if buying a cue, how to test for straightness of a cue

justabrake

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
if buying a cue "BUT" theres no table to roll it on, how can you fieldtest it for straightness, what would you do to see if it's straight? do you bring a mirror,glass, piece of wood with you,or do you look down the cue and roll it by eye, how can you field test a cue for it's straightness, when not in a poolroom ?

Steven
 
justabrake said:
if buying a cue "BUT" theres no table to roll it on, how can you fieldtest it for straightness, what would you do to see if it's straight? do you bring a mirror,glass, piece of wood with you,or do you look down the cue and roll it by eye, how can you field test a cue for it's straightness, when not in a poolroom ?

Steven

throw it down on the cement sidewalk and roll it with the bottom of your shoe:)
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believe it or not, you can tell by simply looking at the shaft. look at it straight on first, then look down the shaft from the joint and slowly rotate it. tapered shafts are much harder to see than pro tapered shafts.

or use the doorframe, or door edge.
 
Rolling it on a table is decieving...put it together, then with it tip up, spin in between your hands....if it's warped you'll see it as you spin it....

EDIT: put your hands just under the tip....
________
 
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justabrake said:
if buying a cue "BUT" theres no table to roll it on, how can you fieldtest it for straightness, what would you do to see if it's straight? do you bring a mirror,glass, piece of wood with you,or do you look down the cue and roll it by eye, how can you field test a cue for it's straightness, when not in a poolroom ?

Steven


When buying a cue, YOU as the purchaser, should request the ability to "test" the cue. Test it in anyway you see fit to satisfy your criterion.

If the "seller" won't allow you this option, then just walk away.

If you think the stick is worth it, and the seller isn't showing faith in his/her work, then it's not worth what you think they are selling it at.

A stick will sell itself if allowed, else, you're allowing outside personal influence to make a judgement for you.
 
showboat said:
Rolling it on a table is decieving...put it together, then with it tip up, spin in between your hands....if it's warped you'll see it as you spin it....

EDIT: put your hands just under the tip....
Yes, I do that sometimes.
You can also just look down the shaft as you slowly turn the cue.
Or, just lean the cue against some table with a relatively straight edge, then roll the cue slowly along the edge, you will see the warpage if there is one.
 
Is it straight

Any flat surface will do table or dresser. Take just the shaft put it on the flat surface bend down to eye level, spin or rotate the shaft don't roll it. If you see up and down movement between shaft and table it is somewhat crooked. A very slight amount is okay. Up and down lifting of the tip is a reject. Then do the same with the butt. Up and down of the joint collar is a reject. then you can assemble the cue and check for joint alignment by sighting unless the kithen table is long enough. NEVER BUY A CUE IN A DARK PARKING LOT.:cool: :rolleyes:
 
justabrake said:
if buying a cue "BUT" theres no table to roll it on, how can you fieldtest it for straightness, what would you do to see if it's straight? do you bring a mirror,glass, piece of wood with you,or do you look down the cue and roll it by eye, how can you field test a cue for it's straightness, when not in a poolroom ?

Steven


I needed to check a couple of shafts 1 time with no flat lying surface around. so i just put it up against a flat door and rolled them slowly to see. and what made it even better was that it was at eye level. hope this helps....................mike
 
When testing a cue, you HAVE to check the joint. i.e. shaft to butt.

I've seen where less than 7 thousanths at the join face make a stick totally undesirable to play with.
 
rackem said:
Any flat surface will do table or dresser. Take just the shaft put it on the flat surface bend down to eye level, spin or rotate the shaft don't roll it. If you see up and down movement between shaft and table it is somewhat crooked. A very slight amount is okay. Up and down lifting of the tip is a reject. Then do the same with the butt. Up and down of the joint collar is a reject. then you can assemble the cue and check for joint alignment by sighting unless the kithen table is long enough. NEVER BUY A CUE IN A DARK PARKING LOT.:cool: :rolleyes:

I do the same thing. Then, if the shaft and butt are straight but the cue doesn't sight straight, chances are the joint needs to be re-faced or the pin was knocked off center.
 
Ronoh said:
When testing a cue, you HAVE to check the joint. i.e. shaft to butt.

I've seen where less than 7 thousanths at the join face make a stick totally undesirable to play with.

i have never encountered a cue that screwed on crooked.
 
bruin70 said:
i have never encountered a cue that screwed on crooked.

You're a lucky person. I've encountered well over a dozen cues where the shaft rolls true and the butt rolls true, but when the two meet as a whole, they wobble like a belly dancer.

Thats what's great about billiards, we all have had different experiences...
 
TATE said:
I do the same thing. Then, if the shaft and butt are straight but the cue doesn't sight straight, chances are the joint needs to be re-faced or the pin was knocked off center.

That's because we are both Palmer guys buddy. Any time you need help with something Green triangle or newer I'm there. I really appreciate all your work. Do you have any pictures of the old shop or West End Billiards where they all played. Funny I was raised back there but knew nothing of Palmer back then. Sure wish I had!!
 
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