How to replace the object ball with the cue ball

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Plagueis

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Just as the title says.
Last night I was playing in league (barbox 8 ball) and I was running the table on my break. It was a poor decision to leave the difficult ball for last but my position was off in a few shots and thats just how the pattern worked out. To get position on my Key ball I needed to play my second last solid ball in such a way that I left the CB where the OB was. A little forward or a little behind was okay but it was essentially replacing the OB with the CB. The shot was straight in but I didn't do it and hooked myself which left a jump shot which led to a foul. Now proper jumping aside, I'd like to know if there are any techniques for successful ball replacement shots.
I was thinking after the game that if I shot with enough power for a stop shot but aim slightly above Center CB that might be enough to position the CB where I needed it to be, in this case where the OB was.

Can anyone weigh in on how they perform these shots, I think it's an important shot to know how to do
 
It helps to have a cue ball that weighs a little more than the object ball. Not that that is of much help to you but I'm just putting it out there from my experience. It comes down to the topspin to cue ball speed ratio. A minute amount of topspin plus a fairly firm hit shot (distance dependant, of course) then you will roll forward slightly. A little more top spin... Not much though, and a slower cue ball speed and you can gain the same results.

Depending on my margin of error with how far ahead of the object ball my shot selection will vary.

If I have 6" of 'room' for the cue ball and the distance between both balls is less than half a table I will hit it firm and centre ball. I will choose to vary the speed rather than tip placement on this type of shot as it's how I've practised it.... And I've practised it a he'll of a lot so I'm used to it.

If the distance is greater but the margin of error is the same as above I will shoot a drag shot. The greater the distance between balls the lower I hit the cue ball. This method I controlled by tip placement and I prefer to alter the tip placement rather than speed. The speed is fairly consistent for all distances over a half table. This required a lot of feel for the shot and practise to predict when the cue ball will bite and change from back spin into topspin.

If the margin of error is so precise I need to literally replace the object ball... No more no less then I'm looking for another way to shoot it. I would rather use side to throw the pot, bully my way through obstructing balls with power of draw the length of the table (or how ever much it takes) to get a shot at the ball regardless of how tough the potting angle may be... It's going to be easier than a jump or a kick at it.

It is going to be beneficial for you to practise the stun run through and drag shots. They're very useful shots. But when your margin of error is so low it helps to have a wide range of shots in your arsenal to increase your margin of error.
 
I feel it's worth mentioning about the technique of the two shots I mentioned...

The firmer closer to centre hit stun run through shot is more of a punchy type of cue action. Short pull back with a full follow through keeping the cue level as you pull back but more importantly level as you cue through the ball. Depending on the distance between both balls you might have to hit below centre, but mostly it will be pure centre or maybe a fraction above it for the shorter distances between balls. For example in snooker with the cue ball in baulk and blue off the spot into a corner pocket I would hit pure centre at about 50%power. A black off the spot with the cue ball 2ft away I would shoot it at 20%power hitting it in the centre.... Same results.... The white would travel about 6"forward. If I had a long red with say 10ft distance between the two balls if I was to hit centre cue ball I would have to hit it at like 150%power...impossible for my cue power so I'd then have to move lower on the cue ball. When ever you get into the 70% of your power region I would advise changing your tip position depending on how comfortable you are in your technique and cueing accuracy then it could be as low as 50%power before looking to change tip position.

The drag shot.... I find this better to shoot it as I would a draw shot. Long slow backswing and a fluent transition and a long controlled follow through with gradual acceleration. The table conditions play a larger role in the outcome for this type of shot. How level it is, type of cloth etc. Your ability to judge the 'bite' in the cue ball and speed control play a big part. When the object ball is far from the pocket and the cue ball is close to the object ball this shot becomes impossible. You have to hit it soft enough to drag the cue ball and the chances the object ball won't react the pocket are high. But when the distance between the two balls is about the same or greater than the distance between the object ball and pocket this is my preferred choice. You have greater accuracy over the white because you are hitting it softer.
 
Bert Kinisters shot number one of the 60 minute workout for 9 ball.

You have to practice this shot due to conditions on the table. I hit it the same speed as a stop shot, but I address the cueball slightly higher.
 
Plagueis said:
Just as the title says.
Last night I was playing in league (barbox 8 ball) and I was running the table on my break. It was a poor decision to leave the difficult ball for last but my position was off in a few shots and thats just how the pattern worked out. To get position on my Key ball I needed to play my second last solid ball in such a way that I left the CB where the OB was. A little forward or a little behind was okay but it was essentially replacing the OB with the CB. The shot was straight in but I didn't do it and hooked myself which left a jump shot which led to a foul. Now proper jumping aside, I'd like to know if there are any techniques for successful ball replacement shots.
I was thinking after the game that if I shot with enough power for a stop shot but aim slightly above Center CB that might be enough to position the CB where I needed it to be, in this case where the OB was.

Can anyone weigh in on how they perform these shots, I think it's an important shot to know how to do
Click to expand...

As mentioned, Bert Kinister uses this exact shot as his basic stroke drill practice. It changes significantly with speed, distance and cue ball contact point. Dave Alciatore teaches it as a slight stun forward shot.

Here are the two most common methods taught (not by me, by people who teach for a living)

1. Dave Alciatore stun forward - Hit a perfect stun shot with speed but move a tiny bit higher on the cue ball.
2. Drag shot - Hit low on the cue ball and time out the drag along the cloth such that the cue ball is sliding when it hits the object ball to create the stun but hit it just a tiny bit too soft so the cue ball just begins forward roll just prior to impact.

The second shot is hit much softer making the object ball easier to pocket but requires a lot of practice and that is why Bert Kinister has you practice it. He wants you to develop this feel. Dave Alciatore says it is more consistent to control the slight roll forward with the firmer shot hit a tiny bit higher on the cue ball.

Neither shot is easy and both require practice and feel. The other variation that is useful is to increase speed or bottom spin to stun back just a little. It actually is pretty common to need a touch more or less than a stun shot provides. I started a thread on this myself previously.

I settled on the Alciatore method for very small movement and the drag shot for movement of 6" or more.
 
PJ has the easiest solution. Shoot a stop shot that would work on a ball about 3 or 4 inches closer than the actual object ball. Your cue should have just enough forward roll after contact to roll up to replace the object ball.
Steve
 
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