daytonajoe said:
I tried slipstick and found it no better than cuesilk or any of those others. After a couple of uses of the cue I found it unsatisfactory. I'm waiting for the new slipstic to arrive in the mail when I get it I'll try that.
How often should u clean your shafts?
- Thread starter chas1022
- Start date
I tried slipstick and found it no better than cuesilk or any of those others. After a couple of uses of the cue I found it unsatisfactory. I'm waiting for the new slipstic to arrive in the mail when I get it I'll try that.
I just tried the magic eraser, and I have to say I'm overjoyed by the results. I'm not a clean freak, but a couple of times a year I like to get everything cleaned up. The main shaft for my playing cue is cleaner than when I bought it. The 2nd shaft, my jump shaft and my break shaft all came out looking _new_. A little buffing w/leather and they're smooth as hell too.
/my $.02
-s
/my $.02
-s
Tru - Oil
I have played with a Kersenbrock since 1977. After Dave made it, he told me to never use an abrasive, just use a cloth to wipe it down when I am thru playing. He applied Tru-oil on the shafts when he made them and here it is many years later, and many thousands of balls and many countries later >>> they are still like glass. Slightly darker but it does not bother me at all. I have taken a bottle of Tru- oil (which you can get from gun shops) to different cue makers over the years to buff them up but that's all that has been done. I am also lucky that I have accumilated some extra Kersenbrock shafts over the years (I now have 5 !)
They all are still straight and feel GREAT !!!
I have played with a Kersenbrock since 1977. After Dave made it, he told me to never use an abrasive, just use a cloth to wipe it down when I am thru playing. He applied Tru-oil on the shafts when he made them and here it is many years later, and many thousands of balls and many countries later >>> they are still like glass. Slightly darker but it does not bother me at all. I have taken a bottle of Tru- oil (which you can get from gun shops) to different cue makers over the years to buff them up but that's all that has been done. I am also lucky that I have accumilated some extra Kersenbrock shafts over the years (I now have 5 !)
They all are still straight and feel GREAT !!!
steev said:
Agreed, have you also tried a bag the brown paper bag to buff with, this and a dollar bill. Well anything works to buff as long as you can create some friction
The way I've been doing it...
Everyone has their own system that's for sure.
I try to only clean the shaft when I really can't stand the look of it anymore, which is 1-2x per month.
Here's what I do:
1) use a couple drops of McDermott shaft cleaner on a towel to clean the ferrule. (I may try a toothbrush instead of a towel in the future)
2) spray denatured alcohol onto a magic eraser (outside), then go up and down the shaft couple times with the eraser.
3) wipe down with a dry terry cloth towel
4) burnish with yellow Q-smooth paper (the very finest paper in the kit)
Although I was skeptical about the magic eraser thing, there is really no other way I've found that cleans as well without being abrasive. Even that McD shaft cleaner seems a bit course in texture so that's why I try not to use it on the wood. When you use alcohol with the magic eraser, the grain of the shaft does not "raise" like it would if you used too much water. If you use water with the eraser, just make sure you squeeze out the excess first. The down side to denatured alcohol is that it is poison - so be careful! I need to get some gloves one of these days.
I haven't tried leather yet for burnishing, but the yellow papers work really well. They don't take any wood off and just polish/seal it.
I tried slip stic but didn't care for the way it made the shaft feel (took away that bare wood feel) and it didn't seem to last that long anyway.
Everyone has their own system that's for sure.
I try to only clean the shaft when I really can't stand the look of it anymore, which is 1-2x per month.
Here's what I do:
1) use a couple drops of McDermott shaft cleaner on a towel to clean the ferrule. (I may try a toothbrush instead of a towel in the future)
2) spray denatured alcohol onto a magic eraser (outside), then go up and down the shaft couple times with the eraser.
3) wipe down with a dry terry cloth towel
4) burnish with yellow Q-smooth paper (the very finest paper in the kit)
Although I was skeptical about the magic eraser thing, there is really no other way I've found that cleans as well without being abrasive. Even that McD shaft cleaner seems a bit course in texture so that's why I try not to use it on the wood. When you use alcohol with the magic eraser, the grain of the shaft does not "raise" like it would if you used too much water. If you use water with the eraser, just make sure you squeeze out the excess first. The down side to denatured alcohol is that it is poison - so be careful! I need to get some gloves one of these days.
I haven't tried leather yet for burnishing, but the yellow papers work really well. They don't take any wood off and just polish/seal it.
I tried slip stic but didn't care for the way it made the shaft feel (took away that bare wood feel) and it didn't seem to last that long anyway.
Whenever I have a new shaft I use Cuesilk to seal it up...after that I just use the paper towels from washing my hands to wipe it down and I carry a washcloth in my case that I use during a match....I had an Espiritu that was almost blue with chalk that I had for years and only required the aforementioned maintenance...
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Last edited:
PoolSleuth
Banned
daytonajoe said:
100% True, and Slip Stick work as advertised...
I want a Towel for my case, one of those Eightball Towels LOL. I always have some extra piece of felt left over from covering the table in my case to Wipe it down.
TheConArtist said:
I buy hand towels from Walmart or Kmart for about $1. I wipe down the shaft after playing, and occasionally burnish with a piece of leather (about $3 unless you have a local leather shop and can get one for free. I also use McDermotts shaft cleaner maybe once a month or so.
PoolSleuth said:100% True, and Slip Stick work as advertised...
4 fluid oz. = $24.95 MSRP. That's nearly $400 a gallon. I'm sorry, but that goes against my religion. I believe I'll be damned if I pay so much for something that costs $2.99 at Walgreens.
Irish634 said:
Yeah i always use my piece of leather, dollar bill, extra piece of felt, etc... to burnish with, but i want a towel. There was this guy who has a big fancy case, and ties his towel on his case looked kewl
So i think i am going to get me a 8ball towel, maybe even some covers, as my Simonis Bed cover ain't really comfortable 
never. i use a very dirty blue/green shaft. it feels good and it doesnt affect performance. it gets cleaned whenever i get a new tip put on it, other than that, no wipe down, nothing, works for me.
TheConArtist said:Yeah i always use my piece of leather, dollar bill, extra piece of felt, etc... to burnish with, but i want a towel. There was this guy who has a big fancy case, and ties his towel on his case looked kewl
If you want to hang the towel on your case, you can also buy a golf towel. They have grommets and clips to hang the towel. Either way, I always recommend having a towel or two handy when shooting a few hours.
Good luck,
Craig