Prison break
2 9 7 8 a
Is the of OP OIL OR GAS OR STEAM
anyone know?
I hope it's anything but gas.
Radiators were never mentioned.
Heaters For A Garage
- Thread starter Hirsty
- Start date
anyone know?
I hope it's anything but gas.
Radiators were never mentioned.
snookered_again
Well-known member
slightly unrelated but I play in a place where many smoke and are very happy to have a place with such freedom. Smoking is banned in most commercial type spaces, even bars around here, and the bars went out of fashion pretty much as a result, who wants to order a beer and then need to go stand on the street outside if they want to smoke too... well more are getting used to it for sure.
They open the door periodically but the heat loss is considerable. I was thinking a heat exchanger may help transfer clean air in and smokey air out. but Im unsure hw practical this concept is. The heat exchanger is simply an air to air radiator, that allows the exiting air to warm the incoming air. they are used in new buildings which are super well insulated to increase heat efficiency. maybe in commercial and large arrangements as well? the other approach is to filter the smoke. Its probably a less common situation now that most commercial spaces here can't lugally allow indoor smoking. bars used ot have those smoke eating machines.
wheather or not you approve of smoking isn't the subject, I hope not to start all that controversy up.
The same dynamics apply weather smoking is a consideration or not , one still needs to replace air to some degree. living inside a sealed up plastic bag is unhealthy . Its less of an issue in summer, more of an issue during the colder months.
Perhaps some sort of heat exchanger and electric or gas heat that is separate is ok. I think there is also a code ( here anyway) that the garage door needs to be self closing to prevent car fumes entering the house.
If you have a pool table in the Garage it makes sense that no car ever goes there. It might be a "garage"unless the door is removed and the garage doors are notoriously bad for air leaks.
For being thrifty, a wood burner is nice but that may only suit a larger shop and where such is not already banned by local codes.
I have an old brick fireplace and use mine, and I for one enjoy burning wood and not having such stringent house rules is really nice.
Houses wtih real and functional fireplaces in them are getting scarce. The result is there is always piles of free wood from city tree pruners. Great for me, free BTU's ;-)
hot water heat, steam, or electric heat, might be less hard to separate because you aren't returning the used air to the central furnace.
in my case , at home I know of some leaks but don't try to seal them well, because I need a certain amount of ventilation. It was designed 100 years back with a burner in the basement and one big vent to let the heat upstairs., There was originally no fan, just heat rises. Convection.
central heat was added back in the 50's and now they blow heat out near the windows and return it pretty much down the center of the house. The concept changed from the 20's with wood and coal where if you want more heat you just burn more wood or coal and the house was not air tight, they didn't even use insulation.
With central air from gas heaters, and ever increasing insulation, its changing more with newer systems. They now basically have a hose from the heat exchanger to provide fresh air to all the rooms and since a house is not a balloon , it needs to vent the same amount, the exhaust is vented the same way basically, out through the heat exchanger, collected from within.
even if there is no smoking , well people cook and fart and they boil water and make water vapor so you still have heat loss ,and you still need fresh air, just to a lesser extent..Humans make CO2 and need oxygen.
it may well be the case if it's a typical garage door that you do have some fresh air entering.
gas heat , or electric blowers or baseboards is great for instant heat. It may be the case where the user wants to not heat his garage unless he is planning to play pool. systems like in floor heating and radiators work best under constant conditions, less great for a summer cabin that you visit periodically or similar situation.
I added a timer some years back , when I leave the furnace is programmed to go down to about 62, then it heats before I come back in. 72 around mealtimes. less at other times of day. the cooler it is, the less heat is wasted.
I htink this situation s one that may benefit from the heating system to have a fast heat rate because it may be likely that half the time, no one is there and then its wasting heat just keeping warm for when you do need it, if the system can't respond very quickly. In your kitchen or bath it's different, you want it warm to the touch most of the time, likely. retired people may want more even and consistent heat than a working person that can't be there during the day. Heating a whole house at a constant 72 just for the cat doesn't make a lot of sense .
I try to program mine so it's refreshing the heat at morning bathroom and evening cooking times. I want the air movemet then, so humidity can be delt with better.
I tell everyone in the house if you are cold, its ok turn it up , go ahead,, I also know that after time the system goes back to its' preprogrammed routene so even if they forget, it won't stay up, it will go back to the programed heat level. all that is is the thermostat , not the heat system. I think that is a good thing to convert, if you are on an old style thermostat, It saves a bit of fuel. If you have a fairly constant play pattern you might have a timer just for the electric heat, don't return the air to the house, maybe set the program to start warming an hour prior to your usual playtime. electric wiring is a lot less involved to modify than an air return system .
now everyone is upgrading to heat pumps, great if you can afford them. I'm ready to upgrade my own house heater. thinking about looking for a used furnace rather than spending thousands. mine is super simple, has never failed. a lot of these new heat systems suffer rather frequent breakdowns from the proprietary electronics boards failing. My insurance company hates my old furnace and HW tank, they want it inspected. I know any guy I call in will say you need a whole new system and give me some giant quote. I'm hoping I can get a good one from a place "upgrading" to a newer heat pump based system. I can perhaps do the lions share of the install work and call a guy with a gas ticket to check things over. pressure test and connect. I'll need ot add an A-B vent up the chimney, its just using the bare flu, That won't pass.
last year they said my HW tank will fail so I said so let it, I'll fix it then and its in the basement anyway, Ill take the risk of some water on the floor, I know it can drain.. They let me go, along with a clause that said they wont pay for damage of this, OK fair I said. this year they said I need ot have it inspected, that old HW tank might be a fire hazard. I ended up switching insurers. I will need to look after it this summer, not in winter.
I htink electric may be the cheapest to install , less modification , bu tcheck your electric panel, make sure you have a big enough box to run more breakers. My house was only aout 40 amps. I upgraded ti to 200 with a whole house rewiring job so I have lots, but electric is expensive. I htink those rates and comparisons are hard to determine with any accuracy. looking forward. It seems the governments want electric cars, electric heat, ban the fossil fuels, reduce their use. now you can try to figiure out wheather the autorities will increase gas to make people convert , or will electric grids become more crowded and increase electric rates? if you ave a mixture maybe you have some better options than just going all electric. If we pull out the gas line they may not want to put it back in , ever. If you have a little of both, you have some options.
They open the door periodically but the heat loss is considerable. I was thinking a heat exchanger may help transfer clean air in and smokey air out. but Im unsure hw practical this concept is. The heat exchanger is simply an air to air radiator, that allows the exiting air to warm the incoming air. they are used in new buildings which are super well insulated to increase heat efficiency. maybe in commercial and large arrangements as well? the other approach is to filter the smoke. Its probably a less common situation now that most commercial spaces here can't lugally allow indoor smoking. bars used ot have those smoke eating machines.
wheather or not you approve of smoking isn't the subject, I hope not to start all that controversy up.
The same dynamics apply weather smoking is a consideration or not , one still needs to replace air to some degree. living inside a sealed up plastic bag is unhealthy . Its less of an issue in summer, more of an issue during the colder months.
Perhaps some sort of heat exchanger and electric or gas heat that is separate is ok. I think there is also a code ( here anyway) that the garage door needs to be self closing to prevent car fumes entering the house.
If you have a pool table in the Garage it makes sense that no car ever goes there. It might be a "garage"unless the door is removed and the garage doors are notoriously bad for air leaks.
For being thrifty, a wood burner is nice but that may only suit a larger shop and where such is not already banned by local codes.
I have an old brick fireplace and use mine, and I for one enjoy burning wood and not having such stringent house rules is really nice.
Houses wtih real and functional fireplaces in them are getting scarce. The result is there is always piles of free wood from city tree pruners. Great for me, free BTU's ;-)
hot water heat, steam, or electric heat, might be less hard to separate because you aren't returning the used air to the central furnace.
in my case , at home I know of some leaks but don't try to seal them well, because I need a certain amount of ventilation. It was designed 100 years back with a burner in the basement and one big vent to let the heat upstairs., There was originally no fan, just heat rises. Convection.
central heat was added back in the 50's and now they blow heat out near the windows and return it pretty much down the center of the house. The concept changed from the 20's with wood and coal where if you want more heat you just burn more wood or coal and the house was not air tight, they didn't even use insulation.
With central air from gas heaters, and ever increasing insulation, its changing more with newer systems. They now basically have a hose from the heat exchanger to provide fresh air to all the rooms and since a house is not a balloon , it needs to vent the same amount, the exhaust is vented the same way basically, out through the heat exchanger, collected from within.
even if there is no smoking , well people cook and fart and they boil water and make water vapor so you still have heat loss ,and you still need fresh air, just to a lesser extent..Humans make CO2 and need oxygen.
it may well be the case if it's a typical garage door that you do have some fresh air entering.
gas heat , or electric blowers or baseboards is great for instant heat. It may be the case where the user wants to not heat his garage unless he is planning to play pool. systems like in floor heating and radiators work best under constant conditions, less great for a summer cabin that you visit periodically or similar situation.
I added a timer some years back , when I leave the furnace is programmed to go down to about 62, then it heats before I come back in. 72 around mealtimes. less at other times of day. the cooler it is, the less heat is wasted.
I htink this situation s one that may benefit from the heating system to have a fast heat rate because it may be likely that half the time, no one is there and then its wasting heat just keeping warm for when you do need it, if the system can't respond very quickly. In your kitchen or bath it's different, you want it warm to the touch most of the time, likely. retired people may want more even and consistent heat than a working person that can't be there during the day. Heating a whole house at a constant 72 just for the cat doesn't make a lot of sense .
I try to program mine so it's refreshing the heat at morning bathroom and evening cooking times. I want the air movemet then, so humidity can be delt with better.
I tell everyone in the house if you are cold, its ok turn it up , go ahead,, I also know that after time the system goes back to its' preprogrammed routene so even if they forget, it won't stay up, it will go back to the programed heat level. all that is is the thermostat , not the heat system. I think that is a good thing to convert, if you are on an old style thermostat, It saves a bit of fuel. If you have a fairly constant play pattern you might have a timer just for the electric heat, don't return the air to the house, maybe set the program to start warming an hour prior to your usual playtime. electric wiring is a lot less involved to modify than an air return system .
now everyone is upgrading to heat pumps, great if you can afford them. I'm ready to upgrade my own house heater. thinking about looking for a used furnace rather than spending thousands. mine is super simple, has never failed. a lot of these new heat systems suffer rather frequent breakdowns from the proprietary electronics boards failing. My insurance company hates my old furnace and HW tank, they want it inspected. I know any guy I call in will say you need a whole new system and give me some giant quote. I'm hoping I can get a good one from a place "upgrading" to a newer heat pump based system. I can perhaps do the lions share of the install work and call a guy with a gas ticket to check things over. pressure test and connect. I'll need ot add an A-B vent up the chimney, its just using the bare flu, That won't pass.
last year they said my HW tank will fail so I said so let it, I'll fix it then and its in the basement anyway, Ill take the risk of some water on the floor, I know it can drain.. They let me go, along with a clause that said they wont pay for damage of this, OK fair I said. this year they said I need ot have it inspected, that old HW tank might be a fire hazard. I ended up switching insurers. I will need to look after it this summer, not in winter.
I htink electric may be the cheapest to install , less modification , bu tcheck your electric panel, make sure you have a big enough box to run more breakers. My house was only aout 40 amps. I upgraded ti to 200 with a whole house rewiring job so I have lots, but electric is expensive. I htink those rates and comparisons are hard to determine with any accuracy. looking forward. It seems the governments want electric cars, electric heat, ban the fossil fuels, reduce their use. now you can try to figiure out wheather the autorities will increase gas to make people convert , or will electric grids become more crowded and increase electric rates? if you ave a mixture maybe you have some better options than just going all electric. If we pull out the gas line they may not want to put it back in , ever. If you have a little of both, you have some options.
Last edited: