If you could start all over.

[sliprock]

This may sound corny, but....

If you could travel back to the time when you first started building cues, What advice would the "present you" give to the "past you"? What gave you the most trouble in the begining? Was it learning the different woods, gluing, finishing, machinery? Thanks

 

[cueman]

FINISHING! Finishing is the number one pain in the rear in cue building. I even quit building for a few months because I was staying in so bad of a mood over finish problems. Got a Turbine system that sprayed the same all the time and that solved most of my problems. Don't waste your time with a cheap gun and compressor. Go buy a Turbine HVLP system and save the headaches if you want to spray. If not master the Super Glue or Cue Cote epoxy finish. I use the Cue Cote now and have not sprayed a cue in years.

 

[macguy]

FINISHING! Finishing is the number one pain in the rear in cue building. I even quit building for a few months because I was staying in so bad of a mood over finish problems. Got a Turbine system that sprayed the same all the time and that solved most of my problems. Don't waste your time with a cheap gun and compressor. Go buy a Turbine HVLP system and save the headaches if you want to spray. If not master the Super Glue or Cue Cote epoxy finish. I use the Cue Cote now and have not sprayed a cue in years.

With fear of sounding dumb, what is Cue Cote ?

 

[WilleeCue]

FINISHING! Finishing is the number one pain in the rear in cue building. I even quit building for a few months because I was staying in so bad of a mood over finish problems. Got a Turbine system that sprayed the same all the time and that solved most of my problems. Don't waste your time with a cheap gun and compressor. Go buy a Turbine HVLP system and save the headaches if you want to spray. QUOTE]

Wow Chris, we are exactly oppsite.
I started off with an $800 Turbinair system and had nothing but problems with it.
replaced it with a compressor and touch up gun from Harbor Frieght for less than $200 hoses and all and the problems have vanished. I think the HVLP was drying the auto clearcoat a bit as it travled to the cue and it never would flow out properly. The new system works like a champ with auto and UV cure finishes. Go fugure.

 

[Buddha Jones]

Will, I sent you a PM.

 

[cueman]

With fear of sounding dumb, what is Cue Cote ?

Cue Cote is a two part epoxy finish. You have to build a device to slow rotate the cue at 25 to 50 rpms for a few hours for it to level out. Just brush or rub it on with a rubber gloved finger and let it level out. Sticks really well and produces a deep gloss finish in one to two coats. Down side is that thickness is harder to regulate and finish looks a little wavy when sighting down the cue.
WILLIE,
Maybe your turbine was just too good. Mine was a cheaper $300 system by Wagner. Got their better gun with it or it would have been less than $200. Also the main key was to get the optional heavy fluid needle and it really sprayed good. Did you switch out the needle?

 

[bandido]

Nothing, I made cues for myself. This is why I decided to spend the money, I was saving for a custom cue, on a Cincinatti lathe (1988) that I saw in the white sheet. I recognize too the constant progress in technology (equipment, adhesives, finishes and methodology) and kept abreast with it the way I deemed appropriate to my current situation and want. My production expanded because somebody comes along and buys what I was using. I craft cues to answer my questions and to step up to the challenges that I pose to myself. I don't depend on it for a living, it answers to a higher need.
Edwin Reyes

 

[((VH))]

Nothing, I made cues for myself. This is why I decided to spend the money, I was saving for a custom cue, on a Cincinatti lathe (1988) that I saw in the white sheet. I recognize too the constant progress in technology (equipment, adhesives, finishes and methodology) and kept abreast with it the way I deemed appropriate to my current situation and want. My production expanded because somebody comes along and buys what I was using. I craft cues to answer my questions and to step up to the challenges that I pose to myself. I don't depend on it for a living, it answers to a higher need.
Edwin Reyes

Great post Bandido... and You and I agree that it's a painful and challenging growth. And those CM's here who persevere thru aches and pains deserves to be called cuemakers.

 

[cuesmith]

This may sound corny, but....

If you could travel back to the time when you first started building cues, What advice would the "present you" give to the "past you"? What gave you the most trouble in the begining? Was it learning the different woods, gluing, finishing, machinery? Thanks

Good Question!

There are several things I'd do differently. As previously mentioned, the "Finish" is the thing that gives most aspiring cuemakers the most problems in the beginning. I think I tried every clear substance known to man! I now have a UV system and wouldn't change if my life depended on it!

As I mentioned in another thread, I don't believe in the "one machine to do all approach"! I'd recommend visiting as many cuemakers as you can, see what people are using to do what! Hit the auctions and buy surplus machinery and adapt them to cuemaking.

Learn to "BARTER"!!! Once you have the basics down, and are able to put out some decent cues, a good way to get your cues out in peoples hands is to Barter! New cuemakers have a hard time getting a decent buck for their cues, but, often you can do a trade with someone who would not or could not spend cash for your product. Almost everyone has connections of some sort, usually connected to their occupation. If you're a housepainter, it's not that big of a deal to "paint a house", but to the average person it's a huge chore. I'd rather make someone a cue or two, than paint my house! Over the years I've bartered for, new roof's on my home, cars, motorcycles, trucks, paint jobs on my car, transmission rebuilds, carpeting in my home, a trip for 2 to Vegas, construction of a garage and large shed, tools and machinery etc... In each case I've put cues in the hands of people who would not have paid cash for a cue. Mostly they could not afford or justify the expense, but trading their labor or surplus items for a cue was possible. Not only does this give you exposure, you often get things, YOU couldn't afford or justify the expense of buying! It's a win/win situation and a way to get rid of the cues you're stockpiling! This is kind of getting away from the original question, but I feel it's good advise for someone starting out!

Good Luck & Keep you day job!

Sherm

 

[blud]

new shop

This may sound corny, but....

If you could travel back to the time when you first started building cues, What advice would the "present you" give to the "past you"? What gave you the most trouble in the begining? Was it learning the different woods, gluing, finishing, machinery? Thanks

Very good questions here, Slip,

If I could start all over?

Machinery,
1.- buy a new engine lathe ,[gear-head], belt drive is ok too.
2.- Build a kick-a** paint booth,and one "SATA", HVLP cup gun, [german made, it's the best in my opinion].And a clean forced air suit and mask.
3.- Build a dry room to store wood, [humidity controled room].
4.- One BLUD, CNC miiling machine,[parts only].
5.- Build another [second] BLUD,CNC pocket machine [female pockets].
6.- have a multi-purpose machine to cut tennons, cut rings, cut ferrules, drill, bore holes, grind threads, machine both ends of butts and shafts, size joints.All auto-matic,........
7.- have a BLUD, jig for cutting VEE POINTS, and another BLUD folding jig for venners.
8.- have one BLUD CNC, saw/lathe [4 head] for handles, shafts, and butts.
9.- have the very best dust collecting machine that money can buy. [I consider ALL WOODS to be bad for your health].
10.- one sanding, and prep lathe.
11.- one compounding lathe.
12.- one wraping lathe, by BLUD..
13.- one doweling machine.
14.- one german made 16" band saw.[ and a blud wood lenght jig].
15.- one thichness sander.
16.- one thickness plainer.
17.- one cut off saw, [for sizing lenghth's of woods].
18.- one BLUD, center-drilling machine.
19.- Shop would be no more than 600 sq.ft.
20.- Kick-a** sound system. [rock on]..
21.- Plenty of A/C.......
22.- Refer-, for the cold stuff.....

Could of missed a couple of things, but with about 20K in the bank and 15 to 20K in inventory, rock and roll.Take your time, build nice stuff, treat all folks the same, "FAIR".

Bartering, yes, that works, from the begining, however, it's best to sell the product, get the cash and you come way out ahead.[ but sometimes cash is on the short side].Been there done that.........

blud

 

[bandido]

Good Question!
Learn to "BARTER"!!! Once you have the basics down, and are able to put out some decent cues, a good way to get your cues out in peoples hands is to Barter! New cuemakers have a hard time getting a decent buck for their cues, but, often you can do a trade with someone who would not or could not spend cash for your product. Almost everyone has connections of some sort, usually connected to their occupation. If you're a housepainter, it's not that big of a deal to "paint a house", but to the average person it's a huge chore. I'd rather make someone a cue or two, than paint my house! Over the years I've bartered for, new roof's on my home, cars, motorcycles, trucks, paint jobs on my car, transmission rebuilds, carpeting in my home, a trip for 2 to Vegas, construction of a garage and large shed, tools and machinery etc... In each case I've put cues in the hands of people who would not have paid cash for a cue. Mostly they could not afford or justify the expense, but trading their labor or surplus items for a cue was possible. Not only does this give you exposure, you often get things, YOU couldn't afford or justify the expense of buying! It's a win/win situation and a way to get rid of the cues you're stockpiling! This is kind of getting away from the original question, but I feel it's good advise for someone starting out!

Good Luck & Keep you day job!

Sherm

Hi Sherm! Glad to see you here. Bartering is a great advise and I've done a few myself. Cars (2), Motorcycles(4) and package tours from a Travel agent were the ones that came my way.
Edwin Reyes

 

[Joseph Cues]

Since I'm just a starter, my big advice is find quality wood and start stocking up early.
Learn how to pick them and store them.
You can always sell them later if you quit or not go through with your plans.
75% of cuemakers go out within the first two years or so according to one expert.
Also, a ton of cuemakers make crappy cues in the beginning. They start out bad and have to work to clean up their name after that.
Another advice if I may is don't buy blanks. I know a lot of cueamakers do but don't do it. If you can't make blanks, learn how. I know one maker locally who did that for years. When I say years, I mean YEARS. His cues have no resale value, hit like kaka and his old ones look like a dozen cue names out there.
One more and I'll probably get lynched for this but, here it goes. Don't buy wood from another cuemaker expecting good wood. You'll be buying his scraps. Expect those wood to be B grade at best. If you buy wood from another cuemaker, make sure he's a good supplier and a person of his own word. I made that mistake. Paid premium dollar for this scammer's shaft woods. Nice story behind his shaft woods. A grade quality, blah , blah, blah, "these are the same ones we use on our custom cues", blah, blah, blah. Half of them were crap. The maker/supplier obviously threw in half kaka shafts with the rest of the lot.
I have shaft wood supplier now who I could buy shaft wood from and sell them for a profit, but I don't. Great shaft wood are getting harder to find. I hope you find a nice supplier.

 

[blud]

fair

Since I'm just a starter, my big advice is find quality wood and start stocking up early.
Learn how to pick them and store them.
You can always sell them later if you quit or not go through with your plans.
75% of cuemakers go out within the first two years or so according to one expert.
Also, a ton of cuemakers make crappy cues in the beginning. They start out bad and have to work to clean up their name after that.
Another advice if I may is don't buy blanks. I know a lot of cueamakers do but don't do it. If you can't make blanks, learn how. I know one maker locally who did that for years. When I say years, I mean YEARS. His cues have no resale value, hit like kaka and his old ones look like a dozen cue names out there.
One more and I'll probably get lynched for this but, here it goes. Don't buy wood from another cuemaker expecting good wood. You'll be buying his scraps. Expect those wood to be B grade at best. If you buy wood from another cuemaker, make sure he's a good supplier and a person of his own word. I made that mistake. Paid premium dollar for this scammer's shaft woods. Nice story behind his shaft woods. A grade quality, blah , blah, blah, "these are the same ones we use on our custom cues", blah, blah, blah. Half of them were crap. The maker/supplier obviously threw in half kaka shafts with the rest of the lot.
I have shaft wood supplier now who I could buy shaft wood from and sell them for a profit, but I don't. Great shaft wood are getting harder to find. I hope you find a nice supplier.

Joey, I do take offence to your statement. Please, do not compare all of us who sell shaft woods to the guy who you think screwed you. I sell shaft wood and have many repeat customers.

REPUTATION!
I have my reputation on the line.It's not yours, it's mine.

I sell kick-a** shaft dowels, for $8.00........[ pLus shiping]..
Not much money when I am averaging about 90% real good shafts out of 100.... [ the norm is about 60%, WITH OTHER WOOD SUPPLIERS,and has been forever with cuemakers]....

Average it out with the normal shaft wood, at $8.00 thats $800.00 for 100, and you loose 40%, thats $320.00, down the tubes. So now thoses 60 cost you $13.35 each. Expensive aren't they?

Buy my dowels at $8.00, and the average cost for the 90, $9.77 each.
Not all of us grade woods the same, however, I been doing this a long time. The woods I'am getting is the best wood dowels I have seen in 20 plus years. Clean, clear, and white, and still dence.They weight out around [an average] , 3.4 to 4.0 oz's.......finished...If you or anyone is interested, you can order from me. You got to buy at least 100 per order. However you can call and check with me, I might have someone who wants only 50, and then you and the other guy are in.....

At one time I pre-paid for all the wood, then when it came time for me to ship to a few people, they didn't have the cash. [ they no longer can buy through me]...So, because of them, I got stuck with my cash out there for a long time. Not a banker any longer.I pay for it when it's ordered, and you guys do the same.
blud
830-232-5991

 

[Joseph Cues]

If you buy wood from another cuemaker, make sure he's a good supplier and a person of his own word.

Blud, if you read this line, you would have not taken offense.