How Was This Forearm Made?

Biloxi Boy

Man With A Golden Arm
1. I know this cue is a relative POS, but I have been curious about them for years.

2. How was it made?

3. Who made it?

Thank you for your help.

Brunswick Richmond.jpg
 
You set up the mill for points.
You mill triangular decreasing indents at 4 (90º) or 6 (60º) rotations around the butt.
You them flip the butt and mill another 4 or 6 triangular decreasing indents.
You then glue up the point veneers
You then saw the points at 45°
Flip and glue, then edge so it fits the milled slots
glue veners into indents
clasp with rubber bands
let dry
back to the lath to remove what is not round.

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It is just "points" done from both ends of the butt.
 
1. I know this cue is a relative POS, but I have been curious about them for years.

2. How was it made?

3. Who made it?

Thank you for your help.

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Assuming they're real splices, it's full spliced in both directions offset by 45 degrees. If you're not familiar with how full spices are done, I'd recommend looking up Studiotronics on YouTube. He's got the most comprehensive cue making videos on YouTube that I can think of right now. Bob Dzruicky has some really good ones too. But Bob's are pretty short and typically cover certain aspects rather than entire builds.
 
Two opposing and uniform full spices would be a feat, but if that was the method, wouldn't strength and stability be concerns. Also (I don't know the exact terms) setting up "dead center" on both ends of the stock on the lathe seems to be essential. Or would those moves simply be "no step for a stepper"?
 
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Assuming they're real splices, it's full spliced in both directions offset by 45 degrees. If you're not familiar with how full spices are done, I'd recommend looking up Studiotronics on YouTube. He's got the most comprehensive cue making videos on YouTube that I can think of right now. Bob Dzruicky has some really good ones too. But Bob's are pretty short and typically cover certain aspects rather than entire builds.
How is the "second" splice accomplished? We're both sides assembled at the same time and turned down once? Or did it take two steps?

I can imagine a lot of trial and error preceded production.
 
It's surprising how much went into these splices to ultimately make crappy cues out of them.
Amen. That's a ton of work for any cue much less a cheap one. And I've watched as many cue making videos as I can find and have decided that in the extremely unlikely event that I become a cue make one day, veneers will not be offered. They just seem like a major PITA. And they did the whole process twice on this one.

And, just my opinion, they look terrible. It's just too much.
 
How is the "second" splice accomplished? We're both sides assembled at the same time and turned down once? Or did it take two steps?

I can imagine a lot of trial and error preceded production.
I'm making a kindergarten level educated guess here, but I'd say yes. They most likely were done at the same time. Otherwise keeping both sets of points even remotely close to even would be next to impossible. And if I'm wrong, someone PLEASE correct me so I can find out how these are actually done. I have no interest in making one. I just like to learn stuff.
 
They are.
It's surprising how much went into these splices to ultimately make crappy cues out of them. I have seen a few converted. There is a picture series on the web of one that was converted. I know I saved the pics on one of my drives but I can't find them.
Ever see a matching jump cue? You have now....
JV
 

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My guess is that KaoKao or some other Taiwan shop made these. Kind of a lo-buck ADAM.
I'll have to dig through my files but I think I might have pics of an NOS one with a made in Taiwan or made in China sticker on it, but I am not sure.


This is a pic from the 1981 Brunswick catalog. The Sterling Elite series in that catalog were obviously made by Dufferin, this is the "Professional Series". The catalog does not say where any of the cues were made though. The cue in question was "The Richmond" 004-23-908.

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