How to check if a table is setup correctly

mikemosconi said:
I think that this is by FAR the best advice in having a table set up- you simply MUST be knowledgeable on all aspects prior to the install and make sure that you and the installer are on the same page in terms of plans and expectations otherwise expect problems - items of note- expectations in terms of cloth, cushions, alignments, tightness, leveling, pocket size and pocket set up, ball movement off the rails, etc. etc.

The more that I become educated on this topic and from my own history of installs back when I had home tables in the Northeast- the more I realize that there are actually very few people who can install a pool table to the specifications of the most discerning pool players. In fact, most pool table installers that I have encountered actually know little about how a perfect table should play. Their knowledge of proper pocket configuration and cushion speed/ set/up is usually severely lacking.
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Sadly, the expectations for a set up for home table recreational users is in a completely different ballpark than what serious / knowledgeable players expect / require.

Installation crews that deliver and set up tables for many of your home table dealers often have limited experience setting up tables to the expectations of a serious pool table mechanic. Usually they can get away with it since most home buyers are generally not knowledgeable in this realm.
 
If your slate is comprised of more than one piece, check ball roll off on each section on all directions. Also ensure the seams between sections cannot be, er, felt. 😆
 
Corner pockets should be the same size as each other. 5” or 4.75 etc. side pockets 1/2” less
CORRECTION… side pockets 1/2 inch wider than corners
 
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fuggles said:
I'm fairly certain new Valley tables have 4.5" corner pockets.
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or 4.5. My GC4 had various dimensions, I had no idea how the table should be set up. But learned a lot on Azb. I think I liked life better being an uneducated table owner. I had nothing to complain about as I did not know the difference 😂
 
GoldCrown said:
or 4.5. My GC4 had various dimensions, I had no idea how the table should be set up. But learned a lot on Azb. I think I liked life better being an uneducated table owner. I had nothing to complain about as I did not know the difference 😂
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Its cool. Thanks for the replies. Yea. Lots of knowledge floating around here. That's why I ask here.
 
With a new table, it's very likely all they're going to do is level it at the corners. If you ever have it re-covered, the questions below will apply.
Do they index the cloth and pull it to a line? Do they use spray glue? Do they have a proper (machinist) level? Is the nose height of the cushions correct and consistent?
A Valley table is pretty straightforward due to the design, but a hack can still find a way to make it less than ideal.
 
Sheldon said:
With a new table, it's very likely all they're going to do is level it at the corners. If you ever have it re-covered, the questions below will apply.
Do they index the cloth and pull it to a line? Do they use spray glue? Do they have a proper (machinist) level? Is the nose height of the cushions correct and consistent?
A Valley table is pretty straightforward due to the design, but a hack can still find a way to make it less than ideal.
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The guy I'm buying from is putting new Simonis 860 electric blue cloth on the table. So it will be taken apart and put back together. Also he will be hauling it 400 miles, presumably in some type of trailer. Good questions. I will be asking and verifying. Thanks.
 
Place three balls against the long rail near a corner frozen against each other. Lightly hit the cue ball into the last ball. The first ball should roll past the side and into the far corner. Watch that the ball doesn’t nudge against the rail or roll away from the rail. Try it with different speeds and all four corners. This won’t prove the whole table is good but at least that the long rails are straight and level.
 
slach said:
Place three balls against the long rail near a corner frozen against each other. Lightly hit the cue ball into the last ball. The first ball should roll past the side and into the far corner. Watch that the ball doesn’t nudge against the rail or roll away from the rail. Try it with different speeds and all four corners. This won’t prove the whole table is good but at least that the long rails are straight and level.
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I like it. Thanks.
 
fuggles said:
Where I live the closest room is 50 miles away and the guy who does their tables doesn't like to travel. lol.

The guy I'm buying from is a known dealer but lives 400 miles from me, so this will likely be a one shot deal.
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Agree with Fuggles. Advice to pay for a good mechanic makes sense if you live in a metro area where there are some. The nearest to us is 60 miles away and over a pass, so they want $120 in travel before they even show up, if they are willing to work that day.

Nothing about pool tables is rocket science. A careful, fastidious worker with a few tips and maybe some remote help should be able to do an adequate job for a remote area. If someone complains they can help next time. Save the good mechanics for working on tables where their skill will make a difference to the better players and tournaments.
 
fuggles said:
The guy I'm buying from is putting new Simonis 860 electric blue cloth on the table. So it will be taken apart and put back together. Also he will be hauling it 400 miles, presumably in some type of trailer. Good questions. I will be asking and verifying. Thanks.
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If he shows up and the slate is outside of the frame, this is a bad sign.
 
GoldCrown said:
Corner pockets should be the same size as each other. 5” or 4.75 etc. side pockets 1/2” less
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The mouths of the side pockets are traditionally 1/2" more (wider), not less, than the corner-pocket mouths. (I'm sure you know that, but fuggles might have been confused by what you wrote.)
 
Likely, you can probably find something wrong with any home installation. The only ‘perfect’ setups I have ever seen were at ‘world class’ tournaments. I hired the best (factory Diamond installer), but the issues I eventually discovered were really too minor to justify the travel/effort required to correct. Still, a slow rolled ball on the rail wouldn’t pass clean on one side pocket, and drifted off a perfect/level line (1/2”/table length). Especially irrelevant for me since the only noticeable drift was at the table‘s head (I play 14.1 mostly).
 
AtLarge said:
The mouths of the side pockets are traditionally 1/2" more (wider), not less, than the corner-pocket mouths. (I'm sure you know that, but fuggles might have been confused by what you wrote.)
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Corrected…. Thanks.
 
Sheldon said:
With a new table, it's very likely all they're going to do is level it at the corners. If you ever have it re-covered, the questions below will apply.
Do they index the cloth and pull it to a line? Do they use spray glue? Do they have a proper (machinist) level? Is the nose height of the cushions correct and consistent?
A Valley table is pretty straightforward due to the design, but a hack can still find a way to make it less than ideal.
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Glue subject is a good question. I got a spray glue job and it broke loose pretty fast. The installation called for a rolled quality glue.
 
fuggles said:
The guy I'm buying from is putting new Simonis 860 electric blue cloth on the table. So it will be taken apart and put back together. Also he will be hauling it 400 miles, presumably in some type of trailer. Good questions. I will be asking and verifying. Thanks.
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Simonis 860 must be installed with the correct side up ( I think is is the smooth)...Go to AZB forum TALK TO A MECHANIC. You can find that information there...plus many other question you need answered but don't know to ask.
 
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