Installing Taom Fusion tip on Revo shaft

M

mnsneakypete

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I'm getting back into some tip work after a few years away, so I'm trying to get up to speed with the new equipment.

I'm trying to get a blue Taom fusion tip on a new Revo shaft. After removing the stock tip, I see some yellow chalky residue on the V-Tek Silencer pad. Thinking its from the prior tip, I take a few more thousandths of an inch off the silencer pad, but the yellow chalky stuff is still there. I sand very lightly -same result. Has anyone seen this before? Is the yellow chalky stuff normal? I'm expecting red residue, not yellow.

Second question - when installing the Taom fusion tip, should I lightly sand the "glue" side to remove the shine, or just let it be?

Third - do you recommend Loctite gel control or regular Loctite professional liquid glue in this situation?

Thanks.
 
The pad comes off as a red/orange ish powder, totally normal.
Sand the tip in a figure 8 on a flat surface I use 220 grit. Blow off, the spred a drop of ca on the underside of the tip, let it cure and repeat the steps. Finally clean both faces with isopropyl, let that evaporate, wrap the ferrule in paineters tape and glue on the tip.
 
Kim Bye said:
Sand the tip in a figure 8 on a flat surface I use 220 grit. Blow off, the spred a drop of ca on the underside of the tip, let it cure and repeat the steps. Finally clean both faces with isopropyl, let that evaporate, wrap the ferrule in paineters tape and glue on the tip.
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Just so I got this right and not mentioning the steps of the isopropyl and painters tape. . . . Do you put super glue on the Taom Fusion tip, let it harden, sand flat, and then glue again, this time to the ferrule?
 
Paul Bell said:
Just so I got this right and not mentioning the steps of the isopropyl and painters tape. . . . Do you put super glue on the Taom Fusion tip, let it harden, sand flat, and then glue again, this time to the ferrule?
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Yes. after sanding, superglue on the backside of the tip, let that cure, sand figure 8, blow clean and clean both surfaces (tip and ferrule face) with isopropyl.
Before gluing the tip on mask the ferrule/vault plate with painters tape.
Obviously use a quality glue like Loctite 454.
 
Paul Bell said:
Thanks
I have had so many failures with any of the tips with plastic bottoms that I'd given up on installing them.
I'll try your method.
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One tip on the CA. Try to get the newest/freshest you can find. Don't buy a package with dust on it!
 
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mnsneakypete said:
do you recommend Loctite gel control or regular Loctite professional liquid glue
Click to expand...

From another post on AZ, KamuiInsider recommended Loctite professional liquid for the clear and plastic-bottomed Kamui clear tips. For the regular Kamui tips he recommended Loctite gel:
KamuiInsider said:
You want to install using the loctite professional liquid for the clear and gel for the standard.
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I have had pretty good luck gluing cue tips except the plastic bottomed ones with a clear layer: Kamui clear, Rhino Time Crystal, and Paladin Precision (probably would also have had trouble with the similar kind of cue tip --- Konllen Rainbow). I goofed above thinking the Taom Fusion had a clear layer. I'm guessing Kim Bye's method should work for me with plastic-bottomed tips.

As far as BoogieMan's recommendation to use fresh glue, an easy way of doing that is to use the super-small 0.03 ounce bottles available in the Loctite Super Glue Ultra Gel minis. I cannot find, however, those bottles for Kim Bye's Loctite 454 or Loctite Professional super glues --- they come in bottles about 20 times larger than the Ultra Gel minis.
Prices per ounce: Loctite Gel Minis $71/ounce; Loctite Liquid Professional $14/ounce; Loctite 454 $137/ounce
 
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I started using the small gorilla glue tubes. When I used the big bottles I just wrote the date on it. After a month it got moved to only general use or prepping the tip. I do love that the loctite is a small tube in a fancy bottle.

I have a small fridge on my bench I keep them in.
 
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