By "frequent" I mean every few days, or maybe 1-2 times a week, just enough to keep the shaft smooth to the touch. I'll give the shaft a light rub down with #0000 steel wool followed by 2000 grit sandpaper. I apply the same technique to the butt end (which I believe has an oil finish) when necessary, but much less frequently. I really like the result I get from this, but I don't know anything about wood and I don't want to do anything that might be harmful. Also, should I burnish with leather after the 2000 grit, or is just finishing with the sandpaper ok? Thanks for any info and replies.
Is #0000 steel wool too aggressive for frequent cleaning?
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Eric Wynne
Banned
You would get much better results with some 600 wet or dry sand paper . After sanding , wipe the dust off , then turn sand paper over to backside and wrap around shaft and stroke really hard to build up some heat from the friction . This will burnish the wood and make it stay smooth . When you finish playing for the day , take a towel , rag , billiard cloth , or saddle leather and burnish the shaft before you put it away and you won't let oils from your skin and crap from the table build up on the shaft to make it feel sticky . Sanding with steel wool or 2000 grit doesn't do a proper job and doing it as often as you do will ruin your shaft . You can purchase some shaft sealer from many sources and apply right after sanding , will help keep up the condition of you shaft . The heat from burnishing can give you a blister , so lighten up on the pressure a bit to prevent , but if it doesn't get hot , your doing it wrong ... good luck ...
Clean it first. Use a paper towel and some denatured alcohol. Better than that is a piece of magic eraser and denatured alcohol. You only need a 1/3rd piece of magic eraser to clean a shaft. Get rid of the steel wool, IMO. I don't recommend anything below 1000 grit as a routine on your shaft. If you are doing this that often, IMO, cleaning with the magic eraser (this is equivalent to around 1500-1700 grit) and then following up with some 1200-1500, then 2000, and then a burnish is plenty good.
One simple rule is use the minimum amount that is needed. That should tell you your answer. If you clean it like I mentioned, then use only your 2000 grit and it comes out just right for you, you are done. If not, try cleaning then 1500, then 2000, etc.
Try and be mindful of how even you apply pressure around the shaft when doing this by hand.
Kelly
One simple rule is use the minimum amount that is needed. That should tell you your answer. If you clean it like I mentioned, then use only your 2000 grit and it comes out just right for you, you are done. If not, try cleaning then 1500, then 2000, etc.
Try and be mindful of how even you apply pressure around the shaft when doing this by hand.
Kelly
azbluemach1
Member
You would get much better results with some 600 wet or dry sand paper . After sanding , wipe the dust off , then turn sand paper over to backside and wrap around shaft and stroke really hard to build up some heat from the friction . This will burnish the wood and make it stay smooth . When you finish playing for the day , take a towel , rag , billiard cloth , or saddle leather and burnish the shaft before you put it away and you won't let oils from your skin and crap from the table build up on the shaft to make it feel sticky . Sanding with steel wool or 2000 grit doesn't do a proper job and doing it as often as you do will ruin your shaft . You can purchase some shaft sealer from many sources and apply right after sanding , will help keep up the condition of you shaft . The heat from burnishing can give you a blister , so lighten up on the pressure a bit to prevent , but if it doesn't get hot , your doing it wrong ... good luck ...
Just to be clear, are you advocating using 600 grit one time, then sealing the shaft, or using it twice a week as the op originally said he was doing with his 2000?
I wish I would have taken a pic of a shaft on a cue I replaced the butt cap on for a player a while ago.
A nice little hour glass figure under the ferrule. I asked him what he uses to clean his shaft. Steel wool. 13mm tip and 12mm below the ferrule.
Steel wool has its uses in the shop but ya gotta think, steel wool can be very effective on stainless steel pots and even more effective on maple.
A nice little hour glass figure under the ferrule. I asked him what he uses to clean his shaft. Steel wool. 13mm tip and 12mm below the ferrule.
Steel wool has its uses in the shop but ya gotta think, steel wool can be very effective on stainless steel pots and even more effective on maple.
OK, sounds like the steel wool is bad news, at least for my purposes. I'll continue researching cue care and in the future I'll try to be a little more proactive by keeping my cue wiped down with a cloth while playing. When the shaft starts getting too gritty for that I'll try the magic eraser and/or the fine grit sand papers. Thanks again for all the replies.