Irish Linen Wrap Sealer ???

[ratcues]

When a wrap is properly applied with white glue, sponged, pressed, sponged, and then pressed out and dried under high speed, the linen is naturally burnished and sealed. No need for anything on the wrap. Used sparingly, black shoepolish works nicely on black wraps. I'm not a fan of sanded wraps or wraps sealed with dilute shellac or wax. Except for the purpose lubricating a too tight fitting shaft, I don't see a purpose for beeswax on a finshed cue--it's a dirt magnet!! JMO ICBW

Martin

tap, tap, tap.

 

[bubsbug]

I notice that a lot of people are using white elmers glue. A lot of the liteture out there tells me to use contact cement. The same stuff that most service men use to glue rubber to the rails of a pool table. What is best? What are the pro's and con's.

 

[JBCustomCues]

I've never heard of anyone using contact cement for a linen wrap before but i guess anything is possiable..

 

[rhncue]

I notice that a lot of people are using white elmers glue. A lot of the liteture out there tells me to use contact cement. The same stuff that most service men use to glue rubber to the rails of a pool table. What is best? What are the pro's and con's.

I can't believe anyone would recommend contact cement. Contact cement is what is used on Asian cues and that is the reason that I replace 20 Asian wraps for each American. The directions right on the can of contact cement states that for a permanent bond, both surfaces must be coated and left to get tacky. How do you coat both surfaces? Contact cement, under a wrap, never dries and lets the wrap shift a little causing a loop of linen to form and then the wrap is shot. I use a bunch of white glue and then after the wrap is installed and the cue is spinning, I use a wet rag to wash most of the excess out. Doing it this way you must be sure to press very well to insure that the wrap area is dry however.

By the way, I never use any wax or starch on linen. When damp, from humidity or a sweaty hand, they attract dirt and become sticky, IMO anyway.

Dick

 

[Arnot Wadsworth]

I notice that a lot of people are using white elmers glue. A lot of the liteture out there tells me to use contact cement. The same stuff that most service men use to glue rubber to the rails of a pool table. What is best? What are the pro's and con's.

What literature are you speaking about?

Contact cement is used for leather wraps and as Dick stated it is placed on both the leather and the handle wood.

 

[bubsbug]

I can't believe anyone would recommend contact cement. Contact cement is what is used on Asian cues and that is the reason that I replace 20 Asian wraps for each American. The directions right on the can of contact cement states that for a permanent bond, both surfaces must be coated and left to get tacky. How do you coat both surfaces? Contact cement, under a wrap, never dries and lets the wrap shift a little causing a loop of linen to form and then the wrap is shot. I use a bunch of white glue and then after the wrap is installed and the cue is spinning, I use a wet rag to wash most of the excess out. Doing it this way you must be sure to press very well to insure that the wrap area is dry however.

By the way, I never use any wax or starch on linen. When damp, from humidity or a sweaty hand, they attract dirt and become sticky, IMO anyway.

Dick

The fumes are getting to me. My mistake, I was think of leather wraps, not linen wraps.

 

[WheatCues]

Duplicate post ! ----DELETED----

 

[WheatCues]

Thanks for your responses !

I agree that pressing out the wrap using spray starch is effective and that has been a staple with my I L wraps since day one and of course they are installed with Elmer's glue and are pressed very smooth and/or to the customer's liking...

However, with the darker wraps (black, black/white etc.) the black fades into a deep gray after just a few uses and it makes the wrap look shoddy and not shiny or new, and I don't like to see my work look any different a few days after my customer leaves my shop.. that makes me feel like the shiny look was just for quick show and nothing more !

And of course I and the customer both want to feel the wrap so this is why after all these years of using silicone, shoe polish, sanding sealer etc... I'm just not happy with seeing the darker wraps lose that lustre when used briefly and sanding sealer has been the most effective so far !

Are there any other "magic" items that does NOT alter the feel of the I L wrap and still has some type of longevity ?


Thanks again, Eddie Wheat

 

[ratcues]

Thanks for your responses !

However, with the darker wraps (black, black/white etc.) the black fades into a deep gray after just a few uses and it makes the wrap look shoddy and not shiny or new, and I don't like to see my work look any different a few days after my customer leaves my shop.. that makes me feel like the shiny look was just for quick show and nothing more !


Thanks again, Eddie Wheat

For black wraps only, I install the same, Elmer's glue, wet press, dry press, then I may spin some black stain over it and press it again, and use a very thin layer of my sanding sealer. Its same as I use on shafts. Now, I not all sealer are created equal so test this first before doing so on a customer's cue.

IMO,there is no magic to the longevity. Wraps are normally glued with white glue for a reason. They are meant to be changed out. It is perishable just like a leather tip.