Haha, you NEED a table bad enough to sell your big screen and all your furniture? Sounds more like an addiction to me, but I too love the game so I have no room to talk. You are smart to get advice prior to just buying a table.
As far as which table to get, manufacturer names such as Brunswick or Olhausen don’t mean squat. Although both lines make a plethora of QUALITY tables, they also have their fair share of not so great tables. When you go with a Gold Crown, you know it will have excellent quality. So use extreme caution when thinking a table is great and worth the $$ because of a simple name.
Being in the market for a table myself, here are some of the basics I have learned:
1) You would like to have a minimum 1” thick slate. As you will notice, most the “good” tables come with this, but some of the cheaper ones try to give you ¾” or even 7/8” slate. Without physically measuring the slate, it is hard to tell a difference in 7/8” and 1”. Some of the better tables come with 1.25” slate. Your slate will likely be Italian, but some use Brazilian. Also, China is beginning to get into the mix and while the slate itself should be okay, some people are a little concerned rather they have the proper technology to properly hone the slate to the smoothness required. Personally I would try to find one that uses Italian or Brazilian.
2) It won’t matter much if you have great slate, and a crappy frame. Methods vary by each manufacturer, but one of the nicest frames I have seen is made by Kasson. They utilize 2 cross beams that run across the width of the table like everyone else. But they also utilize 2 cross beams that run the length of the table. The overall effect is a VERY sturdy table. Others simply don’t go that far, but you can tell a lot by looking at the table and the construction techniques used. For instance, glue and staples won’t be as strong as screws. I would suggest looking at places that sell cheaper tables and get an idea of how they construct their frames, then go look at a Gold Crown table and compare it to them. You will get a real good idea of what you need. The basic idea is the table will hold firm over centuries. Some tables will actually “sway” when you lean on them or bump them. That is bad, and is a result of a lesser quality frame. Also, I might note that some manufacturers construct their cabinets in a manner that CANNOT be taken apart. Only the legs and slate are removable. This isn’t a real big deal unless you have a tight space to move it into, and then you will realize the difference.
3) Things like cushions, rails, cloth & pockets (especially leather pockets) add up to real money. I think the best way to test the cushions is to simply play on the table and see how the ball responds. Also, cloth wear will vary by each USED table you look at. If you plan on putting on some Simonis (the best available) then it’s a null point, but if you can’t do it right away…take a close look at cloth and make sure it can last you until you can afford to replace it. Rails are easy to tell if they are good or not, but be sure and notice if the sights are intact and in good condition or not.
4) The more intricate carvings and fancy woodwork you have, the more you will pay. Plain & simple.
5) Accessories such as cues, balls, racks, brushes, etc. in my opinion add no “real” value to the table unless you have something of HIGH quality such as a set of Centennial balls or Meucci cue. Don’t fall for the trick of companies offering you their “beginner” kit. Sure it gets your started, and the quality may be decent…but it’s probably not going to be what you KEEP on your table (unless you want the kids to play with the lesser quality stuff). So yeah, it’s worth something, but don’t add a lot for it.
6) Moving expenses are generally around the $350 +/- mark to move and setup your table. This applies to either a new or used table, but the dealers that sell new stuff just generally tell you a price and tells you it includes the delivery and setup. Either way, you are paying for it, unless you do a “cash & carry” special. Now granted, you can do it yourself and save a few bucks. I’m gonna move my table myself when I buy it, but when it comes to the final setup I will call in the pros to have them finish it. That will cost around $150 or so. But worth it once you get the table to it’s final home. Sometimes people overlook this cost when buying a table, but it will sometimes bite you in the rear if you don’t get a good enough deal on a USED table.
7) For me, buying a table over eBay is not realistic unless I can find someone selling one that is in my locality so I can go put my hands on it and maybe play a few games. If you buy from someone located far away, you will need to pay to transport the table (or got get it yourself). Both are more expensive than trying to buy locally. Plus I just like the fact I can see if the leather pockets are scarred up, or the wood needs some repair or this or that. Not that I think eBay is bad, just this is an item that is not quite as “eBay friendly” as others. If you buy it that way….use caution.
8) Once you determine the table you want to buy, go check out a new one to see if you could buy it for the same price or reasonably close after you factor moving, setting up & repair costs of the used table. If you aren’t saving at least 25% over a new table that will come with a lifetime warranty, is it really a savings?
I’m sure some of the more experienced can provide a better breakdown, but these are the basics I have been learning as I’ve been looking. Maybe they will help you too.
Good luck,
NL
