after spraying- you don't have to wait a month as you do with Nitrocelluloce...

Do you know how the Sikkens is in respect of hardness?

VERY hard. It has a brilliant shine like nitro, but is flexible enough for car bodies that freeze in winter and bake in summer. You can also add 'flex additive' if you find it necessary, as most current cars have plastic parts that flex a lot...

Does it check easy because it's to hard or is it a little soft ?

It CAN check and some experimentation is needed. It will react differently on different woods too- more oily and it might delaminate if too thick. In all cases, apply it at THIN as you possibly can. You don't want to "drown" the cue in finish!

I have not put on any clear on any cues yet, so I'm trying to prepare for it
and find some local sources for a product which would work

Check with local automotive body repair shops for information. That is the best place to start. Also, a LOT of good info on-line for how to paint, what equipment to use and why etc.

Thanks

You're welcome! Good luck with it!