indexer set

[Dave38]

Is this an acceptible indexing set for doing inlays, etc.?
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-5C-INDEXER-...ryZ25264QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Thanks guy for the input.
Dave

 

[dbCustomCues]

That one works great.I have one on one of my jigs.

 

[rhncue]

Is this an acceptible indexing set for doing inlays, etc.?
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-5C-INDEXER-...ryZ25264QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Thanks guy for the input.
Dave

I've got a number of those that I've used for different indexing jobs in the past. At present I'm just using one set and that is on a jig that I throw onto my Mill to index my prongs when milling for V-groove points.

Dick

 

[RDCustomCues]

Yes this indexer would be fine for what you need it for.

 

[blud]

indexer

Is this an acceptible indexing set for doing inlays, etc.?
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-5C-INDEXER-...ryZ25264QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Thanks guy for the input.
Dave

Hi Dave, it will work great, but you need to keep it made up, meaning that there can not be any SLOP, in the indexer. I've seen guys use them and never clean or maintain them and with the indexing plate to far from the face plate, be off just a hair. Just make sure it's up flat to the plate, the pins slides in smooth, and not at the least little angle, and keep it clean.

I, like Dick, have one on a jig, for my big mill. Have had it for 30 plus years, same one. Keep it clean,,
blud

 

[Dave38]

Thanks guys, I'll be buying it this week, but wasn't sure how the import stuff was for quality or accuracy. I'm planning on mounting to t-slot aluminum, and pretty much leaving it there.
Dave

 

[QMAKER]

Indexer Set

I mounted mine on some aluminum plate so I could rotate it with the vise.
A dial indicator tells me when I have the correct angle for points or whatever.
I opted to use two collets, instead of the tailstock, so I could spring mount the
piece to be cut. Certainly accurate enough for what we are doing.

Bob Flynn
denalicues.com
International Cuemakers Assoc.

 

[DaveK]

.... I opted to use two collets, instead of the tailstock, so I could spring mount the piece to be cut.

What an excellent idea ! The indexer is less expensive than the tailstock You can often find the indexer for $25 - $30 while the tailstocks are commony $45 by themselves !

Dave

 

[brianna187]

cnc indexing

heres how i do my points the program runs 6:13 it leaves 0.45 in the center between sides and 15k between venners with the chage of a number on the last pass we can touch or overlap veneers for the full splice look do it that way you have to glue in your points befroe indexing to the next location.

 

[brianna187]

Another way to index points

we can do this way also if we want to do recuts and leave the foraem in while glue dries

 

[Mc2]

we can do this way also if we want to do recuts and leave the foraem in while glue dries

A picture is worth a thousand words. Thanks Lee. I use my dial indicator to determine run out and depth but I never used it for getting my final depth while cutting.


Jim.

 

[Dave38]

A picture is worth a thousand words. Thanks Lee. I use my dial indicator to determine run out and depth but I never used it for getting my final depth while cutting.


Jim.

I also noticed what appears to be a removable stop on the y axis so you can't go to deep, pretty nice idea. Thanks Lee,
Dave

 

[Mc2]

I mounted mine on some aluminum plate so I could rotate it with the vise.
A dial indicator tells me when I have the correct angle for points or whatever.
I opted to use two collets, instead of the tailstock, so I could spring mount the
piece to be cut. Certainly accurate enough for what we are doing.

Bob Flynn
denalicues.com
International Cuemakers Assoc.

Hey Bob, same mill that we have. Can I assume that you cut your points on the fastes speed 6k? How do you like the dro. Did you have to mount that yourself?

thanks, jim.

 

[QMAKER]

Grizzley Wood Mill

Hey Bob, same mill that we have. Can I assume that you cut your points on the fastes speed 6k? How do you like the dro. Did you have to mount that yourself?

thanks, jim.

Hi Jim: Yes, I run it on the fastest speed and have changed cutters since that
pic was taken about 6 months ago. The cutter I use is the same as Brianna shows in their post. The 1/2 shank is a big plus. The DRO I mounted myself.
A pain in the butt to do, but once done you can't live without it. If you need any help with the set-up let me know--I'll be glad to help--if I can.

Bob Flynn
denalicues.com
International Cuemakers Assn.

 

[blud]

indexer

I mounted mine on some aluminum plate so I could rotate it with the vise.
A dial indicator tells me when I have the correct angle for points or whatever.
I opted to use two collets, instead of the tailstock, so I could spring mount the
piece to be cut. Certainly accurate enough for what we are doing.

Bob Flynn
denalicues.com
International Cuemakers Assoc.

Hey, Bob, your set up is much like mine, however, I also have a stablizer that holds the forearm in place [ it's bolted to my main fixture, of to the side. it's a flat plate, with an aluminum tube, welded to it, It's tapered to fit the angle of the forearm,], and has only one side expossed to the 90 degree wheel, with this added stability, the points come much closer, and look very nice.

I also, use a larger tool than you or Lee, I have 2- 90 degree tools X 3/4" thich, one is 3" the other is, 4", by having a larger dia. it leaves a smoother finish, because the "tip speed" is much faster with the larger wheels. As far as the width between the Pockets, mine are around .060Thds, this is also depending on the lenght and depth of cut....
blud

 

[brianna187]

leneord the one on my cnc is 1" 2 blades wide at the mouth the other on the mill is 3/4 23 tooth

 

[QMAKER]

Milling Points grooves

Hey, Bob, your set up is much like mine, however, I also have a stablizer that holds the forearm in place [ it's bolted to my main fixture, of to the side. it's a flat plate, with an aluminum tube, welded to it, It's tapered to fit the angle of the forearm,], and has only one side expossed to the 90 degree wheel, with this added stability, the points come much closer, and look very nice.

I also, use a larger tool than you or Lee, I have 2- 90 degree tools X 3/4" thich, one is 3" the other is, 4", by having a larger dia. it leaves a smoother finish, because the "tip speed" is much faster with the larger wheels. As far as the width between the Pockets, mine are around .060Thds, this is also depending on the lenght and depth of cut....
blud

Thanks for the info Blud. The stabilizer is a good idea. I will try it when I cut the points on 1 piece butts. Also, if you dont mind, where did you get the 4"
cutters?

Bob @ Denali Cues

 

[Matthys]

hi Lee, Was curous what controller you use with your spindle on your CNC machine. Looks similar to a perske which is what I may be using in the machine I am in the process of building. Also what do you guys do use on in a 5c indexer for 7 pointers or do you do them? I also use a 5c on a bridgeport but don't have a way to do 7 because the index falls on a .5. I use the same extruded aluminum for the jig bed and cutter as Lee as well. Works great

 

[brianna187]

a 4x484 soft step testra using mach 3 software 4 axis system