Have you wanted to try a CF shaft but want a shaft that is closer to 13mm?

in all sports each company claims theirs is the best, fastest, strongest etc.

yet all the different athletes use different brands and shapes and sizes. if one was the best then everyone would use that.

that in itself proves beyond a shadow of doubt these companies are all full of it with their claims.

and distance in most sports isn't the main ingredient to win. except maybe javelin and discus.
 
in all sports each company claims theirs is the best, fastest, strongest etc.

yet all the different athletes use different brands and shapes and sizes. if one was the best then everyone would use that.

that in itself proves beyond a shadow of doubt these companies are all full of it with their claims.

and distance in most sports isn't the main ingredient to win. except maybe javelin and discus.
One man's great looking club head is one that another thinks is butt ugly - so it boils down to the personal preference.

The only one that is talking about best is you.

In golf when playing for a living adequate distance, especially on off center strikes is paramount whether that comes from Ping, TaylorMade, Callaway, Srixon, Titleist or whatever.
 
I shoot with a Viking Siege that is 12.25. However, my break cue is a Siege Break 13mm. Many times, I've accidently grabbed the break cue during play and after one hit with the hard tip I realize I've got the break cue instead of my playing cue. They are both 19oz and both CF. Couple of times for the fun of it I just kept shooting with the break cue. There was no difference really, although I wasn't in completion or going crazy with spin or anything like that. But for stop shots or follow it worked fine and felt fine (just not used to the sound). The Siege Break CF replaced the wood shaft that come with the combo break and jump handle, so I use that wood shaft for jumping exclusively now. The few times I've played with the break cue also gave me some confidence that if I had some sort of equipment failure during a match I could switch to either 13mm shaft without too much worry.
 
SSP,

please explain how a carbon fibre shaft transfers more power than a wood shaft. if anything, a layman would ask, "why doesn't it transfer less power as it is lighter in the front."

and how does this Becue add even more power than other carbon fibre shafts..

i thought to add more power it had to weigh(which it doesnt) more, or be going at a faster speed.

please reply i am at the edge of my chair. thanks.
I have a Becue. The shaft is warped and the cue feels dead in my hands. It sits in a case unused. Yet, I almost bought another Becue when Seyberts was selling them for $750 a few months ago. I hemmed and hawed until the 12.5mm shafts were no longer available. One thing that made me hesitate is...I use a mid cue extension, and the mid cue extension Becue sells isn't made of carbon fiber. That sort of makes you wonder about Becue's claim that an all carbon cue is better, when Becue is willing to outfit you with a hunk of plastic between the carbon shaft and the carbon butt.
 
I am not going to get into a long winded argument in regards to what a carbon fiber pool shaft does vs a wood one. I play a with a laminated glued together low deflection wood shaft & it works just fine.
Last I saw, you were using a CF shaft. Why the switch?
 
JFlowers SMO shock absorber 1.jpg

Too many potentially moving parts in quite a few of the CF shafts.
Are you talking about foam, a weight to maintain balance, a wooden plug in Meucci's Pro, and shock absorbers in the SMO shaft?
 
Are you talking about foam, a weight to maintain balance, a wooden plug in Meucci's Pro, and shock absorbers in the SMO shaft?
There is also that big hunk of metal inside the Revo. The Whyte Carbon inserts that fit multiple shaft brands. Whatever else manufacturers want to stuff into a carbon fiber shaft that could potentially break, come loose & have me send it back.
 
only 3 ways that the club head can increase the distance the ball goes from it.

1 added weight more mass
2 more speed as it hits the ball
3 some form of elasticity so it rebounds and propels the ball as would say a sling shot.

a rubber ball bounces faster off a bat than a wooden ball and that is the elastic of the ball rebounding.
that is why the newer golf balls hit farther so drives are longer than of old. as well as the strength of the players who can certainly swing faster than before.
reducing spin is one of the main ways to increase driver distance. modern drivers are made for hi-launch/lo-spin, older drivers put WAY too much spin on the ball. length is also key to distance, today's drivers are both lighter and longer producing more speed with less effort. they do have a trampoline effect but it is limited by rules and closely checked to be conforming.
 
Too many potentially moving parts in quite a few of the CF shafts.

Get a ding in CF & then you have a real problem.
virtually impossible to 'ding' cf. you'd have to be a ham-handed idiot to do so. i've seen them bounce of tons of table edges without a mark. in everyday usage you will NEVER damage one.
 
virtually impossible to 'ding' cf. you'd have to be a ham-handed idiot to do so. i've seen them bounce of tons of table edges without a mark. in everyday usage you will NEVER damage one.
I have a Revo that is dinged, scratched, gouged, whatever you want to call it. Not sure how it happened exactly but I have my suspicions it was when the last tip was put on.

Shit can happen beyond everyday usage that results in a f’d up carbon fiber shaft.
 
I have a Revo that is dinged, scratched, gouged, whatever you want to call it. Not sure how it happened exactly but I have my suspicions it was when the last tip was put on.

Shit can happen beyond everyday usage that results in a f’d up carbon fiber shaft.
yeah, like i said: being an idiot. i've hit balls/lights/table edges/dropped on floor with various cf shafts and not one showed ANY marks much less damage. also, NO way putting a tip on one is EVER going to damage it. maybe letting a dog chew on it but just using one will never damage it. I know a few guys with original Revo's/Cynergy's and other than a little fading/discoloration they show zero defects. All have been re-tipped a bunch.
 
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reducing spin is one of the main ways to increase driver distance. modern drivers are made for hi-launch/lo-spin, older drivers put WAY too much spin on the ball. length is also key to distance, today's drivers are both lighter and longer producing more speed with less effort. they do have a trampoline effect but it is limited by rules and closely checked to be conforming.
I read a book that had a a part about a guy in vegas that would gamble with even pga pros as long as they played with no rules. He carried 25 clubs and put vasoline on the face of his driver so there would be no spin. Mostly the pros want nothing to do with that challenge.
I think the book was "Who's your caddie". It was a good read.
 
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