is it just me....

Texas Carom Club

Texas Carom Club

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
who has a hard time trying to draw the cueball with a 13mm solid maple shaft? couldnt with my lepro, even worse seemingly with a milkdud, was much harder to cut off even with the razor
i just cant really get much to any draw, end up jumping the cueball more often .

i know a great stroker can do it, but thats not me
do i need to go back to layered tips to help me with that size shaft or????

i have another cue with a 12.5 dia maple shaft, and a hard layered tip that i can draw with ease.
 
i just started playing with my Jerry R 360 .... i can draw the cue full table length. CB and OB distance apart on 9ft diamond. can tell a difference though between LD shaft and standard maple shaft
 
i dont think diameter of tip is the problem or if it its a layered tip or not. The cue ball has no idea what kind tip you are using ..... just need to practice a bit.
 
Texas Carom Club said:
who has a hard time trying to draw the cueball with a 13mm solid maple shaft? couldnt with my lepro, even worse seemingly with a milkdud, was much harder to cut off even with the razor
i just cant really get much to any draw, end up jumping the cueball more often .

i know a great stroker can do it, but thats not me
do i need to go back to layered tips to help me with that size shaft or????

i have another cue with a 12.5 dia maple shaft, and a hard layered tip that i can draw with ease.
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Some shafts just don't draw as well as others. Not sure why that is, sometimes it could be the wood or even facing of the shaft and the butt.
Also, rising taper could be the culprit, ferrule material and so on.
Many times for fun we compared different shafts, with different cues, and as a group we had similar results. The better players would draw better but even there the whitey would travel differently depending on shaft/cue combo.

Also, it it is harder to draw with a hard tip, more likely to miscue. Also, bigger tip creates optical illusion and it is more difficult to force oneself to go away from the center. Personally, I hater Le Pro, and I usually shoot with Triangle. I also like softer medium tips, I just don't like having to shape them all the time.
 
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Texas Carom Club said:
who has a hard time trying to draw the cueball with a 13mm solid maple shaft? couldnt with my lepro, even worse seemingly with a milkdud, was much harder to cut off even with the razor
i just cant really get much to any draw, end up jumping the cueball more often .

i know a great stroker can do it, but thats not me
do i need to go back to layered tips to help me with that size shaft or????

i have another cue with a 12.5 dia maple shaft, and a hard layered tip that i can draw with ease.
Click to expand...

If a pro can draw with 13mm and we can't - what does that tell you - it's not the arrow, it's the Indian. I say that, because back in the late 90's I purchased a cue with 13mm shaft and couldn't draw worth a crap so I used it for a break cue exclusively. I'm a much better player now and can draw with just about anything but I still can't get the distance with a thick shaft.
 
I believe most of the cues I play with are 13mm, or maybe a 12.75mm, and don't see any issues with draw. What curve are you using on the tip? A nickel curve will be much harder to draw with than a dime.
 
Chili Palmer said:
If a pro can draw with 13mm and we can't - what does that tell you - it's not the arrow, it's the Indian. I say that, because back in the late 90's I purchased a cue with 13mm shaft and couldn't draw worth a crap so I used it for a break cue exclusively. I'm a much better player now and can draw with just about anything but I still can't get the distance with a thick shaft.
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Mostly Tells me I don't have a pro level stroke, which I think we already knew.

But I put a triangle on and viola, I can get an acceptable amount of draw mostly happy to not pop the ball up anymore

I put a big curve shape on it not nickel specifically or anything
 
first get a layered tip that does not glaze over like single layered tips.................. try G2, SIB, Ultra skin, precision.... etc ........ draw is in the stroke........ a customer of mine plays with a 13.2mm tip shaved down to 2 layers and is almost flat on the end.................. if your shaft doesn't draw well........ the problem is your stroke

Kim
 
If y
Texas Carom Club said:
Mostly Tells me I don't have a pro level stroke, which I think we already knew.

But I put a triangle on and viola, I can get an acceptable amount of draw mostly happy to not pop the ball up anymore

I put a big curve shape on it not nickel specifically or anything
Click to expand...
If you get a good one Triangles are one of the best tips out there. My practice cue has an Ivory Ultra Skin and my playing cue has an old Triangle on it.
 
Problems with a shot is allmost always user error.
Some players are better at adjusting themselves to new equipment than others. I have customers asking for the original OB 1 or 2 shafts, Meucci shafts from the 90's and so on, because they simply can't adjust to any other equipment.
I always tell customers to use a new piece of equipment for atleast 20 hours before making up their mind, and to not be tempted to switch back and forth between old and new equipment in that time.
It's the ones that can't tollerate to play below their own expectations for a limited amount of time, that can't switch to new equipment.
Adjusting from 12.5mm to 13mm will take some time, but when you take the time to do so, I expect you will draw just as good with that shaft. What tip you have on, granted it's a good tip with the correct shape, it shouldn't make a world of difference.
 
Kim Bye said:
Problems with a shot is allmost always user error.
Some players are better at adjusting themselves to new equipment than others. I have customers asking for the original OB 1 or 2 shafts, Meucci shafts from the 90's and so on, because they simply can't adjust to any other equipment.
I always tell customers to use a new piece of equipment for atleast 20 hours before making up their mind, and to not be tempted to switch back and forth between old and new equipment in that time.
It's the ones that can't tollerate to play below their own expectations for a limited amount of time, that can't switch to new equipment.
Adjusting from 12.5mm to 13mm will take some time, but when you take the time to do so, I expect you will draw just as good with that shaft. What tip you have on, granted it's a good tip with the correct shape, it shouldn't make a world of difference.
Click to expand...
how much real difference is there between 12.5 and 13 .... as far as playability goes. i think most things are in the mind mostly. i can transition between my jerry r 13mm standard maple shaft to a low deflection 12.75 shaft with relative ease
 
sos911 said:
has to do with stroke more than anything ... i can draw a ball just fine with an open v bridge
Click to expand...
I'm talking more about a lazy closed bridge where there is the possibility of letting the shaft drop during the stroke. But, it's different for everyone.
 
sos911 said:
has to do with stroke more than anything ... i can draw a ball just fine with an open v bridge
Click to expand...
by the way, I was not referring to the ability to draw, I was referring to a reason for popping up the ball, which I suppose effects the ability to draw.
 
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