Identify a pool table

rdfares

Registered
I posted this in another section and was told this may be the best place to ask.
So here goes

Identify a pool table - Today, 08:03 PM



I have a 8 foot 3 piece slate table. There is no markings with exception, MADE IN CHINA under , nothing else. It does have steel rails under it, plastic pockets. My wife bought for me about 19 years ago for around 1000.00. Not sure how that relates to todays pricing. I have some photos of it. Basically, I need to recover the table as well, replace the rails. I measured the rail to be 1 9/16 " to tip of bumper to the slate, where the ball would contact. So I believe the rails are K66. Knowing this is not a Diamond table, I do shoot APA and tournaments, I want to get he speed and playability of a faster table. Since I can only work with what I have, getting new parts for it is the best way I can achieve that. If anyone has any ideas or suggestions, please pass it along.\\

the table also had an option to have the balls return to the end but she decided not to have that.

The rails measure at 1 9/16 to ball contact from table top. I assume they are K66 rails but not 100% sure

I want a fast table so will most likely go with Somonis CLoth or something comparable, suggestions appreciated. Also want the rails to be as close to true as a diamond table but with out buying a diamond table or spending enough that would buy a used diamond, Just trying to Revie this old table and be able to practice well enough to compete again. I shoot APA and some tournaments and want to expand on that.

thanks
 

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fastone371

Certifiable
Silver Member
I doubt that you will get it to play like a Diamond or other high end commercial tables without buying one. One big thing that affects the speed that a table plays is the sub-rail angle where the cushion mounts as can be seen in the differences between a blue and red label Diamond which both use the same cushion but different sub-rail angle I believe. Also to maintain the cushion accuracy and speed when a ball hits the cushion the rails must bolt thru the slate, some residential tables did not have rail bolts drilled thru the slate.
 

rexus31

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Also to maintain the cushion accuracy and speed when a ball hits the cushion the rails must bolt thru the slate, some residential tables did not have rail bolts drilled thru the slate.

I disagree with this statement. I had an old AMF Commercial table with T Rails and Artemis rubber and it played great.

 

redwolf88

Registered
I just recovered my table with "Worsted Fast Speed Pool Table Felt - Billiard Cloth" . I am not sure if you can post vendors here but if you do a google on the quote you will find it. It is a 60 % wool 40% acrylic fabric and it is fast. I never scratched so much but now I have an excuse !
one thing about this cloth is that it has a rip stop weave, so you can not just cut a inch then rip it straight. it just won't rip. I used a wrapping paper razor to cut the 7 inch strips for cushions. The cloth is 61 inches wide which made it easy to stretch and staple . and it was right about 115.00 shipped. I got the english green and boy is that a bright green look. St Paddys day all year long. Hope this adds to thread.
 

garczar

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I posted this in another section and was told this may be the best place to ask.
So here goes

Identify a pool table - Today, 08:03 PM



I have a 8 foot 3 piece slate table. There is no markings with exception, MADE IN CHINA under , nothing else. It does have steel rails under it, plastic pockets. My wife bought for me about 19 years ago for around 1000.00. Not sure how that relates to todays pricing. I have some photos of it. Basically, I need to recover the table as well, replace the rails. I measured the rail to be 1 9/16 " to tip of bumper to the slate, where the ball would contact. So I believe the rails are K66. Knowing this is not a Diamond table, I do shoot APA and tournaments, I want to get he speed and playability of a faster table. Since I can only work with what I have, getting new parts for it is the best way I can achieve that. If anyone has any ideas or suggestions, please pass it along.\\

the table also had an option to have the balls return to the end but she decided not to have that.

The rails measure at 1 9/16 to ball contact from table top. I assume they are K66 rails but not 100% sure

I want a fast table so will most likely go with Somonis CLoth or something comparable, suggestions appreciated. Also want the rails to be as close to true as a diamond table but with out buying a diamond table or spending enough that would buy a used diamond, Just trying to Revie this old table and be able to practice well enough to compete again. I shoot APA and some tournaments and want to expand on that.

thanks
My $.02? Just put fresh rubber and cloth on it and use it. To get lt like a Diamond is both A.Expensive and B. Likely impossible on this table.
 

fastone371

Certifiable
Silver Member
I disagree with this statement. I had an old AMF Commercial table with T Rails and Artemis rubber and it played great.


That is also a commercial table as you stated, my guess is that it is a little more substantial than a home table.
 

rdfares

Registered
well, I went to remove the rails from the table, I saw they are also bolted from the underside as well. I assume I should take the entire rail system off the table and then remove the sides. Then do the new rubber rails. Reverse order and get it all back together
 
Last edited:

fastone371

Certifiable
Silver Member
well, I went to remove the rails from the table, I saw they are also bolted from the underside as well. I assume I should take the entire rail system off the table and then remove the sides. Then do the new rubber rails. Reverse order and get it all back together

I think most table mechanics unbolt all 4 rails from the table so you have a large rectangle then flip it over upside down on the table and finish the work.
 
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