how can I make this kind of ring?
- Thread starter Adonisy
- Start date
Adonisy said:
I read Chris's book and search all threads , but still have no answer....
thanks
These are one of the easiest of all rings to make. These look to be six groups of two segments so using a 1/32 end mill cut six mortises, 60 degrees apart, as deep as neccessary in a cylinder of maple. It looks as if the individual segments are about 20 degrees apart so reposition your indexer 20 degrees and then cut six more mortises 60 degrees apart. This will give your six groups of two. Glue in whatever colored veneer you want and when dry slice off the thickness you want. Assemble with proper veneers on each side.
Dick
It is covered on pages 80 and 81. You will need indexing on your headstock and a router. If I remember right you have the Micro Cue Smith 2 which does not have indexing on it. The Midsize and Deluxe both have indexing on them but the Micro lathes do not. For doing 6 double slot rows use the right size end mill in your router to match your veneer or silver size. Then with 24 position indexing holes lock it down in the first hole. Cut your slot then move it over to the second hole and cut that slot. Then skip two holes and lock it down in the 5th hole and cut the slot. Then lock it in the sixth indexing hole and cut that slot. Then skip two etc.. First thing is you have to have the right tools to do the job.
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
Yeah, definatly have to have something to index with. Those rings are pretty straight forward to make, if setup correctly to cut slots. Chris's indexing works really well. I actually trashed My stand alone project because the import index I had, just did not seem accurate enough for me. I ended up just setting a dremel up on the deluxe, and it works better then I imagined. Also has several other uses. You could also use the 1/4 router to do the same thing with the correct adapter to fit the small end mill shanks. The nice thing is I can even use the power feed on the carraige.
Another thing is having enough various size bits to fit what ever size slots you need. Always do test cuts on scrap first to make sure you are sized correctly for your strips. another idea is to use a scrap piece that is the same material you will be cutting slots in, reason being that different materials will cut away at different rates, and create different size slots even with the same size bit. Also the smaller the bit, the less depth you can make on each pass, requiring more passes for each slot.
If I had a program to dial in the croslide at the correct time, I could probably hook up reversing switches to the powerfeed, and make the thing automatic. Wonder if the frog would be good for that? I guess if I went through all that, I might as well setup a cnc
I did setup a stop that would hit the feed switch when it got to the end of a run for tapering larger dowels, and It worked like a charm, can walk away if I have to, and It will shut the powerfeed down on It's own.
Like anything takes thought, practice, and tooling as Chris mentioned, but after all that, that ring design is fairly easy to do. I am kind of into the basic 8 slots, and doing chain link style rings right now, but could easily do that one if I had the veneer. This setup also lets me cut the rings off very thin, and due to that, looks like I am going to have some cool combinations when done with the billet I am doing now. I am really happy with the results. Chris, you were right your index is alot more acurrate. Now I am only limited to My own creativity
.
I do have one question for you guys though. when cutting billet, I trim between centers before cutting the slots, so everything is true before hand, But wondering if you guys prefer to cut off one center point, and mounted in the chuck on the other side, then bore after the billets is glued up & trimmed, or bore the hole before cutting slots, and center off of that when cutting them? Just curious which is the best method. My slots look as straight as crosshairs from the end view finally, and want to make sure they stay that way.
Thanks, and good luck to the poster,
Greg
Another thing is having enough various size bits to fit what ever size slots you need. Always do test cuts on scrap first to make sure you are sized correctly for your strips. another idea is to use a scrap piece that is the same material you will be cutting slots in, reason being that different materials will cut away at different rates, and create different size slots even with the same size bit. Also the smaller the bit, the less depth you can make on each pass, requiring more passes for each slot.
If I had a program to dial in the croslide at the correct time, I could probably hook up reversing switches to the powerfeed, and make the thing automatic. Wonder if the frog would be good for that? I guess if I went through all that, I might as well setup a cnc
I did setup a stop that would hit the feed switch when it got to the end of a run for tapering larger dowels, and It worked like a charm, can walk away if I have to, and It will shut the powerfeed down on It's own.Like anything takes thought, practice, and tooling as Chris mentioned, but after all that, that ring design is fairly easy to do. I am kind of into the basic 8 slots, and doing chain link style rings right now, but could easily do that one if I had the veneer. This setup also lets me cut the rings off very thin, and due to that, looks like I am going to have some cool combinations when done with the billet I am doing now. I am really happy with the results. Chris, you were right your index is alot more acurrate. Now I am only limited to My own creativity
.I do have one question for you guys though. when cutting billet, I trim between centers before cutting the slots, so everything is true before hand, But wondering if you guys prefer to cut off one center point, and mounted in the chuck on the other side, then bore after the billets is glued up & trimmed, or bore the hole before cutting slots, and center off of that when cutting them? Just curious which is the best method. My slots look as straight as crosshairs from the end view finally, and want to make sure they stay that way.
Thanks, and good luck to the poster,
Greg
I was wondering, if i wanted to make that type of ring out of ebony and use a red dyed veneer in the slots i cut, how or where do i get solid red color end rings to match the dyed veneer? do i have to dye my own veneer and dye a piece of maple to match and make rings from that? or am i just missing something?
Thanks,
Owen
Thanks,
Owen
newo9277 said:
You might want to get it from a better source Owen, but I believe you would use the same veneer for the ring. If I did the same design, but in black like I am using now I could mix and match, but seems to Me, to get the same color of the veneer, using the same source of material would match best. I could be wrong though.
Greg
do you mean turn the veneer sideways drill a hole in it so it slides on the tenon and turn the outside round after glue up? If i did that would the end grain side look different than the side grain? I guess i could try a test piece out and see how that looks.
Thanks,
Owen
Thanks,
Owen
Guess the grain would be an issue. As far as cutting them out though, another ring would work for a template, so I could cut rings out of flat pieces with my inlay machine if need be.
Natural would be nicer I aggree, purple heart, and a few others come to mind, but what about the rings in the pictures? They don't look natural, looks dyed IMO.
What if you cut the rings off of a dowel, and then dyed them? in dowel form I would think getting good penatration of the dye might be an issue, even if vac assisted, so that's My thinking of cutting them to rings beforehand.
I am just doing black in maple with silver in the middle of 2 black strips, and some with black only right now, so have'nt put alot of thought into the veneers yet.
Thanks, Greg
Natural would be nicer I aggree, purple heart, and a few others come to mind, but what about the rings in the pictures? They don't look natural, looks dyed IMO.
What if you cut the rings off of a dowel, and then dyed them? in dowel form I would think getting good penatration of the dye might be an issue, even if vac assisted, so that's My thinking of cutting them to rings beforehand.
I am just doing black in maple with silver in the middle of 2 black strips, and some with black only right now, so have'nt put alot of thought into the veneers yet.
Thanks, Greg
Cue Crazy said:
What would you dye them with? what type of dye? Southwest makes rings like those and matches all the pieces in the rings with the veneers in the points. Maybe they dye a light color veneer and a light color ring the same color so they all match. I agree that dying the ring after slicing it off would probably work best.
Owen
newo9277 said:
Here's a previous thread you may find interesting
http://www.azbilliards.com/vbulletin/upload/showthread.php?t=7877&highlight=veneerOnly thing, I don't know if dyeing them after cutting into rings would cause any glueing problems.
They do some beautifull veneer work, that's for sure. most I have seen were multi color veneers sandwiched together. the venners matching the ones in the points is a really nice look.
Greg
I think two of the cues pictured above have the veneers lying flat next to the stitch rings. I have seen it done before and it looks okay. You have to look pretty close to see it, but I agree with you that natural wood rings cut correctly and using matching veneers looks better.macguy said:
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
Sure looks that way to me, even the thickness of the rings look too close to the same size. and the rings do look kind of darker in places probably due to the end grain.
Both the pics of the black ones I can do now, even have silver & alloy strips to go in them like the bottom picture, but need to get some more veneer before getting into the colors. I like the black because It blends better, and I can get all kinds of combinations out of them, by sizing the rings different, and offsetting them. that was the reason I was so concerned with how accurate I indexed. That does'nt seem to be a problem now. The colors are nice looking though, so will try My luck with those before long.
Both the pics of the black ones I can do now, even have silver & alloy strips to go in them like the bottom picture, but need to get some more veneer before getting into the colors. I like the black because It blends better, and I can get all kinds of combinations out of them, by sizing the rings different, and offsetting them. that was the reason I was so concerned with how accurate I indexed. That does'nt seem to be a problem now. The colors are nice looking though, so will try My luck with those before long.
You take tiny facing passes across either the butt or the shaft until they line up.newo9277 said:
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com