i need some old plastic ferrules

bruin70

bruin70

don't wannabe M0DERATOR
Silver Member
i was wondering if any cuemakers here have some old(or new, whatever) PLASTIC ferrules. specifically, they were called "cerocite",,,buff(not yellow) in color,,,roughly THE SAME density as shaftwood.

this stuff was harder than the meucci plastic ferrules, and to repeat, about the same hardness/density as shaftwood. "cerocite" may have been one of many generic names, i have no idea. it does scratch but does not wear down like the meucci stuff, and it cuts similiar to wood i believe.
 
If I'm not mistaken what you are asking for was used by Adam cues. Same ferrule as used on the Adam GB series. Ivory colored, harder than plastic, a bit harder to accept glue as well. It was called Ceromeld.;)
 
bruin70 said:
i was wondering if any cuemakers here have some old(or new, whatever) PLASTIC ferrules. specifically, they were called "cerocite",,,buff(not yellow) in color,,,roughly THE SAME density as shaftwood.

this stuff was harder than the meucci plastic ferrules, and to repeat, about the same hardness/density as shaftwood. "cerocite" may have been one of many generic names, i have no idea. it does scratch but does not wear down like the meucci stuff, and it cuts similiar to wood i believe.
Click to expand...


how much do you want?
 
Varney Cues said:
If I'm not mistaken what you are asking for was used by Adam cues. Same ferrule as used on the Adam GB series. Ivory colored, harder than plastic, a bit harder to accept glue as well. It was called Ceromeld.;)
Click to expand...

you may be exactly right. when i ordered my first peterson, i told craig i needed something that would give me good action. his shafts tapered a lot and because my stroke was only so-so, i asked him to give me something with action but without sacraficing the integrity of his ideal cue.

he said he would give me a cerocite ferrule and described the properties i stated, saying that this would give me better action on his cues.

craig, as everyone must know by now, worked for national chalk in the 60's along with frank meucci and dick helmstetter, so your link to adam does not surprise me.

interesting that you would mention the glue problem, because those ferrules "click" a teeny bit, as if they weren't glued properly. i never had them fixed because nothing worse than the clicky noise ever happened.
 
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bruin70 said:
interesting that you would mention the glue problem, because those ferrules "click" a teeny bit, as if they weren't glued properly. i never had them fixed because nothing worse than the clicky noise ever happened.
Click to expand...

Probably the tip was clicking. Those ferrules were famous for not wanting to hold a tip on with CA. A lot like old fiber ferrules...often the CA didn't properly bond the tip & ferrule. It would allow chalk to get under the tip...causing the "click". Often if you pushed the tip off with your finger...you could see just exactly where it glued & where it didn't. You had to use the "Searing" method for a proper bond.;)
 
bruin70 said:
what's the searing method?
Click to expand...
Learned it on this forum.:D
I've adopted this method now & have had ZERO tips come off...even hard to glue tips & ferrules...even if the cue falls over on a hard floor.
He basically just allows a thin layer of CA, like a primer if you will, to dry on both the ferrule face & tip back. Then lightly scuff each and then glue as normal with the CA. Often with some tips such as the Moori III...the CA will want to soak into the tip and not allow the best bond. This even works on old fiber ferrules...where as before the CA would just bond the tip to the wood tenon and not the fibre ferrule.
One of the best tips I've learned...thank you Mr. Searing.;)
 
Varney Cues said:
Learned it on this forum.:D
I've adopted this method now & have had ZERO tips come off...even hard to glue tips & ferrules...even if the cue falls over on a hard floor.
He basically just allows a thin layer of CA, like a primer if you will, to dry on both the ferrule face & tip back. Then lightly scuff each and then glue as normal with the CA. Often with some tips such as the Moori III...the CA will want to soak into the tip and not allow the best bond. This even works on old fiber ferrules...where as before the CA would just bond the tip to the wood tenon and not the fibre ferrule.
One of the best tips I've learned...thank you Mr. Searing.;)
Click to expand...


that's what craig peterson did with ALL his tip/ferrules. essentially, he sealed them first.:) craig said he went through about 20 steps with his shaft building that he knew for a fact other cuemakers didn't totally follow.

he never told me what they were, though. :( i shoulda pushed him.
 
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