Hoppe Style Butt - What kind of Joint?

PrimoCues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I'm working on a cue with a hoppe style butt. Maple/ Bacote Sneaky Pete.
What kind of look do you think I should use for the joint? Any pics of previous work?
 
Since it would be vintage looking I would think a joint like a 5/16 x 14 piloted joint....At least I always associate that type of joint with classic cues...
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Oh...silly me...I think a simple SS thick collar w/ a black band and a single metal ring...or a flat faced ivory 3/8 x 10...my favorite....I'm working on a joint with E. Indian Rosewood instead of black phenolic...
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showboat said:
Oh...silly me...I think a simple SS thick collar w/ a black band and a single metal ring...or a flat faced ivory 3/8 x 10...my favorite....I'm working on a joint with E. Indian Rosewood instead of black phenolic...
OH SWEET! I was thinking about using ebony and purpleheart for the same thing! Is there a certain size to the rings in the hoppe style that people follow?
 
hoppe joint

After carefully examining this matter when designing my own hoppe style cues, I have come to the following conclusion about the joint:

There should be solid bands above and below the joint collar, be it stainless steel, white phenolic or ivory. The most important part is that the bands should be exactly 1/3 of the width of the joint collar. So, if you have a 1" section of joint collar material, you should have 1/3" solid bands. No metal rings or checker dashes. Simple yet elegant. This makes for the most aesthetically pleasing joint on a hoppe style cue. Predator is close on their sneakies, but the black bands surrounding their joints are too wide (1/2"). My favorite style joint is a 3/4" collar with 1/4" bands. A good example of this is on the Wanted/for sale forum a page or two back. It's a thread titled "ebony titlist." Check it out. Of course this is only my opinion, but try it and you will be pleasantly surprised.:D

P.S.
Another tip with the hoppe style cues is NO INLAYS and DONT MIX BROWN WITH BLACK.;)
 
Also, keep the hoppies bumperless, and make sure the hoppe ring and buttcap are the same width. 1/4" or slightly larger is best.
 
fullsplicefiend said:
After carefully examining this matter when designing my own hoppe style cues, I have come to the following conclusion about the joint:

There should be solid bands above and below the joint collar, be it stainless steel, white phenolic or ivory. The most important part is that the bands should be exactly 1/3 of the width of the joint collar. So, if you have a 1" section of joint collar material, you should have 1/3" solid bands. No metal rings or checker dashes. Simple yet elegant. This makes for the most aesthetically pleasing joint on a hoppe style cue. Predator is close on their sneakies, but the black bands surrounding their joints are too wide (1/2"). My favorite style joint is a 3/4" collar with 1/4" bands. A good example of this is on the Wanted/for sale forum a page or two back. It's a thread titled "ebony titlist." Check it out. Of course this is only my opinion, but try it and you will be pleasantly surprised.:D

P.S.
Another tip with the hoppe style cues is NO INLAYS and DONT MIX BROWN WITH BLACK.;)

Yeah...go for that....I like the look...
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Well during the war, rubber became a scarce commodity as most of the rubber in the country was put towards military use. When the original brunswick ralph greenleaf and willie hoppe professional cues came out, there was only a screw head where the bumper would be. The ivory ring was added to dress up the butt a little bit, and the most beautiful and elegany butt style was born. A bumperless hoppe style cue just feels more authentic, and in my opinion a bumper takes something away from it.

Modern cuemakers like tascarella, hercek, r. black, and many others have continued this tradition with their hoppe cues. Hercek adds an ivory plug instead of a screw which I am in love with.

If you want to pm me your email I'll send you a few pics of what i'm talkin about.

IM
 
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